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"Power Brute" super t-10 question

15K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  pdq67  
#1 ·
I just made a deal to aquire an authentic GM aftermarket "Power Brute" super t-10 trans. First of all, yes it should certainly be a REAL one. It still has the AS9-T10Y tag attached to the tranny which is only for a the true aftermarket version of the super t-10 with a 2.88 first, 1.74 second ratios. It has of course the 904 iron main case and iron midplate. All Power Brute trannies came with the high nickel gears from what I've read. My first question is whether any of the rest of the internals are specific to the Power Brute version besides the gears (and main case and midplate).
My second question is whether there are any recommendations for improvements to this trans since it will be coming apart and refreshened. It will be going in a 3.0 rear geared 3500lb car with a fresh 433 cubic inch motor with fully ported heads and a cam that leans heavily towards low end grunt. The car is to be a regular driver/road trip capable convertible with 500+ ft/lb of grunt that will see track time and general lead footed behavior from time to time:yes:. I'm a big fan of making things as bullitproof as reasonable(why I've searched for the power brute), especially in the driveline department. The rear will be getting a fresh posi and custom Moser axles and a custom driveshaft with strong yokes so that should take care of that end. The motor will be set up for stump pulling to 5500, so no 7000rpm 2-3 shift worries here. The rpm chip will probably be a 6000. The car will never run slicks, but 275-50-15 MT drag radials are a possibility.

Any suggestions or recommendations?

George
 
#2 ·
Call Brian at S-K Speed out of Lindenhurst, New York (631) 957-9427.

http://www.skspeed.com/aboutsk/transshop/default.asp

He specializes in building manual tranny's for street / strip type cars and is very knowledgable about the Super T-10. I had him build me a Super T-10 (basicly the same as you have) with a nodular iron case and a nodular iron mid-bearing plate along with 9310 Nickel gears, 2.64 / 1.75 / 1.33 /1.00 ratios, and customized syncro's. He claims that this tranny is the "strongest" OEM type transmission for a street/strip GM car.

Have had it for about 10 years, no problems. He really knows his stuff when it comes to manual transmissions.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for the thoughts...funny you mention Brian at S-K speed, I had spoken to him a few months back while I was actively "in the market". Man that guy sure seems to know his stuff. I'm glad to hear that your tranny has been working well for you. I'm pretty sure that the gears/shafts, etc are in excellent shape so little more than a refreshening is necessary. I have a drag racing buddy that is well versed in these super t-10s that owes me a favor or two. But if anything major should be done, I may well take the 1 1/2 hour road trip to take my "brute" to Brian and have him do it up for me.

George
 
#7 ·
Sounds about right to me. For that very reason I stresed over the decision to use a 2.88 first, 1.74 second trans instead of something "closer" of a ratio such as a 2.43 first unit(which I already have). My stubborn determination to run a 3.0 rear gear lead me to the Y ratio 2.88 trans for a bit extra grunt with a larger first gear/rear gear total ratio. That is why I went for the strongest version of the super t-10 that was made in the "high" 2.88 ratio. Finding a true GM aftermarket "Power Brute" T-10 with the iron case, iron midplate, High nickel gears, etc helped make my decision easier. I'm just trying to figure out whether any further modifications should be done to it while it is apart for an inspection and refreshening. I'll be looking at roughly 500ft/lbs starting pretty low on the rpm scale and I want to bullitproof it as much as I can without lessening it's good natural "road manners".

George