No.

 

Just adjust them again hot when it is in the car and ready for use.

 

I have always set them both at .030. I don't think you will notice any difference doing them hot or cold. I never have.

 

Kinda hard to set them all hot, but here's a trick........ get the engine hot and check the lash on one intake and one exhaust valve, wait until the engine cools, recheck the same ones and note the difference. There will be a slightly greater gap when cold. Set them all cold a with the same added gap over your normal (hot) spec.

 

OK, time for reality. Setting all the valves "hot" does not work.

Now, learn the sequence, read how to _E-O, I-C", use it.

Now, how to do it by the only common sense method, "CREATE A SPEC".

Run the engine, get it to its full operating temperature.

Pull both valve covers off, and use the E-O, I-C to set ONE valve pair, at their respective HOT clearances.

Now, go do the rest of the day, dinner, TV, sleep.

Next morning, come out and HAND rotate the engine, and bring it back to the two valves you set hot, by E-O, I-C.

Check the COLD settings. Lets say hot, exhaust you set, .030, next morning, cold, .024.

You now know what the Create A Spec COLD setting. Set ALL the intakes, cold, via E-O, I-C, done.

Simple, easy, accurate, works.

 

Check the COLD settings. Lets say hot, exhaust you set, .030, next morning, cold, .024.
You now know what the Create A Spec COLD setting. Set ALL the intakes, cold, via E-O, I-C, done.
Simple, easy, accurate, works.

I was trying to explain the "create a spec" method but got it backwards. thanks for correcting me.

 

Why cant u set it hot or at temp? I get the create a spec. Makes sense, but I can’t put feeler gauge in when hot. Not hard to turn the 5/8 loc nut.
I was basically just asking if the cast iron stuff really changed all that much. My alum ls3 changes a ton, like .010-.012

 

More info here: CRG Research Report - 302ci Engine OEM Valve Adjustment

 

Doesn't make sense to me. Have no clue what E O I C is or means.

 

exhaust open, intake closed

 

Gee, golly, so hard to go to Google and look there, too much work, too confusing.

One point, NOBODY is forcing anyone to do it right, do it any way you wish, even at the bottom of the lake, if you so desire.

So, OK, lets go over a couple of things.

As we are all aware, a hot engine cools off, and as it does, so clearances change, as in valve clearances. But, trying to set all 16 valves as the engine is cooling off, DOESN'T GET THE ADJUSTMENTS ON THE LAST FEW VALVES CORRECT, as the engine has significantly cooled.

Hot engines also have another great trait, THEY BURN HANDS,

Now, IF the engine is cold, as in overnight, no hands burned, and, ALL valves get adjusted to a uniform spec, EVEN WHEN YOU MAKE YOUR OWN CREATE A SPEC TO DO SO

And getting to what "E-O, I-C" means, is one of those dangedest hard things some just cannot understand, or, closer, refuse to even read, and learn, so......

Setting valves, engine cold, with Create A Spec, (And, I hope the other post was read, because here is where you need to know your COLD SPECS).

ONE PAIR OF VALVES, FOR ONE CYLINDER AT A TIME, HAND rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation by socket and bar, from the front pulley set, until

The exhaust on the valve set is just opening (or, the push rod just starts to rise).... SET THAT INTAKE VALVE,

HAND rotate the engine to open, close that exhaust, and do the same for that intake valve

As the intake valve you just set, fully closes

SET THAT EXHAUST VALVE

Then, go on to the next pair of valves for another cylinder, repeat.

When done correctly, each valve only needs to be set ONCE< not 40 times hot, to get the right clearances.

It is just that easy, just that simple....... PAY ATTENTION, DO IT RIGHT.

Now, are any of you missing just why you created a cold valve clearance setting, and doing the adjustments, WITH A COLD ENGINE, over a hot one???????????

 

On my ls3 I did it the way you wrote. On a stock 302 with a. Small cam like the factory ones. I don’t that’s it too critical if it’s off by .002 or so. Just that they are all similar no so oddball ticking that’s not in sync with the rest.
I was just looking for an approx amount of expansion with all cast iron parts.

 

Cool your jets there fella. Just had no idea what the abbreviation EOIC meant. Thats all

 

That’s David…..I’m just glad to see him 🤪

 

Sorry, I missed a couple of days on this particular insanity. I am the administrator for three food distribution programs for our local Yerington area, from Food Bank of Northern Nevada, and I worked two in the last two days. I manage 6 volunteer workers, and we service aboout 275 recipients, give or take a few.

Now, lets see, some are saying that they want to set valves hot, well, I AM NOT SAYING YOU CAN'T DO THAT. If you want to burn your hands, get inconsistent settings, make it a lot harder than you wish, go head on, enjoy it.

If you want a closer accuracy on the valve adjustment, cool hands, not having to rush to keep heat in the engine, and fifty other reasons, Create A Spec for your solid lifter engine, and go, man, have at it. No foul.

Just wondering, those of you that build your own solid lifter engines, when the engine is on the engine stand.... this is just me, now, how do you get the engine up to operating temperature to do the as build first valve set?????????????????????? Is it as simple as dropping the engine into boiling water for the set, using a forced air, gas heater, lava flow, lightening strike, I AM ALL EARS.

For the hundreds of engines I have both designed modifications to, and built that had street and race solid lifter cams, doing the Create A Spec has resulted in easier "getting it done", and every one of those solid lifter engines ran stronger, quicker, faster than doing the valve setting as the engine cooled off. Even when I worked for Zora Arkus-Duntov at Chevy Skunkworks, all those 5 years as an engine design and development engineer, we were doing it all wrong. How could we have ever been that successful....being so completely wrong????

Even when I worked on my AA/FA nitro big blocks, and other Top Fuel/Funny Car engines, even between rounds, we always set the valves COLD, because that was the way the engine was, COLD..

I guess the couple of hundred other tuners are also raving, flaming idiots, just like me, for doing it that way....too.

But, some of you here are just better than everyone else, and do not care that there are other ways to do it, both better, and worse, much worse.

I even set the valves on my 4 stroke motorcycles COLD as well, guess the motorcycle industry is all messed up, too.

Vroom, vroom!

 

Sorry, I missed a couple of days on this particular insanity. I am the administrator for three food distribution programs for our local Yerington area, from Food Bank of Northern Nevada, and I worked two in the last two days. I manage 6 volunteer workers, and we service aboout 275 recipients, give or take a few.

Now, lets see, some are saying that they want to set valves hot, well, I AM NOT SAYING YOU CAN'T DO THAT. If you want to burn your hands, get inconsistent settings, make it a lot harder than you wish, go head on, enjoy it.

If you want a closer accuracy on the valve adjustment, cool hands, not having to rush to keep heat in the engine, and fifty other reasons, Create A Spec for your solid lifter engine, and go, man, have at it. No foul.

Just wondering, those of you that build your own solid lifter engines, when the engine is on the engine stand.... this is just me, now, how do you get the engine up to operating temperature to do the as build first valve set?????????????????????? Is it as simple as dropping the engine into boiling water for the set, using a forced air, gas heater, lava flow, lightening strike, I AM ALL EARS.

For the hundreds of engines I have both designed modifications to, and built that had street and race solid lifter cams, doing the Create A Spec has resulted in easier "getting it done", and every one of those solid lifter engines ran stronger, quicker, faster than doing the valve setting as the engine cooled off. Even when I worked for Zora Arkus-Duntov at Chevy Skunkworks, all those 5 years as an engine design and development engineer, we were doing it all wrong. How could we have ever been that successful....being so completely wrong????

Even when I worked on my AA/FA nitro big blocks, and other Top Fuel/Funny Car engines, even between rounds, we always set the valves COLD, because that was the way the engine was, COLD..

I guess the couple of hundred other tuners are also raving, flaming idiots, just like me, for doing it that way....too.

But, some of you here are just better than everyone else, and do not care that there are other ways to do it, both better, and worse, much worse.

I even set the valves on my 4 stroke motorcycles COLD as well, guess the motorcycle industry is all messed up, too.

Vroom, vroom!

Those dad gum engineers at Chevrolet…what do they know?

 

I actually know enough to from now on, not get involved in any of this any longer. As many know, I have been banned from Team Chevelle yet again, for defending myself from being called a liar, by "Roushguy" there. It was only supposed to be for a short time, but, I literally decided to make it permanent. Those whom know me, know I DO NOT LIE, nor make up stories, and, I defend myself when called liar, and worse.

It seems on both this, and that site, there are 99-44/100 percent of absolutely fabulous, great, top notch people, and they benefit from good advice given by a handful of those that actually know how to help with correct info. Then, there are that remainder of those members that do not add good info, and condemn those that do, as I have encountered. It no longer maters to me, I, nor any of you 99+ percent do not meed any of the adversity, so, I elect to take myself out of the position of somehow causing the ire of that partial percent that have NO reason to do what they do, not only to me, but others that have good, helpful info, over bad info.

Years ago, on both these boards, I was "Ignitionman", and was banned for defending myself, after helping. It lasted some time, and then, from both sites, I was literally begged to return, to help, and the same BS by others started back up, leading to what has occurred on that side recently. I will now respectfully log off, and no longer offer any tech help here, nor on any Team site,even when not banned there.

So, to the 99-44/100 percent remaining here, just use common sense when you ask a question, the right answers are there/here, and that common sense id the ONLY way to find from good, to "won't work" info.

The very best to all of you, take care, enjoy your cars.

Now logged off.

 

I saw exactly what he is talking about on the other site.

 

I hope he reconsiders for the 99.44% of us who will miss his knowledge.

 

I get David Ray's reasoning, there's many "hack jobs" posted that are get more attention than good tech.
I'd estimate that at least 50% of classic cars are total pieces of junk because they're are owned by those who don't have the aptitude to use a wrench. You see them at every cruise night. But in all fairness as in any community you must welcome them and learn to tolerate their utter cluelessness.
I hope you will still get involved as you nailed the best way to set lash on solid lifters.

 

David,
Your method is absolutely the best way... no burned fingers, spilled oil or inconsistent settings as the car cools off.
I've done this for years.

It's really hard to set valve lash quickly with stud girdles when hot, especially when you have to remove the wiper motor first.