[JimM]

this is back, good!

losing the "one wheel peel" one way or another has always been on this years list.

No, I did not build this car for drag racing, but yes, it sure is fun, and I could easily get addicted to T&T nights until/unless someone decides I need a cage, that ain't happening.

I can get a free 8.5 housing and used gears, catch is it's for a second gen, so it's an inch too wide and the perches are in the wrong place.

Last one to ponder is I've found that my current rear is 1/2" off center. If I go to a 275 tires, one side will probably rub. How in the heck does one fix that? I assume no matter what rear I put in it will be the same unless I offset the perches a lil?

 

[big gear head]

The bushings in the springs could be worn allowing the rear end to be off center.

 

[JimM]

The bushings in the springs could be worn allowing the rear end to be off center.

The springs and (rubber) bushings and perch pads are 4 or 5 years old, with maybe 12000 miles on them. Once I get the rear out, I'll check em out.

I was getting some wheel hop at the strip too. What do ya think, solid front bushings and poly rears, maybe some slide-a-links or caltracs, and lose the pads and solid mount the leafs to the perches?

hmmm, but this ain't no race car, is it?

 

[RamAirDave]

I remember a while back I had asked you to do a measurement for me. The front of the leaf springs to the rocker drip rail. I'm pretty sure your's were the same on both sides. Even if it isnt anymore, 1/2" is a lot to ask from sliding the spring on the bushing. In the rear of the spring, there really isnt any adjustment there.

Was the car ever hit? Maybe a slight tweak in the rear frame rails?

 

[HarleyD67]

Jim take the 8.5 and get it narrowed with Big Ford ends and keepers. (more brake options than C-clip eliminators) You can build that 8.5 to take anything your going to through at it. Plus then you can line it up the way you want it. (just watch the driveline angles)Poly bushings front and rear . After all it's not a drag car your time is spent on the open road. If you want put Cal-tracks with solid front and poly rear bushings or Comp. J-bars on later. This should still leave enough to get the brakes yet this year. ???

 

[Everett#2390]

Personally, I'd solid mount the springs to the perches. You're not going to feel it. Kind of like solid body bushings.

I installed a 2nd gen rear axle in one of my 1st gen Camaro's and left the width OE. Tire goes out an additional 1/2 inch both sides. The driveshaft was one bought from the salvage yard, larger U-joint, and had it shorten, push into trans all the way, pull it out 1 1/2 inches, measure U-joint to U-joint. Also, since I didn't use the pads, I used alum plate to fill the gap. Also, since not using the pads, and not moving the perches over, only left 1/4 inch per side of misalignment, 3-inch U-bolts took care of the interface, flatten the spring right out and noticed no difference in the ride.

By using this set-up, I was able to use stock axles, transfer the backing plates w/brakes (no tear down), and use the 1st gen E-brake cables without a problem.

I do give the 8.2 rear axle a lot of respect. After 9 years of running with 28X10.5 slick and running with a ring gear spacer, I let her rest after the final hoorah of splitting the carrier.

 

[zdld17]

Jim take the 8.5 and get it narrowed with Big Ford ends and keepers. (more brake options than C-clip eliminators) You can build that 8.5 to take anything your going to through at it. Plus then you can line it up the way you want it. (just watch the driveline angles)Poly bushings front and rear . After all it's not a drag car your time is spent on the open road. If you want put Cal-tracks with solid front and poly rear bushings or Comp. J-bars on later. This should still leave enough to get the brakes yet this year. ???

This makes sense since Jim has a #'s engine so why not the rear? Poly bushing and Koni shocks stopped my wheel hop but then I dont have motor Jim has. I vote for Caltracs also..

 

[JimM]

well, all-righty then. It feels good to have a "direction." Tom D, you out there? When can I swing by and grab that housing and gearset?

Here's another silly thought... The brakes I'm looking at (Wilwood) are available in 2 offsets, 2 3/4" from housing flange to axle flange and 2.81". Which is the "standard measurement"? And if it's the larger one, is using the smaller (plus shorter custom axles) a practical way to make up for some of the "wider-ness" of the second gen rear?

What about perches, and welding them on and setting the pinion angle?
I've seen clamp on purchases, from either DSE or G/W, forget which, what does everyone think of these? They look kinda wimpy to me.... They do suggest welding them, and at least would give me something I could work with myself to get everything right then drive the car to someon who can weld it.

 

[blue ss]

Ya know Jim I never looked at verts as race material, they just arnt built for it.
They twist and flex and its not worth welding in supports for things. Keep it a great looking, reliable, #s macth cruzser. Use the vet you want for some tt races on your way home from work. I would just put 300 into a joint ,yolk,ballance and enjoy. JMO Brian
I understand the need for speed. Try a snowmobile ya cant hurt them.

 

[Everett#2390]

What about perches, and welding them on and setting the pinion angle?.

Find a place with a jig to fasten the housing in. Welding on the tube(s) will sure make the housing un-square.

Have them weld the tubes to the center section and have them triangulate the perch to housing.

Alot work for a convert to go fast, especially if you are not going to install subframe connectors and a roll bar.

 

[JimM]

Find a place with a jig to fasten the housing in. Welding on the tube(s) will sure make the housing un-square.

Have them weld the tubes to the center section and have them triangulate the perch to housing.

Alot work for a convert to go fast, especially if you are not going to install subframe connectors and a roll bar.

hmmm... so I can't just strap it all together, line up the perches, and weld em under the car, eh?

As for the " a lot of work to make a vert go fast..." Well, you're right no doubt.

What I really want is something I "CAN'T" break. 100% reliability. No, it's not a race car, but it is a stick shift car putting 400 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels, with plans to increase that by 100. Plans also include some stickier "street" tires, maybe Nitto 555R's in a 275-40-17? There is always the "chance" that I may be tempted to do another "wind it up and drop the clutch" type of leave, she needs to take it, every time.

She will get SFC's this winter, I'll be posting on that soon. Time and power are taking thier toll. Where I used to brag I could jack my car from any one location and not have the door alignment change, that's no longer true.

A cage, at least to my thinking now, is out of the question, they just look like hell with the top down.

 

[Everett#2390]

hmmm... so I can't just strap it all together, line up the perches, and weld em under the car, eh?

I had similar work done to a housing and did a before and after preload test. I gained another 18 in./lbs. of torque, started with 12, ended up 30. Others here may have had better results.

There is always the "chance" that I may be tempted to do another "wind it up and drop the clutch" type of leave, she needs to take it, every time.

Lots of driveline shock here. Solid engine mount of driver's side? Leave the rest "soft."

She will get SFC's this winter, A cage, at least to my thinking now, is out of the question, they just look like hell with the top down.

Not a cage, an 8-pt bar, one single main loop. Paint it the same color as the interior and it looks like it came factory. The two go together.

After install of everything, have the car four wheel aligned.