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Voltage drop & won't start when hot

14K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  KRhat  
#1 ·
Hey guys, I know it's been a while but I recently got the urge to work on my car again. I have a 67 rs that I have semi restored over several years. Anyway the car starts and runs fine and the volt gauge reads 13.5-14 volts but after I drive it for a while and turn it off it won't crank back. The voltage will drop to around 10-11 volts but if it sits there for around 45 minutes it will crank fine and the gauge will read 13.5-14 volts again. I have a complete msd ignition with blaster coil. Any ideas? Thanks
 
#2 ·
Mine was doing that for a while too. I thought it was the starter going but it turned out to be pitting on the positive batt cable connector. Ran a brush through it and cleaned the terminal and it's been fine since.


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#3 ·
pitting on the positive batt cable connector
one of the many possible issues, dirty terminals to thebattery or starter, surface corrosion on ign to starter (big purple wires from memory) wires inside the insulation due to ay some timer been shorted over heated or just age.
And intial timing over advanced causing huge loads on starter solenoid and armiture causing dry solder joints in thearmiture that open when warm....over a long period of time
A battery that has a crook cell not hold a charge or full charge ..underrated battery cables, or corroded like purple wire above.
 
#5 ·
The symptom you describe is classic hot start problem due to poor connections. When hot, resistance in the wiring increases and makes a marginal connection turn into a poor or non-existent connection. Check positive and negative cables along with ground straps from motor to chassis and battery to motor. Steps comment on corrosion is 100% on track. If cables are suspect or you don't know the age then replace them.
 
#6 ·
If cables are suspect or you don't know the age then replace them.
If u want a mission of a job when it comes to the loom......
The easy and common way around this on old cars is simply to hang a relay off one of the lower heater mounting screws on the firewall side....
 
#7 ·
Steps...... On the top side of the planet we call the heavy things that connect to the starter "cables" the little tiny things in the loom...... "wires". Nobody really knows what condition his wires are in and it's not impossible that they need replacement becuase of age etc. I just think the poster meant the starter cables.

Jeff
 
#8 ·
Same problem here. Replaced starter, battery cables,ignition switch. Still just clicks when you turn the key sometimes. Mainly when hot and restarting.You can put a battery charger to it on full power boost and it starts every time you turn the key. WTH. Is the purple wire bad?Anything else to check? 67 rs 327.
 
#9 ·
Steps...... On the top side of the planet we call the heavy things that connect to the starter "cables" the little tiny things in the loom"wires".
LMAO
Nobody really knows what condition his wires are in and it's not impossible that they need replacement becuase of age etc. I just think the poster meant the starter cables
.

under the dash or in the consol or down near the starter is best, look at the wire notice any disclouration or distortion in the purple insulation....espec around any connectors
IF ones suspects any , then shave back about 3 or 4 " back from a terminal....about 1/2 " of insulation...If u see what looks like over heated copper then u have an issue with old wires..
you can also check the wires resistance to confirm...Confirm if corrided surface exists, not the other way around....the current sent out by the multi meter can flow easy, ..but try raming 700 even 100 amps down thewire and it will feel the resistance far more...
Yep a starter pulls those sort of curent for the 1st few milli seconds for intial torque under load
Why?
Electricity (electrons) runs down the surface of the wire stands not thru the center...so a corrided wire surface ineffect becomes one long dirty connection

Same problem here. Replaced starter, battery cables,ignition switch. Still just clicks when you turn the key sometimes. Mainly when hot and restarting.You can put a battery charger to it on full power boost and it starts every time you turn the key. WTH. Is the purple wire bad?Anything else to check? 67 rs 327.
One cant assume the "new starter" ..that the armiture was either thrown into an oven heated up and the solder joints checked for continuity and/or droped on a growller to check...A growler is a so called obsolete bit of equipment common in auto sparkie work shop pre 70s to check armitures before rebuilding.
yes we have found "new' starter with faulty armitures.
Yep a booster charger or even a 2nd battery i parell willfire up a starter nps , be it a faulty battery, bad conections faulty starter etc...
Like I said above old cars with orginal looms, like mine have faulty ing wires....
you can also get a good length of same gauge or bigger and by pass the ign circuit...or even jump with an old screwer driver betwen the terminals on the back of the starter...if it then goes ...
 
#13 ·
WOW in the last 15 years I have own 2 1967 camaros 1 rs/ss conv(wish I had back)
1 rs conv I own now, both cars have done the same thing,drive to it gets hot and
hit or miss if she cranks(mostly miss). Reading all these post it must be a common problem
low voltage(purple wire) I have traced back to the firewall outside, I guess I go under the dash and start tracing tomorrow after I go for a long ride($$$),my luck it will not do it again till I'm at show.Nothing more enjoyable than climbing under your car at a show with your screw drive while surrounded by people. Thanks for the post I seem to be on the right track.
 
#15 ·
Agree with Jerod. If the OE charging system is being used, it will take some driving to fully recharge the battery.

Remember, in the earlier times before maintenance free batteries and internally reg'd alternators, mech VR 's and charging systems were custom tailored for the weekly use of the vehicle.
If the battery was dead, then the VR needed adjusted in cranking up the charging voltage.
If the battery was needing water, it was being cooked, too much charging voltage.
Operating temp, min driving of 15 miles, no accessories on, min voltage across posts should be 13.8 volts. If the Camaro is running the OE mech voltage regulator, replace it with a Wells VR715 electronic reg'r and transfer the cover to look like OE and this wil help.

Also, on the starter, if the solenoid pulls in, but no crank, either:
1. battery too low in charge, or too small, see above.
2. battery cables too small of wire gauge, min 1 GA with molded clamps, and return cable on the block,
3. solenoid may need replacing, or at a min, turn the two copper bolts 180° and turn the disc 90° as this effort will expose 'new' contact area for current to pass.

Since the Camaro is a '67, don't forget the yellow wire from solenoid R post to coil + post as this wire gives starting ign voltage as ign key does not have ign start voltage.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for all the input I will try what was said, I did try jumping it from my truck with no luck. The battery stays on a battery tender when not in use but I will have it checked out also. I can climb under and jump it with a screw driver and it cranks and the voltage reg.
is a ac delco a couple years old but I will check out the one in the post. Thanks guys for all the help it's funny I had two cars with the same problem but I will report back hopefully fixed. And when you say turn the disk is that were the positive cable comes from the battery?

Thanks again
 
#17 ·
The disc is inside the solenoid.
You will have to remove the solenoid, unscrew the two nuts on the studs, then remove the screws holding on the plastic? end.
Once the plastic end is removed, you can swap the studs and turn the disc, reassemble.
 
#18 ·
If it's heat soak you might try a remote solenoid. I had a similar problem with mine for a while a couple of years ago. I added a solenoid and it did the trick. I really don't think it's a bad idea, even if you aren't having any problems. It's a pretty simple job, and you may already have most the parts laying around. Kevin


This is what mine looks like:
Image