I apologize if my question seems rudimentary--I am not a body tech, nor have I ever taken the doors off a car before.
I guess better to clarify my question--Do I need to unbolt the hinges, or is there a way to just knock out the pins on the hinge?

You will need to unbolt them because the pins would be impossible to line up. If you could mark the location of the hinge on the door before disassembling, it would be much easier to get it in the ballpark when putting it back together. I would get a helper and a floor jack, before tackling the job.

 

Mask with painters tape as close to the top and back of the hinges.
This would be a good time to evaluate the condition of the pivot bushings, and refurbish the original hinges.
Just a thought 👍🏼

 

How about a knockout punch, like one used by electrician for the door. Then if it can't be use in the door frame maybe you can get in the door structure and drill where the knockout hole is.

Just a thought.

 

Pretty sure you need a pilot hole to use the KOs

 

The area for the wiring is space constrained and the backside is difficult to access ( kick panels would need to be removed to use a knock out …I think.
You might be able to access that area with some tools used in aircraft….if you had them , but if that were the case you probably wouldn’t need my advice.
No offense intended of course.

 

Another option would be a step drill if you can get to it from the front. I’ve used these a lot for wire holes in my 57 Chevy then put a hole grommet.

 

question : what wiring is going into the wiring boots

 

Power windows if I’m guessing.

 

What door conduits are you going with ?. The reason I'm throwing this out is some door conduits require different sized holes on the door versus the cowl side so keep that in mind.

If it is a finished car, once the holes are drilled out or punched, seal the bare metal edges.

If you can go with the large conduits so that what wires you need to run, as well as possibly terminated ends that might plug into things like the door panel window switches, power window motors, power door lock actuators, and such, now fit easily though the conduits and then in the future if more wiring needs to be run, the conduits can handle it.

A set I bought for a 69 Camaro project:

Jim

 

Using stock type conduits:

 

I believe the OP is 100% correct about needing to remove the doors to perform the hole enhancement - regardless of technique. When we were assembling my car my body guy and I were hanging the doors and he asked me 5 or 6 times "are you sure you aren't going to run power windows because it's now or never".

 

Back in the mid 80's I had to remove doors on brand new Caddys to add power antennas to passenger side fender, not simple but mark hinge positions and take your time.
Also be careful if using a hole saw, they can really bite and cause havoc when the teeth first break thru.

 

Added power windows to a 69. You can drill the holes in the doors easily without removing the doors.

Drill the holes in the doors from inside the door and in the jamb with a step bit and angle drill.

 

Is the hole already located with a plug in a '69 door pillar ( I can`t remember ) ?

Added power windows to a 69. You can drill the holes in the doors easily without removing the doors.

Drill the in the doors from inside the door and in the jamb with a step bit and angle drill.

 

Scott Sauron, who restores Camaro's and other cars I guess, offered a very good solution to this problem although I still haven't tried it.

"Mark the doors around the hinges with a sharpie. Install a stud in the upper hinge hole. Remove the door by hand. Use a jack to remove and install if required. I do this by myself with no help. If you are physically incapable then get assistance. I have R&I'd complete noses by my self without damaging paint. I put my leg under a door and adjust elevation and lateral movement. Use a jack if required. Pretty much self explanatory."

I immediately thought about studs with allen heads to make the install/removal easier.

Edit: I don't know what Scott or any other bodyman would charge to pull the doors, drill the holes, and reinstall the doors... but it might be smarter to do that than attempt to do it yourself.

 

On an old episode of Detroit Muscle they drilled 1/8 holes through each hinge before removing the door, then use bit as a dowel locator when reinstalling. Probably more accurate than tape.

 

probably almost as much fun drilling the 1/8 holes in the hinges with the door mounted as it would be drilling the wire grommet - conduit holes . . .

 

I have seen that they drill holes and use spring pins thru the hinges. Use 1/8" spring pins and drill thru while still mounted. Pins can be knocked out by a pin punch when needed. Loosely mount door and then install spring pins for alignment.

 

On Amazon there is a rack that will bolt to a floor jack that will hold the door while it is positioned.
Cost = $120 and was well worth it

 

That's nothing a 90* air drill can't take care of . . .