If you did not break through the color you should be ok to re clear. I would do the whole trunk again. I usually do 3 to 4 clear coats to prevent sand through.

 

At least it was something easy to remove. I'd just take it back off and re-clear it and call it a lesson learned. :thumbsup: No big deal, just a little more work. It'll turn out fine!

 

Thanks guys

 

Be careful, depending on the color, it may show up after as a lighter spot when recleared.

 

spot in base coat and re clear DO NOT TRY TO CLEAR YOUR BURNT THROUGH AREA

 

if you can see you burned through, you have to re-base. wipe some wax grease remover on it, that is what it will look like with clear.

 

So I should spray a little color over them areas and the reclear the whole lid?

 

Depending on how good you are, you can spot in the areas. Well, as i said earlier, it really depends on the color as to the difficulty. If it is a solid color, spotting in is easily done and then reclear. If it is a metallic, people sometimes have a hard time making the spots blend, and usually can end up with a lighter "halo" at their stopping point of their blend. Being that the trunk is a small piece, and you have only some small spots, i would recommend recoating the areas first, then doing a complete recoat of the entire lid, then reclear, just to be safe. You should be able to fix it with minimal paint usage and coats. Most of the time, once again depending on color, you should be able to get away with 1 blend coat over the spots, then an overall coat. So it will have 2 on the spots, 1 on the entire lid. If you are spraying PPG clears you will want to do this, as PPG clear adds a shade of darkness with each coat of clear. Dupont does about a half shade per coat of clear. Just depends...

 

If it is a metallic, people sometimes have a hard time making the spots blend, and usually can end up with a lighter "halo" at their stopping point of their blend. Being that the trunk is a small piece, and you have only some small spots, i would recommend recoating the areas first, then doing a complete recoat of the entire lid, then reclear, just to be safe.

Novices, and even pros can avoid a halo by spraying a wetbed prior to blending metallics. No need to recoat the entire panel. For a novice, the odds of a metallic mismatch when fully recoating are greatly increased.

John, Don't spray the base too wet or lifting may occur. This can be avoided by using BC hardener when initially shooting the car.

 

Ok, thanks. It's a solid yellow with PPG clear.

 

For my own education... what's a "wetbed"?

 

Easiest way to describe it is a clear base, or in waterborne applications referred to as an orientation coat. Basically it gives the areas that are to be blended a "bed" to settle into and cover up repair scratches, and blend more easily into the other metallics. It is a safer, more repeatable repair process. I personally don't do it, but i have a lot of gun time, but should be doing it. :thumbsup:

 

Wetbeds/orientation coats are used primarily for some troublesome basecoats like silvers. golds and lighter metallic colors. I don't use it on many other colors, such as an '04 Ram burgundy I just blended. Here's that Refinish Network I often mention: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I99bFomwZ8I Another one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ll8UfniGabY

 

Gotcha. I'd need paint on my car in order to have to spot, blend and match it. Some day...