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Discussion starter · #121 ·
Discussion starter · #125 ·
Great Vega!
I've been buying from hawksmotorsport before.
I'll ask my local US part shop to be part of the next parts grouping.

Maybe you think about other parts from the shifter I might need?
I don't see anything broken...
I wonder what is that loose part I found...
 
Discussion starter · #127 ·
Well looking at the schematic I am not so sure it is the right spring.
But I could call this shop.
I am also in contact with Texas Drivetrain Performance where I bought the transmission from.

Vega I don't see anything else broken no. There is a retainer inside the housing that holds the rubber seal boot. Looks good in place I didn't remove that.
 
Discussion starter · #129 ·
Vega, is it a stock shifter?
I though it was a stock Hurst one...

Also, I made a mistake earlier today, there is no broken spring clip or so, I din't see, but it this is this part, and there are 2 such metal rings :
Image


And I looked again inside the housing, and all is clean no debris, no broken things.
The rubber seal can be slide out but I don't see the need.
Apart frop the boot there is nothing else to disassemble.

Marc
 
Looks like time for a new shifter. I would probably buy a Hurst and live with it after that.
 
Discussion starter · #131 ·
Vega recommend to reuse, Rp930 you mention to change for a new hurst... why?

Are these clips I show you in thread #129 from a broken part? I have 2 of them, were from these places.
 
Looks like time for a new shifter. I would probably buy a Hurst and live with it after that.
This looks like a piece of a broken spring? If not what is it?
Image


and this broken piece is from?



Image

After seeing this I’m back to you needing a new shifter.
 
Vega recommend to reuse, Rp930 you mention to change for a new hurst... why?

Are these clips I show you in thread #129 from a broken part? I have 2 of them, were from these places.
That broken piece looks like part of the housing to me.
 
Discussion starter · #134 ·
Well strangely I first got one such broken part in hand and yes I though this is a broken piece... Then I saw another one similar on the rubber as the picture shows and found as I have 2 this is not broken?

But on the picture it is bigger, and indeed it is a broken part... Now we see distinctively. I just looked again in real there are sharp on the edges like broken.

But the housing is clean...

OK for a go for a new shifter.

Which one?

The Hurst billet is expansive and sold with handle and knob I don't need that.
MGW is not the same connection for the handle bar. I have a Hurst handle bar and hurst boot (no console) with square hole.
 
Discussion starter · #135 · (Edited)
maybe this

but it is more $$ than MGW / Tick

Well I looked at my previous thread and I think I'll take one of these 2 , both are good for the hurst stick:


F-Body Style Universal T56 Shifter | Tick Performance

Hurst Billet Plus Manual Shifter for 1993-2002 Camaro & Firebird LS1 T56, Part #3915060 - Tick Performance, Inc.

Which one is best silent?

Eventually plastic or bronze insulator cup?
 
maybe this

but it is more $$ than MGW / Tick

Well I looked at my previous thread and I think I'll take one of these 2 , both are good for the hurst stick:


F-Body Style Universal T56 Shifter | Tick Performance

Hurst Billet Plus Manual Shifter for 1993-2002 Camaro & Firebird LS1 T56, Part #3915060 - Tick Performance, Inc.

Which one is best silent?

Eventually plastic or bronze insulator cup?
I like the shift stops on the Hurst. I still think bronze will just make it worse.
 
Marc

your shifter is the stock one. Not sure if Tremac used "Hurst" but if so...its a low end one, IMHO not worth "repairing". I mentioned I took my brand new "stock" T56 shifter off (never used it) when I did my T56 swap and used the Hurst Pro Billet. I sold it for $50...maybe someone on ebay is selling a used one??

The Hurst Pro Billet I posted in #109 is a good shifter. I have it. Very precise. Just put your Shift handle on that bar or use your shifter bar if you want. Summit, Jegs, etc will have it maybe cheaper than Hawks. Try Amazon also

Its for 94-97 T56 if that is what you have. Or get the Pro Billet one for your year T56
 
Discussion starter · #138 ·
Hey guys,

Just found out an interesting thread on the same issue I have.
If you hear the video it is exactly the same rattle noise I have.
T56 Magnum Shifter Rattle - Only under high torque, not speed-related w/video (pro-touring.com)

BUT the guy has no solution.
Tremec answers : "The noise you are experiencing is a rattle in the connection between the ball end of the shifter and the shifter rail."

I really want to be sure the Hurst billet shifter will not rattle like that again...
 
The OEM Shifter Isolator Cup is a composite material to isolate metal to metal sound transfer. That's why it's called an Isolator. Going metal to metal may yield more positive and firmer shifts but may tend to rattle more then OEM. The adjustable stops on the short throw performance shifters stop the over travel on aggressive shifting. However it does it using metal to metal contact which may also cause rattles.

Depending on how you intend to drive a new OEM and Isolator Cup may be the best choice.
 
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