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Drag Fabricator

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
This one is of my welding on one of the floor plates, I'm not finished with it, as i need to add some gusset plates on the sides and make a full perimeter weld.
My dad will be doing all of the joint to joint welds on the 4130, as he has been welding 30yrs longer then myself.

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Here's a shot of the fit-up on one of my tubing joints, took a little while, but i feel its absolutely nessecary to have a nice fit up for a nice weld

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
thanks Matt!

Had S&W bend up the main hoop, and the rear bars, However i needed to do my own bends on the rear bars to make them right.
All the cutting/notching and fitting is my work they werent very close on the rear bars, but the main hoop wasnt too bad.

The door bars will be entirely my work, and the reason for not buying a "kit" per say, is that they dont go to minimum specs on the tubing sizes (for crossbars and SFC gussets), nore would they make the special features that i wanted.
By having them bend the main hoop Only, i've now ordered all the tubes that will work around the NHRA minimum specs, as well i have a few other gussets, tubes and crossbraces that i want to include.

the floor plates are all my work, bending,fitting and shearing.
 
#7 ·
Brian,

It troubles me that you say "min. spec's" which, i assume" is for wall thickness and weight considerations.

I'm troubled b/c if they sonic check your work and you are on the min. for thickness AND their sonic checker isn't callibrated right-on, you may turn out PER them of being under spec'ed????

HOPE this doesn't happen????

Just thinking out loud....

pdq67
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
yes, they're legal. Quite of few of my fellow racers have the rear bars done like this, as well i looked through the book to find out if its legal.

Paul, when i say minimum specs, i mean the tubing diameters for the crossbars and SFC gussets. The thickness is spec for 4130 and will pass.
thank's onovakind!

For the readers, its a good idea to contact the NHRA or research the book before building anything to make sure everything you do is legal. Dont go by what others say is legal check with the source.
 
#13 ·
Brian,
I see you are keeping your back seat, correct? Are you going to run a crossbar (back brace)? If not do you remember what the rules are for that? I know any car that has "racing" seats must have a back brace and the seat must be attached to it. I just got back from ordering my cage and was discussing this with the place I ordered it from. I will be keeping the back seat as well and I wanted to run a removeable back brace (don't like the idea of a bar in my kids face). I plan on running factory bucket seats so, I really don't need a back brace to upport the seat (unless the rules have changed since I last looked). I was told that some techs wont pass you if it is removable on any car that is sub 12's. I figured since you were just in the rule book you might know off hand. I have to look up a few things myself, I have some ideas and I want to make sure they are legal. If you are not running a back brace where do you plan to attach your seat belts? (floor mounts?).

Good work by the way.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Royce,
Keeping the rear seat, definetly. I will be running a crossbar, they're required, and an integral peice of the roll bar, without the crossbar a roll can crush the bar across the width.
As well i'll be adding SFC gussets, and a few other ideas i have. My back seats wont be accessable, i'm questioning how removable they will be as well. LOL.

the seats must have a back brace, even so my seat belts will be mounted on a seperate tab on the crossbar. the lap portion of the belt bolts into the floor.
I dont see how adding a brace to the back of a stock seat will do much, however i'll investigate on building a round tube support that works with the frame of the seat.

i dont see anything about a removable cross brace, i dont think its legal, but call a local track or the NHRA and find out for certain.

email me at Speedygoomba@yahoo.com i have some more information about the crossbrace, and a website you can check out for some more info.

thanks for the compliments!
 
#17 ·
Hey Brian,
Looks good. Haven't talk to you for a while. How ya been? I just added the front support bars to my cage and the only reason for doing it now was that my big block broke and now a new one is in the making.
Don't forget to put a plate between the head liner and roll bar when you do the finish weld. You don't want to mess up that head liner, but you probably already have that covered, huh?
See ya
Bruce
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Discussion starter · #18 ·
thanks Bruce,
been pretty good.
Definetly will use a plate, that plan is to make one out of two peices of sheet aluminum and cardboard in the middle as an insulator.

your car looks very nice, coming along nicely!
 
#19 ·
Looks good! the only thing I would have to say is that, by the looks of where the rear bars are placed, any type of minitubbing or so forth won't be possible. Also If you are tigging it, only a little bit of cardboard should be needed, since tig doesnt' splatter at all. I am jealous!! I kinda wish i would of done a bar. That way I could of ran a harness instead of stock seat belts!
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thanks Cody, The minitubs really arent a consideration at this point, as well i know "things change" however i'm designing the car as a Stock Eliminator Ride without a Stock Legal engine.
Also i will be using 28 x 10.5 slicks instead of 30 x 9 radial slicks until i have the 1/4 panel openings massaged for the taller tire.

thanks again for the compliments!
 
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Drag Fabricator
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