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new 200r4 won't upshift! :(

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13K views 18 replies 7 participants last post by  Brian Lewis  
#1 ·
FINALLY got the car ready to drive, it's been a looong road! Was taken off the road in 2005 because the powerglide lost high gear. Now with a newly rebuilt 200r4 I took it for a test ride, and it only has 1st! AGAIN! What is it with this frickin car! Jinx is an apt name, it won't give me a break!

I set up the TV to the correct specifications and arcs (my own design though) and set it at WOT against the stop as procedure.

Trans guy said the pressures should be this:

50-80 in gear, 140-190 in low or reverse. Pressure goes up with more RPM.

actual pressures:
With 8 qts of fluid pressure was 60, when I finished topping it off, it was 130. Stayed at 130 in all gears except for reverse, it was 250. Pressure did not go up when accelerating.

Called the trans guy for advice, waiting on a call back.

Just went up and down the culdesac, never breaking 30 mph, but it should have upshifted to 2nd at least.

Pulled the TV cable off the carb at idle and pressure stayed at 130. Any other tests I can do?

I think the TV cable is not pulled out enough at idle, so trans thinks throttle is still barely open.

Opinions?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
Could the problem be a sticking TV valve?

VERY LATE POST - but for the archives & those searching for solutions:

The problem is a sticking TV Valve - typically caused by debris/dirt. Unbelievably simple fix.

Start car, have someone put into reverse and hold brake.

Whiole running, remove TV connector from Carb and pull TV cable in-out about 2 dozen times in fairly rapidly succession. Reconnect cable, go for test drive.

That will typically free it up. May have to repeat.

I got this tip from BowTie Overdrives and worked perfectly on my car having the exact same issue. Took 30 seconds to fix.
 
#7 ·
Yes, especially if the transmission sat for a little while before installation. You can sometimes free them up by pulling the TV cable all the way out and releasing it a few times with the engine running. If it upshifts at WOT it's likely that the governor spring is ok, if it won't upshift WOT or part throttle you have to dig a little deeper.
 
#3 ·
OK, got the call back and probably a sticking TV valve (trans has been sitting dry for a while!). Going to do the un-stick procedure (but with car off) Friday night (working long hours tomorrow) and give it another test drive then. Fingers will be crossed! :)
 
#6 ·
#8 ·
OK, went for a test drive after yanking on the tv cable a bunch of times. Pressure was normal at startup and the trans shifted fine! Feels good to be driving it again :hurray:

Pressures: Park 70, rev 115, drive 70, 2nd 135 Erratic, 1st 135 E

Drove it around and shifted through the gears + overdrive fine. upshifts felt different, sometimes soft, other times I could feel them (but not hard at all). This was a stock rebuild and stock converter.

Don't have the speedo in yet, but around 55-60, rpms were in the 1500-1600 range, pressures were in the 130 range :D

I did have an issue where the pressure stayed at 130 when I stopped once. Opened the hood and yanked on the cable a couple of times and the pressure settled back down to 70.

I think I still need to drive this more and break in the trans (it was about a year since rebuild).

I am stoked! Now to install the interior and all the little details. :)
 
#10 ·
I think the TV cable might need to be adjusted a little when you say soft. Pull it out a click or two. Drive it around as you have been to help free it up from sitting. The more you adjust the cable out the shifts will be firmer and at higher rpm. Adjust it in and the shifts soften. You just have to play with them a little to get it where you want it. I had the same issue with shifts when I first installed and adjusted my 700R4.
 
#11 ·
Thanks Bill.

Ted, after doing a little reading on BTO, I think you are right (Sort Spring Syndrome matches, got the stack shifts and no downshifts unless REALLY pressing!). They said the pressure needs to increase with a slight push on the accel, it does not move unless really hard pressing. I will do some more adjusting this afternoon.
 
#12 ·
Ok, life got in the way of my afternoon :) After a few days of the trans soaking in ATF, tightened up the TV cable just a little bit, so I now see a pressure rise the second I give it some throttle. Went for a test drive and the trans is working very well, I feel the upshifts smoothly, downshifts easily and seamlessly. Up shifts are in the right place depending on throttle position. Still have a part throttle ping that I have to tweak, but other that that it is running well! A 200r4 is a nice trans! Thanks Bill!
 
#14 ·
Bill, You know, I want to make all purty before I show it off :D One more thing though, I cannot tell if it is locking up. My tach is small and wobbly, so I can't tell if there is an RPM drop. Is there another way to check it?
 
#16 ·
Bill's, its BTO's kit, through the brake switch http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=341

But there is only 1 red wire for the lockup in 4th. The pic shows a blue wire for 3rd, But I did not get it. Tonight I will make sure I am getting 12v on the wire before the trans and the trans has a good ground. Two tests I thought of was to wire a bulb in series and see if it lights in 4th and to run up to 4th with it disconnected and at a steady RPM, plug it back in and see if it drops.

Hopefully I can finish the tuneup tonight and try those tests.
 
#19 ·
At cruise (45-70mph) you should feel the lockup, on my 2400 stall 200-4R my rpm gauge changes about 100-150 rpms and I can feel the changeover between lockup and nonlockup. I wired mine thru brake switch, manual switch, and then vacuum switch so that I can toggle it off until I get on the freeway and so that the vacuum kills the lockup when vacuum drops. So just cruise, tap the break very slightly with the left foot and you should feel the rpm increase slightly, let off light tap and you should feel it drop back.