How much power needed to rear wheels /flywheel to run 9.70-9.80 ets, at 3000 lbs, on slicks .and what 60 ft would you expect to see / worst 60 ft that would get you there?
How Much Power Needed?
NER perf
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Maybe just my opinion, but I always like the idea of overbuilding. Sure, its been proven both with math and in real life that X amount of power should get you going as fast as youd like to go. My problem is that I want it to be easier yet. Id be building for 650 plus with your goal in mind.....that will help compensate for any variables that you may encounter. Of course, you can keep it on the lower side(power numbers that is), dial the car in just right(drivetrain, chassis, tune......), and in good weather you could knock off some passes that show the number. But again, its just nice to have the cushion. And thats why Id reccomend building for 650 plus. And if that turns out to be more than needed, soften up the tuneup or maybe shift a lil sooner if you need to keep it slower. Than, you can run the number your lookin for without having to keep the tune set on "kill". And of course, if you run into some bad weather or something that slows you down....youve got room left in the tune to wring it out further if necessary to maintain a particular bracket(this isnt as big as a deal if your just having fun).
Its mundee alright...
dont believe much in them chassis dynos because I've seen cars with 500+hp that run 12s (with low mph):sad:
I like to stick my motors on a real dyno, just find one that honest.
Also it may take 50-100 more hp to run that in Colorado, I hear its a 7 tenths diff between houston and there.
dont believe much in them chassis dynos because I've seen cars with 500+hp that run 12s (with low mph):sad:
I like to stick my motors on a real dyno, just find one that honest.
Also it may take 50-100 more hp to run that in Colorado, I hear its a 7 tenths diff between houston and there.
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Maybe I'm not doing something right but it usually takes me about 730 to 750 engine dynoed ponies to see 9.7-9.8 with a 3200 pound car.
Larger Dave
Larger Dave
well im figuring on motor to be making right around 500-525. i think thats conservative, but better safe than sorry up here on the mountain .then on top of that im spraying it with 175 hp of nitrous:clonk: , so i should easily see 650 hp.chassis is almost done and no short cuts were taken, so it should be a wheelie monster like i said old combo with less comp, heavier pistons,crank ,etc, and higher horsepower robbing trans at 3500 lbs went 10.30s up here driving through the converter. so i think just weight and chassis differences should put the car into the nines. but i guess thats why you race em :hurray:
like i said old combo with less comp, heavier pistons,crank ,etc, and higher horsepower robbing trans at 3500 lbs went 10.30s up here driving through the converter. so i think just weight and chassis differences should put the car into the nines. but i guess thats why you race em :hurray:Here we go again . . .
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I agree with Rafal, there are tons of "500 HP" cars out there that run 12's with a low MPH. There are dishonest dynos out there too, so this is a pain to discuss "how much HP" you need to run a given ET.
I would suggest overkilling on power a little too -- personally I would shoot for about 650-675 (honest dyno HP LOL) with plans for a GOOD chassis that hooks.
I agree with Rafal, there are tons of "500 HP" cars out there that run 12's with a low MPH. There are dishonest dynos out there too, so this is a pain to discuss "how much HP" you need to run a given ET.
I would suggest overkilling on power a little too -- personally I would shoot for about 650-675 (honest dyno HP LOL) with plans for a GOOD chassis that hooks.
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Just remember....the earlier you use that spray....the better it works. So, it will take some work, but you gotta prep everything to handle(and stay together) so that you can hopefully spray it as soon as possible in the run.
And I agree...dyno error, vehicle setup, weather, the motor combo in general(not all 600 horsepower motors are equal....the shape of the curve is going to dictate more than just the peak number).....and every other variable you can think of. So, you might have a car showing lower power but running bigger numbers and who knows....the car might be dead on to yank down the big numbers. Then again, the dyno could be wrong. Or, the dyno is also dead on.....but the average dyno just shows higher. Which would be why lots of other cars that run just as fast show more power. Once again...who knows...lots of variables here! Thats why I suggest overbuilding. Reguardless of the dyno numbers or whatever, you can argue with the timeslips, and more than enough power makes it easy to get the timeslips among the variables that can throw stuff off.
And I agree...dyno error, vehicle setup, weather, the motor combo in general(not all 600 horsepower motors are equal....the shape of the curve is going to dictate more than just the peak number).....and every other variable you can think of. So, you might have a car showing lower power but running bigger numbers and who knows....the car might be dead on to yank down the big numbers. Then again, the dyno could be wrong. Or, the dyno is also dead on.....but the average dyno just shows higher. Which would be why lots of other cars that run just as fast show more power. Once again...who knows...lots of variables here! Thats why I suggest overbuilding. Reguardless of the dyno numbers or whatever, you can argue with the timeslips, and more than enough power makes it easy to get the timeslips among the variables that can throw stuff off.
well like i said earlier this is identical combo i ran b4. all i did was fix all the problems i had, like incorrect converter,put in lighter higher comp pistons ,thinner ring pack, lighter rods ,lighter, better trans with correct converter, and dropped 500 lbs .so im pretty confident it'll easily run nines .i'm just curious as to what i may expect is all.
thanks everyone
nick
thanks everyone
nick
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