[CamaroMan469]

I do not know of any off the shelf kits for turbos and 1st Gens. Most of the guys do a lot of fab work. At $50 per hour that can add up real fast.

I would take a look as LS1tech Lot of good info

Forced Induction - LS1TECH

I know my pocket book is in for a world of hurt when it comes to the fab work. I just want to make sure that I can purchase a lot of parts that can eventually work together.

I have been reading up on LS1 Tech and ProTouring forums. Unfortunately, they all hit significant snags with fitment. It also seems like there isn't a "best" option when it comes to our cars.

Thank you for your reply! I've been reading your helpful posts on this forum for years now.

 

[CamaroMan469]

I am not running a turbo, but I am working on my N/A LS swap. Here is what I have found:

The truck intake the should clear but is pretty ugly if nothing else. I would go with an LS6 intake. My FAST 102 clears with about 2.5 inches to the bottom of the factory cowl hood. Google search "20 LS1 intakes tested" for an article by Hot Rod. It has a TON of information on LS intakes that were tested on an NA motor.

I am 95% sure the truck accessory will clear. I believe 67Rally used them on his build thread. F-Body accessories will require frame notching. I went with the Corvette accessory setup which looks better and fits closer to the block. Your intake choice will not dictate your accessory selection.

I have the Holley swap parts and everything fits like a glove. The Holley setup does not use factory mounts and bolts directly to the subframe. It utilizes $10 GM style clamshell mounts.

Holley also has turbo headers listed on their website, but there seems to be an issue with viewing. Verify they are available. I have their Blackheart Stainless headers. I can't say enough about the quality and finish. They are beautiful.

I would do some research on using a large fuel pump with a factory regulator. There have been issues reported where the regulator cannot handle large pumps. Issues seems to be hit or miss, so in order to mitigate my risk, I went with an in-tank Walboro 400 and plan on using an Aeromotive setup.

I thought I read somewhere that the truck accessories will not work with the LS6 intake...I'll have to research that further.

As far as the Holley swap parts are concerned, did you use the following part numbers?: 12618HKR (Swap plates), 71221004HKR (Clamshell Engine Mounts), Energy Suspension 3.1116 (poly mount), 12627HKR (4L80 transmission crossmember)

Did you put in a 4L80E? How was the fitment?

I looked into the Flowtech turbo headers on their website, I wonder if they would save me some fab time as opposed to flipped truck manifolds...They sure would look better...

 

[CamaroMan469]

That pan will not clear a 4" crank. You will need to have a window cut out and welded in to create clearance. There are a few examples online if you search. The 302-1 will, but requires frame notching. Try the ATS or the MAST pan. Both of those will also have outlets for oil for the turbos as well. ATS is built into the pan, MAST has provisions for it.

I think my original 408 claim is incorrect. I plan on using a stock stroke (3.622) Molnar forged crank. Would you still recommend the ATS or Mast pan? I already bought the Holley 302-2, so I was hoping to keep it...

 

[CamaroMan469]

I do not have much personal experience with turbos on LS motors however most of the guys I know pretty much pop them on stock bottom end motors and go for it.

Maybe the money you allocated for the bottom end could be reallocated for other project needs?

I think you are probably right. I was able to get a more accurate estimate for what it would take to do the complete long block...and lets just say, I don't think my 2017 budget will allow to do that in addition to all the other things (fuel delivery, wiring, turbos and fab work, etc.).

I'm thinking the smartest way to go about this would be to put the stock LQ4 into my car, get all of the supporting pieces in place, and run it in semi-stock form until the budget for a long block rebuild will allow it. I'm sure the stock bottom end can support a 5-10 psi boost level no problems. I feel a little better about that due to its low mileage as well (83k).

With that being said, I still need a lot of help/suggestions regarding supporting parts. I am all ears for hearing more suggestions. Thank you all for your continued help!

-James

 

[CamaroMan469]

I've been looking into EFI gas tanks and am considering the Tanks Inc with a Walbro 450lph. I've also recently stumbled upon a Ricks Hot Rod Shop Restomod tank that has 2 Walbro 450lph pumps in tank. It looks like the difference in cost is around $350.

What should I go with? I'm thinking that it's better to be safe than sorry and go with the duals with a Hobbs switch...

 

[CamaroMan469]

I've used the tanks inc setup in my 68 C10 swap and I would not use it again, the Walbro fuel pump was very loud and I had a lot of issues with it leaking. For my Camaro I'm going to use the restormod tank with the Camaro fuel pump.

I've used Tanks Inc Tanks with the in-tank Walbro pumps on at least 6 LS swap 1st and 2nd Gens and never had a single issue with performance or leaking.

How was the noise level of the Walbro Vega$69? I fully expect my exhaust to drown it out.

 

[CamaroMan469]

I ran the 255L pump even with my built LS7. You here it prime when you 1st turn the key for a few seconds. With the car running you never hear it.

I also ran a external on 1 budget build. It was noisier but all externals are.

I think I've decided to go with a Rick's Hot Rod Shop Restomod tank with dual Walbro 400lph pumps.

Aside from the tank, pumps, and sending unit, is there anything else I need to buy? I'm assuming I will need a high-end regulator, rollover vent, and maybe new fuel lines (larger than the stock 3/8" inner diameter)? Do you guys have any recommendations?

 

[CamaroMan469]

If you can get a killer deal for only $350 over a Tanks Inc set up go for it.

Everything I see show the Ricks tank/pumps selling for almost $1000 more then Tanks

Through a dealer of Rick's tanks (that I'm not sure is a sponsor on this forum), I can get a Rick's Restomod tank with dual Walbro 400's with a tube style 0-90 fuel level sender for $995 shipped to my door.

The Tanks Inc setup with the single Walbro 400 was going to be around $700 shipped.

 

[CamaroMan469]

Through a dealer of Rick's tanks (that I'm not sure is a sponsor on this forum), I can get a Rick's Restomod tank with dual Walbro 400's with a tube style 0-90 fuel level sender for $995 shipped to my door.

The Tanks Inc setup with the single Walbro 400 was going to be around $700 shipped.

Please let me know who the dealer is.

The tank with a single pump and no sending unit sells for $1350 on Jegs and Summit.

Unless you're talking about the stamped steel one that's painted black?

I'm sorry for the confusion. I am talking about the stamped steel, black tank. I'm not planning to run E85, so it should be sufficient.

 

[CamaroMan469]

What type/brand of fuel pressure regulator am I going to need running the two Walbro 400's in stages (with a Hobbs switch)? I have heard good things about Weldon and Magnafuel.

 

[CamaroMan469]

I thought the Ricks stamped steel tank Uses either the 5th Gen Camaro pump, ZL1 or CTS-V?

You can have them do a custom build with a billet hat that accepts single or dual Walbro pumps. Its a pretty slick piece.

Check out this link: Bolt In - Rick's Tank's

 

[CamaroMan469]

How is that going to mount tight to the bottom of the trunk?

I don't completely understand your question. That hat slides into the Restomod tank and is bolted down. The tank uses the stock hangers with new, slightly longer, tank straps. Does that make sense? It is a direct replacement tank, with in-tank dual Walbro 400s.

 

[CamaroMan469]

Sounds like you're looking into building a real similar combo as mine. I'm getting my accessories nailed down so I can run A/C, power steering with GM components. I'm still on the fence with twins. I make good power with the S476/4L80E/5.3 in my truck,(~800hp to the wheels) so I'll probably go that route. I also have LS 427 and access to S366 turbos, but it's a little overkill for what I want I want to do.

Finally! Someone with real-world experience!

How is the drive-ability of your truck? Does the S476 spool fast enough to not feel sluggish on the street?

I'm still having an internal battle between going single or twins...

 

[CamaroMan469]

Also, with 80lb injectors, I'm running about 75% duty cycle at 18lbs of boost along with a good dose of straight methanol being sprayed on top of it. I would go with the next size larger. If you ever decide to run E85 or flex fuel, you'll need to factor in even larger injectors(~35% larger). I haven't logged fuel pressure, but I'm guessing the the twin walbro 450's is sufficient for pump gas.

I have been looking into the rest of the fuel delivery setup for my build. One vendor I spoke to recommended going with 120lb or 160lb injectors. The problem was that they were low impedance, so if I was going to run the factory ECU, I would need to run a injector impedance converter box like the Acceleronics VersaFueler. If you were to do it again, would you go with 120lb injectors, 160lb injectors, or something different?

Also, he recommended with my dual staged pumps, I should use the boost referenced Magnafuel MP9950-B fuel pressure regulator. Any suggestions there?

 

[CamaroMan469]

I have been doing some research on the accessory drive relocation brackets available. I want to make sure that the alternator and power steering pump hug the block as much as possible to make room for forward facing turbo headers.

Through my searching, I stumbled across a company called ICT Billet. They make a complete kit (part #: 551565-3, ~$190) that uses the truck alternator, crankshaft pulley, and belt tensioner. I would need to buy an LS1 water pump, LS1 power steering pump, and LS1 power steering pulley. It seems very affordable, but do you think going with the truck pulley spacing will give me problems with clearance in front of the engine for the turbo piping (intake, etc.)?

 

[CamaroMan469]

I may would have went with something like this if I wasn't running A/C. Looks like you won't have to worry about notching the cross member for accessories as long as the belt tensioner clears. I think it will...

As far as spacing...
Corvette pulls the accessories back the furthest, then the F-body, then the truck. Probably around 1-1.5" difference. To be honest, I kind of like the looks of this kit. As long as you don't have your engine sitting too far forward, you'll have enough room for a fan or any turbo piping. I plan to run truck spacing on the accessories and my passenger head sits about 1.25-1.5" inches off the firewall.

I'm not seeing any negatives and it's a lot cheaper route than I went.:thumbsup:

Where are you going to source your power steering pump and pulley from? I need to go ahead and buy those myself...

One of the nice parts about this kit is that if the tensioner hits the crossmember, I could simply cut that part of the tensioner off. It does not appear to be vital.

If I end up buying the water pump and power steering components new, I will probably source them from a local supplier like NAPA or Advance Auto. That would simply be for the piece of mind that if something fails, I should be able to get it replaced quickly, and more than likely under warranty. One less thing to worry about, you know?

It looks like I could get a re-manufactured power steering pump w/reservoir (with a limited lifetime warranty, basically a 1-time replacement down the road) for around $75, and a power steering pulley for around $45. Then, a water pump would be around $140 (with a limited lifetime warranty, basically a 1-time replacement down the road).

So in total, I would be paying ~$450 for all of the accessory drives and brackets, not including a serpentine belt. I don't think that's bad at all.

It also looks like if I swapped to an LS6 intake, all of the accessories would clear just fine. What are your thoughts on that approach?

 

[CamaroMan469]

One of the nice parts about this kit is that if the tensioner hits the crossmember, I could simply cut that part of the tensioner off. It does not appear to be vital.

If I end up buying the water pump and power steering components new, I will probably source them from a local supplier like NAPA or Advance Auto. That would simply be for the piece of mind that if something fails, I should be able to get it replaced quickly, and more than likely under warranty. One less thing to worry about, you know?

It looks like I could get a re-manufactured power steering pump w/reservoir (with a limited lifetime warranty, basically a 1-time replacement down the road) for around $75, and a power steering pulley for around $45. Then, a water pump would be around $140 (with a limited lifetime warranty, basically a 1-time replacement down the road).

So in total, I would be paying ~$450 for all of the accessory drives and brackets, not including a serpentine belt. I don't think that's bad at all.

It also looks like if I swapped to an LS6 intake, all of the accessories would clear just fine. What are your thoughts on that approach?

Yeah, I like the fact that you can buy the parts at the local parts house if something fails. That's the reason I went with a similar route.

What did you pick out for motor mounts? There's a possibility you may need to raise the tranny tunnel for the 4L80E.

I went with the Hooker Engine mounts, swap plates, and 4L80E swap crossmember that works with the Holley 302-2 oil pan.

I read good things about fitment, and am hopeful it will sit low enough to minimize the amount of tunnel modification.

 

[CamaroMan469]

I'm assuming you meant the Holley Motor mounts/plates/ and cross member. Yeah, their stuff is nice. I was going to note that if you used the Holley motor mounts you may not have to modify your tunnel.

Its funny you say that, surprisingly, Hooker is actually owned by Holley. So the ls swap plates and crossmember are Hooker branded parts on Holley's page.

Anyways, yes, those are the ones I bought. I've read that the aforementioned swap components will put the engine a little further forward than other similar setups, so that's why I am concerned about pulley spacing.

I found a great coupon for Advance Auto, so I was hoping to place the order for the water pump and maybe some other odds and ends today...

 

[CamaroMan469]

This list is what the 19257325 kit includes. If you got with the truck offset your part numbers will be different, but you will still need items like a PS fluid reservoir, cap, reservoir bracket, hoses, and bolts. The little items will nickel and dime you. I tried to find a cheap way to buy these parts, but the 325 kit always came back as the cheapest once you add up everything you need to buy. I looked for 2 years on the forums for a used set to pop up, and the almost NEVER do. When they do, guys want 80% of the new cost. I finally got a used set off LS1 tech that included an ATI balancer, but when everything came, the PS pump was a crappy low-flow iron version. I'll use it to get the car running, and then upgrade it down the road with an upgraded one from Turn-one or Lee. I really only bought it for the ATI balancer.


Kit Includes:
•Qty 1 Part #12555222 - Bracket Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
•Qty 1 Part #12578067 - Bracket Generator and Power Steering Pump
•Qty 1 Part #25888970 - Generator
•Qty 1 Part #15261472 - Pump Power Steering
•Qty 1 Part #12568997 - Pulley Power Steering Pump
•Qty 1 Part #12555693 - Brace Power Steering Pump Front
•Qty 1 Part #15907878 - Hose Power Steering Fluid Reservoir With Clamps
•Qty 1 Part #26046502 - Reservoir Power Steering Fluid
•Qty 1 Part #10317982 - Cap-Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
•Qty 1 Part #12569301 - Tensioner Drive Belt
•Qty 1 Part #12568996 - Pulley Belt Idler
•Qty 1 Part #12579229 - Belt Water Pump/Generator/Power Steering Pump
•Qty 2 Part #11515768 - Bolt-10x1.5x40MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 1 Part #11526714 - Bolt-10x1.5x110MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 1 Part #12552922 - Bolt-10x1.5x160MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 3 Part #11516357 - Bolt-10x1.5x75MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 1 Part #11518631 - Bolt-10x1.5x65MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 2 Part #24503609 - Bolt-10x1.5x95MM- 15MM Drive
•Qty 2 Part #11515758 - Bolt-8x1.25x30MM- 12MM Drive
•Qty 2 Part #11516697 - Bolt-8x1.25x85MM- 13MM Drive

Being that my core LQ4 is complete with all accessories, I shouldn't need everything that you mention. I already have an alternator, belt tensioner, crank/balancer pulley, power steering pump cap, and all bolts necessary. The hoses will more than likely need to be custom because of my turbo piping, etc. Not to mention, the kit you are referencing wouldn't give me the clearance I need on the driver's side for the front facing turbo headers/manifolds.

I agree that if I wasn't doing a turbo swap and was keeping everything N/A, then your setup is better for the money. However, I don't think it will work with my future plans.