Did your brake kit include new spindles? Either way you need to get it aligned again. How far do you have to drive to the alignment shop?

 

X 2

 

Are these stock GM spindles, or ???

As long as the spindle mount points are the same the a-arm position should be the same.
I've done a bunch of conversions over the years - always using GM parts - and never had alignment issues, unless I've also changed springs, arms, shafts (non-standard), spindle or other items ...

One last thing to check for before alignment would be binding in the suspension somewhere - I would 'jounce' the front end a few times and maybe even drive a bit to see if it will settle back on it's own.
As the ride height lowers the tire should tilt back out at the top with standard alignment and parts.

 

Good point. Has the suspension been allowed to settle?

 

Ditto above.

If you lowered the car with a floor jack under the big front crossmember the suspension droops putting a ton of positive camber in it, and the front end end will sit higher than normal. If nothing else is amiss, simply rolling it back and forth a few feet will return it to normal.

Could also be a result of not indexing the spring tails properly in the subframe helix.

 

Mine did a little too after my disc brake conversion but i also installed new lowering coils at the same time. Still it wasnt bad enough that I felt I couldnt drive it to the alignment shop. How about some pix?

 

What name brand conversion kit did you install? I hope It was not an Ebay special.

 

I believe John (Vintage 68) has got it. If the spindles are the same dimensions as factory drum spindles the alignment didn't change if that is all you changed. If you had the upper arms off the car or replaced springs and / or bushings at the same time that would change the alignment.

Jeff

 

Sorry, been away...it is the basic Right Stuff 14 inch wheel kit. I did have the upper arms off the car. I took them off by the two nuts where the adjustment shims go in, did not loosen the bushing part. I put them back on with the shims in same location and torqued to specs.

Did one side up at a time, with jack under control arm. I can't roll car back and forth, in gear and I have the interior gutted, clutch pedals and all removed. E-brake removed so trans only thing keeping it in place (on flat ground). I tried with a little force to put in N but not going and do not want to have problem if I put in N not getting it back in gear. I did bounce up and down on the car with level on tires and the bubble did move a little towards center.

I just re-read everything again and see were John mentioned ride height and weight...I did not realize weight would change tire tilt. I have the entire sheet metal off of the front, fenders, hood, core support, steering box, etc...Perhaps that is it although before I started, with everything off but drums still on there it looked good, but, car had been driven, parked, and not jacked off the ground with sheet metal removed until I started the swap.

I have to have someone weld in new dash before I can put back together so will have to wait but thinking once everything is back on the tilt will look better. There are only two shims on driver side so not much room for adjustment, passenger side has five. Alignment shop is maybe 15 miles away.

It may be awhile but once together I'll update, thanks for all the replies,

Dave

 

Yes that weight will make a difference. After it's all back together take a carpenter's level and check the tire for "plumb" or an angle gauge will work too. If you are very close to zero take a tape measure (and a helper) and check the toe in. You need to be less than a 1/4 inch in to be safe to drive the 15 miles.

Jeff