[68camaroz28]

I cleaned the floor pan plugs with a high speed wire brush and there is no stamping on any of them. And no response to my question at the CRG site.
The latest picture after cleaning.

All of the timing cover bolts were the same supplier while the two fuel pump cover (same size) bolts were the same supplier but different from the timing cover bolts. [SIZE]

Started to prepare the leaf springs for restoration and noticed all of those plastic small liners are still in place but more importantly I never knew some of the springs have an embossed GMC stamping. Both sides had the main leaf identified but one side had two other leafs with the ident.

 

[68camaroz28]

Spent many hours today preparing the radiator for paint and cleaning the orig. radiator tag. We also have the correct petcock if you notice the wrong one currently in the radiator. This is a Harrison I purchased from Heartbeat.
Another little surprise today! I must have looked at that radiator tag over the years 25 times and never noticed a a stamping at the bottom. Really could not see it until I started to clean. I guess it was a way of Harrison identifying the radiator in case of warranty issues but again, its a guess. Anyone know for sure? The number is "3010178 8"

 

[anickel-67cpe]

don,t know about the #'s but I bet the last 8 has something to do with the year LOL..

 

[68camaroz28]

Been busy working on both front and rear suspension items getting them ready for the sub-frame build up and for re-installing the 12 bolt. First up the idler arm, identified with "15 GMT 3917581 A" which I wanted to restore due to the evident part#. Here are a few pictures before and then after. Several hours on this alone :yes:

The lip & cup seal off the idler arm. Lip seal (flat type seal) has part #5693027 (visible when installed) and the cup seal has part #5678350 inside the cup (not visible when installed)

Completed Idler Arm

 

[68camaroz28]

Wanted to take the forward leaf spring eye out, the one that has a metal sleeve with rubber and a center metal tube. Yikes! Dang Nabit! Pressed the center tube and rubber out of both spings and that was not easy but the large metal sleeve stayed fast and did not budge. Tried to press it out but it just mushroomed. Ended up soaking with some PB Blaster and using my air chisel. It came out but not without a fight.

When I started to take the 4 leafs apart I noticed that the one clamp that is riveted to the leaf was opened somewhat and then noticed the reason, it was fatiged and cracked. As it turns out as soon as you pry on those rascals they crack in the corner.

Interesting that all the leaf plastic spacers were all still in place. Inside shows part #3848682. Called my Chevy Dealership friends and they checked to see if that part # or a later version was still available but they could not find anything.

I then pulled the 68/69 Z/28 4 leaf spring rebuild kit and had a few laughs. First off there is this big note that tells you to cut off the large nib on the supplied plastic spacers and glue them in place, but other than that they are exact. Here is repro beside one of the originals. You be the judge to how exact it is.:

And some comparison of the leaf clamp supplied and rivet compared to the originals. Close but some filing, radiusing, taking turn marks off the rivets, etc. will be needed to give it a more orig. look.

 

[anickel-67cpe]

Chick, what did you use to clean that idler? That thing looks brand new!

 

[68camaroz28]

Chick, what did you use to clean that idler? That thing looks brand new!

Hi Andy! Started out on the Idler Arm's arm that bolts to the frame after a good simple green full strength bath. Used a 3M metal prep pad to start cleaning the surface rust off and then brushed on CLR for a minute or so and then wiped off. Then started the process again, and again, and again. But you do have to be somewhat careful or you start to lose that dark finish in that area. Followed that up with the same thing on the remainder of the assembly but also used a high speed wire brush. In process picture and it is a slow process.

The arm of the idler arm is virgin (no paint/nothing other than gun oil) but the remainder of the arm was shot epoxy primer and follow up with cast blast but a thin coating. There is just no way I could come up with having it look correct. But before paint I cleaned the end caps with the 3M pad, 0000 steel wool, and my dremel. Then of course taped off. Nothing difficult but I did spend quite a few hours on just that one piece.
Note: Another thing I did prior to paint was purge it twice with my grease gun with the rubber seals off. Then wiped the grease off and cleaned it overall with wax and grease remover serveral times. Point is, its greased and ready to go.

 

[68camaroz28]

Yesterday I completed preparing the drag link for restoration but after completion of the initial cleaning (grime and grease) time was spent just looking at it. It had a very different look than other parts and due to being a type of forging it just had the look of an old rifle or firearm. Decided at that very moment that no type of paint was going to see this piece but it was important not to disturb the orig. texture so no media blasting of any kind, just the 3M and wire brush treatment. Also used CLR to assist originally but after a complete wire brushing of the entire surface it was treated with the Naval Jelly. Then back again for a complete wire brushing. Must have used wax and grease remover 5 or 6 times wiping it completely clean. Then I brought it into the house and placed it at a heat register. This morning the what turned out to be one of the easiest tasks undertaken started, the bluing. Yep, used gun bluing paste and rubbed it down three times. Amazing how it gave its natural color back and to me looks more original than any others I have had the pleasure to observe. It took all but an hour and it was done. Just rub on, let sit for 30-60 seconds, and wipe off. Completed each coating in three sections, each of the ends, and the center. After each coating you wipe clean, wash, and then 0000 fine steel wool treatment. Then back for another coating. After completed I just had a big fat on my face. Not sure if anyone tried this but after the fact I completed some searches and only found the very old one below suggest it and his comment was dead on. I only went into detail on this in case anyone wants to try. Its just too easy and again looks real. Yes, you will have to oil every once in awhile. Coated it after the bluing process with Remington Oil. What you think?
The Camaro.net link read after the fact.
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=30145&highlight=bluing
This is really hard to appreciate but a picture before restoration.

Now after the bluing was completed. Should have taken a picture after wire brushing as it had a dirty quarter look.

 

[Sauron67MM]

I've been cold bluing parts for years. It's easy like you said. I use it in other applications besides auto and firearms, primarily metal artwork. It produces a nice finish.

 

[anickel-67cpe]

Very nice job on the center link. Dad used to blue guns years ago, never would have thought.

 

[6781camaro]

I was interested in this process and found a cool informative YT video on the process. (he cracked me up when he said "nice blue job" though.l

 

[Garfields Maro]

....sorry, too polished/shiney....certainly didn't leave the factory lookin like that.

 

[68camaroz28]

....sorry, too polished/shiney....certainly didn't leave the factory lookin like that.

I agree (change your name ) but that shine can be dialed down. Some of it is due to the oil but the steel wool gives it some shine. No steel wool after a coating and it stays more dull which I'm probably going to do. They did not leave the factory with a consistent cast blast look either did they?

Scott, what other automotive parts have you used this process on?

 

[68camaroz28]

Going through parts for that sub-frame build and was looking at the orig. upper A-arm rubber bumpers #384220 compared to reproduction bumpers. The repro is totally different than the original. The originals look pretty good so they got a good cleaning and will be placed back in use. The 3rd picture you can check the orig. to the repro.

Several weeks ago I was checking on having the back of our rear view mirror re-silvered. Guess the ol' Windex or some glass cleaner got in there as the mirror had some of those black ugly stain marks. Some suggested getting the mirror glass from Paragon which I did. The size/configuration is exactly the same as the original but the thickness is different. Not suggesting this as a problem but just worth noting. The glass has a taper to it (for day/night function) and the thick end on the original is .224" compared to the Paragon piece of only .171". The opposite thin side on the orig. is .118" compared to .083". My concern if any would be how it will fit, i.e. too loose. Orig. piece is on the bottom.

 

[69z28freak]

Hey Chick, where did you find all of the littel rubber parts and bumpers and stuff. I need a full kit for my car. Aftermarket looks a bit sketchy. Any advice?

Thanks

 

[Garfields Maro]

I agree (change your name ) but that shine can be dialed down. Some of it is due to the oil but the steel wool gives it some shine. No steel wool after a coating and it stays more dull which I'm probably going to do. They did not leave the factory with a consistent cast blast look either did they?

Scott, what other automotive parts have you used this process on?

Yeah, I noticed the drag link did have a different look to it. Not a concours resto, no intentions of having some judges give it an inspection, so it got cast blast like the rest of the steering linkage. I did recently re-do tie rod sleeves and clamps for some added detail.

imo, wire wheeling can/does alter the surface texture to some degree, maybe more so than blasting. I does give it a polishing effect. Not sure what would be best in this situation, but lots of different blasting media available right down to walnut shells....plus with a reduced air presure, I don't believe there would be any concern of altering the texture.

I know alot of folks claim clear coating over bare metal won't hold up. I'd say not all CC are created equal. I've used Eastwoods various clears designed especially for bare metal and have had good results. Honestly, I don't recall any failures.

Just offerring another point of view Chick. I admire what you're doing here with a very special car.:hurray: Outstanding !!:thumbsup:

how 'bout Garbonzo ????

 

[68camaroz28]

Hey Chick, where did you find all of the littel rubber parts and bumpers and stuff. I need a full kit for my car. Aftermarket looks a bit sketchy. Any advice?

Thanks

Mike, hard for me to give you advice as I have really not had to look for any of the pieces since I had them from the 80's. Now take that a-arm bumper, the only reason the form with the part # on it is important to me is my goal of putting the car back to as close to orig. as possible within some normal common $$ sense. Other than that, who cares! If its a nice driver, resto-mod, custom, etc. having the absolutely correct bumper is not important unless its available at a reasonable cost. What I can suggest is make sure you do get the correct size bumpers for the trunk lid and doors for fit up reasons. Check GM as some of the bumpers (door) I believe are still available. And if you do have a difficult time with one here or there let me know as I do have extras.

Yeah, I noticed the drag link did have a different look to it. Not a concours resto, no intentions of having some judges give it an inspection, so it got cast blast like the rest of the steering linkage. I did recently re-do tie rod sleeves and clamps for some added detail.

imo, wire wheeling can/does alter the surface texture to some degree, maybe more so than blasting. I does give it a polishing effect. Not sure what would be best in this situation, but lots of different blasting media available right down to walnut shells....plus with a reduced air presure, I don't believe there would be any concern of altering the texture.

I know alot of folks claim clear coating over bare metal won't hold up. I'd say not all CC are created equal. I've used Eastwoods various clears designed especially for bare metal and have had good results. Honestly, I don't recall any failures.

Just offerring another point of view Chick. I admire what you're doing here with a very special car.:hurray: Outstanding !!:thumbsup:

how 'bout Garbonzo ????

Hey Garth, as always you have some good suggestions. If you lived closer I'd have you over, give you a beer and put ya to work. :beers: Agree there are some media that could be used to blast that would not harm the surface like the walnut shells even though I have not used them (have but still in the box). Maybe better stated that caution should be advised on something like this. The wire brush I use is a soft one compared to that drag link and anyone anytime has to be cautious of what one is doing to the substrate surface during any process. I used the satin clear lacquer on many parts over the years but usually gave them the ready prep (name escapes me-that Por-15 product to take off rust and gives a phosphate coating prior to paint?) first but now I'm doing the mang. phosphate process which is another easy thing. More on that later!

 

[firstgenaddict]

Chick... the idler arm mounting which has the two bolts through it going into the frame appeared on my original to be heat treated "blued" as well, Here is a photo of my RESTORED one.

 

[firstgenaddict]

Another photo

Photo showing difference in Original VS Repro door Bumpers

REPRO IN CENTER

REPRO IS SMALLER

 

[firstgenaddict]

The CORRECT plastic Spring insulators are available from EATON DIRECTLY.