Team Camaro Tech banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

srode

· Registered
Joined
·
4,735 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'd like to have the flexibility to do some TIG welding and considering getting a multi process welder instead of a stand alone, and selling my Hobart MIG 140 which works great for me. Multi Voltage is a nice to but not necessarily, 110 is a must. Want to be under $1500 for the set up, and was looking at ESAB fabricator 141, ESAB EMP210, and Hobart MultiHandler 200 as options but not closed minded. I don't see any in this price range that are AC/DC TIG but I would probably just go to my Manufactory for that. The ESAB machines have more settings than the Hobart but not sure about reliability, seems Hobart has not reliability complaints. I looked at Everlast too but they have a bit more mixed reviews on reliability. I would prefer just having a single machine from a space standpoint. Any input on multi process vs stand along TIG or recommendations?
 
I would get a dedicated TIG and keep the MIG. Set them both on the same cart.

Don
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I’m certainly no influencer.
I’m partial to analog control….primarily because I have had digital controls fail.
The price of combining CC/CV processes seems high.
[/URL]
Nice machine but for my use that would be hard to justify.

Thoughts on Primeweld 225X TIG? Digital output but seems feature rich for an AC/DC machine at their price point.
 
Nice machine but for my use that would be hard to justify.

Thoughts on Primeweld 225X TIG? Digital output but seems feature rich for an AC/DC machine at their price point.
While a cursory look at the specs didn’t show constant voltage capability it doesn’t fit your combined process requirements….so there’s no MIG
feature….unless I missed it, or they have figured out how to use CC to achieve that.
I find that TIG is more versatile than any other process, but it has its limitations as all do.
Cleanliness is more important than with MIG so there’s that.
What are your goals or objectives?
Do you plan to utilize the AC for non ferrous?
Pulse is a good way to overcome the steep learning curve on thin ( 0.65 and under ) materials.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
The 225 TIG was stepping away from the multi process like Don suggested and just going pure tig and it seemed like it has a good reputation priced very reasonably.

I've done just a bit of TIG welding after a fair amount of practice and coaching from a very experienced welder. Having the ability to work with stainless is an objective. Seems easier to add small bits of little filler to fill small voids / smooth a weld with a TIG too vs a MIG, work with thinner material, no spatter.

I've tried aluminum just playing and that's got a really steep learning curve from my little bit of exposure because of the way it absorbs the heat so quickly and the speed needed it seems, maybe I gave up to quickly though.

So it's probably all ferrous for now. One downside I could see to the primeweld 225 is it's a bit large size wise. But even without the AC being used it has Pulse, HF start, a decent torch with a start button, and a foot pedal.
 
I had a long response, but it was probably over the top.
Aluminum was a challenge because you have to look at the arc area and see the material turn glossy , instead of the color change with other materials.
Yes the thermal conductivity will make small low mass parts a challenge since they will distribute most of the start energy then make the weld area more difficult to keep in the desired temperature for a reasonable travel speed…..but it comes with experience.
It took me a year to be able to run a successful X-ray one aluminum. 🤷
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I had a long response, but it was probably over the top.
Aluminum was a challenge because you have to look at the arc area and see the material turn glossy , instead of the color change with other materials.
Yes the thermal conductivity will make small low mass parts a challenge since they will distribute most of the start energy then make the weld area more difficult to keep in the desired temperature for a reasonable travel speed…..but it comes with experience.
It took me a year to be able to run a successful X-ray one aluminum. 🤷
your long responses are always appreciated, not over the top at all I'm sure. Lots of folks including me appreciate your knowledge.
 
your long responses are always appreciated, not over the top at all I'm sure. Lots of folks including me appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks Steve 👍🏼
I need to look at my rod inventories, to see if there’s enough to send you some stuff to play with.
I think I’ve got more 5356 and 4043 in boxes than I will ever use..most of the 70s2 is so dirty and surface rusted it’s hard to use.
Maybe Stephen ( did I spell that right?) or Ben will be interested in learning the process.

I was told as a very young man that I would need to learn to run a lathe, a mill and learn to “ Heliarc”
because I tore up so much stuff, and that he was not going to fix my f ups!
My Dad helped me by not doing it for me 👍🏼
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Thanks Steve 👍🏼
I need to look at my rod inventories, to see if there’s enough to send you some stuff to play with.
I think I’ve got more 5356 and 4043 in boxes than I will ever use..most of the 70s2 is so dirty and surface rusted it’s hard to use.
Maybe Stephen ( did I spell that right?) or Ben will be interested in learning the process.

I was told as a very young man that I would need to learn to run a lathe, a mill and learn to “ Heliarc”
because I tore up so much stuff, and that he was not going to fix my f ups!
My Dad helped me by not doing it for me 👍🏼
I would get a kick out of teaching them for sure and I think they would enjoy it. Argon tank is on order, just need to get it filled and decide what Tig I'm going to get. I'll probably go with AC/DC and grown into it.

I'm all about teaching these boys to fix stuff too. Friday the Jeep Stephen drives quit starting due to the wire connection to the solenoid that get's corroded and it's a pain to get to and clean up to fix. I did it last time for him but this time I insisted he do it (with a little help and supervision). We put dielectric grease on it, hopefully he doesn't need to do it again.
 
Interesting post. I assume you want to weld your stainless exhaust tubes.

There sure are a lot of knobs on the first welder. I assume the second one has just as many virtual knobs inside the LCD display. I have a hard time with just two knobs on my little Lincoln 180C Mig welder.

My little welder gas solenoid broke. I found the part on E-bay and replaced it. Check to see if spare parts are available before spending ~ $1000.00. Now days spare parts are sometimes hard to find.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Interesting post. I assume you want to weld your stainless exhaust tubes.

There sure are a lot of knobs on the first welder. I assume the second one has just as many virtual knobs inside the LCD display. I have a hard time with just two knobs on my little Lincoln 180C Mig welder.

My little welder gas solenoid broke. I found the part on E-bay and replaced it. Check to see if spare parts are available before spending ~ $1000.00. Now days spare parts are sometimes hard to find.
Yep, stainless exhaust and likely some aluminum parts if I get the confidence. The Alpha tig you put in metal type and thickness and tungsten information and it has recommended setting predialed in for the user or they can be manually set. Miller has an online computer I could use too instead with the Primeweld that probably does the same. I've done a bunch of reading on all the settings, enough to be dangerous I'm sure!

I need to set up something to back purge the stainless exhaust of course, having one tank and two outputs would be ideal.
 
I bought 3” 0.065 304 Stainless off EBay. I know it’s probably PRC material, but I couldn’t find any locally that wasn’t, and it was probably the same material just marked up.
308 or 308L filler.
400 series is popular and less expensive being ferritic, but more difficult to dress or polish.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts