I'm sure you already know this but the small red wire to the MSD for control power has to come straight from the IGN spade on the fuse block inside the car. If you did not install it yourself then verify that it is not connected to the original ignition power wire coming off the bulkhead connector unless the cloth covered resistor wire was replaced with a regular wire. I know it's run for a while but sometimes little stuff like that will work right on the edge and then one day say "That's it. I'm done." Just something else to check before doing the MSD diagnostics in their instructions.

 

Do you have a spare coil, or do you have a buddy that does?

One of the biggest causes of coil failure comes from people over-tightening the nuts on the coil-it breaks the pole loose inside the coil.

You can probably use an el cheapo coil from the store if nobody has one you can use.

 

Steiner: I'll double check that ...

EN: I don't have another coil ... however I might have a buddy with one ...

I found this video where MSD shows how to check the ignition and coil ... I'll give this a try tomorrow ...

 

You might look over MSD literature #6462 for instructions to troubleshoot.
I would suspect the module has thrown up its flag as Steiner suggests, "That's it, I'm done."
However, a simple check as Michael suggests, swap out a coil, any coil, just to see if it works.

 

That would be horrible if the Module is toast ... I've had it installed for a few years but only drive this car a few times a year it seems ... Figured it would last for a long, long time ...

I'll see if I can round up another coil and do some power checking as well as the spark test from the video ...

 

On another note, what configuration of voltage regulator do you have?
If you are running an external reg'd alternator, aka, 10DN, this might be the problem as an ext VR could introduce voltage spikes into the electrical system and these spikes may be the culprit to the module.

Remember, internal reg'd, read electronic regulated alts, came out just before electronic ignitions. So spiking events would have never shown up. Module problems then were related to shorted coils, due to overheat, and overheated modules.

However, doesn't mean you can't fix it. Install a 10-amp 17 volt Zener diode, cathode stud mount to rad support, on the red supply wire, say at the horn relay buss bar, and spikes would be smoothed out.

 

Car has a 140 amp Powermaster Alternator with Internal Regulator

 

Well, this is good. Nice set-up. Just a thought.

 

I very much appreciate any ideas you have ... keep throwing them my way as I might overlook ...

Will attempt surgery tomorrow ...

 

I used to have a Mallory Comp SS magnetic breakerless distributor. Have since replaced with an MSD 8360, still magnetic triggered. Anyway, one test that Mallory publishes on their website is for testing the module in the distributor. I'll recap the procedure in a minute but the reason for passing it along is that the video you linked looks like it would test the BOX triggering functionality but not necessarily the module itself.

Test procedure is as follows:
1) Connect a test light between coil (-) and ground
2) Turn IGN on but DO NOT crank
3) With the cap off the distributor, take a flat bladed screw driver and touch the magnetic pickup inside the distributor (not the reluctor paddle)
4) Magnetic pick up is functional and calling for spark if you observe the test light blinking each time you touch the pick up.

Magnetic Breakerless Test Procedure

 

I performed the spark test on the Ignition and Coil Setup and Spark is flying with key in On position ...

So rechecked the spark at the plugs and no dice ...

Is there anything else, other than the distributor, that could be causing this?

 

If you have spark at the coil high tension lead, then the only other place the spark travels is to the dist cap, rotor, then to each individual wire, providing the rotor turns with the engine cranking.

 

Bad cap or rotor may be the culprit then, or module in the distributer.

 

Hey guys ... I did a couple more checks on the Power coming into the Ignition Module via the Ignition Key ...

With the key in the Off Position: No Power ... With the Key in the On Position: 11.8 Volts ... With the Key in the Starting Position, the power dropped to 10.3 Volts

Is this drop sufficient to get things going? OR is something going on here?

 

You could test it by hotwiring it. Run the power wire to a constant 12 volt source and try to start the car. Realize you'll have to disconnect the wire to shut it off. That would eliminate if the voltage drop you're seeing is causing the issue.

On an EFI system getting down to 10 volts when cranking can cause a lot of issues, but not sure it would do the same on your system.

 

Thanks ... I'll give it a shot ...

What is normal for volts while cranking?

 

Before trying the jump start ...

I reconnected the switched 12v wire and tried to start the car again and bingo, it fired right up ...

Now I'm really confused ...

Either I had a loose connection somewhere that didn't appear loose or the distributor decided to work again ...

Holy Head Spinning Batman ... LOL

Now I'm worried about getting stuck out somewhere!

 

well, good that it's fixed, but bad that you don't know for sure what fixed it. I hate it when that happens. Probably a loose connection somewhere, just check everything over one last time. I don't think the distributor can fix itself. :noway:

 

Took the car out for a while ... got into boost a few times along the way ... all seems good as of now ... Let's keep them fingers crossed !!!

 

Maybe the car is possessed and just wanted to be touched.............
Good you got it running. As Jody suggests, hot and cold symptoms can lead to different paths of troubleshooting.

 

Exactly ... The Main problem is that I don't drive the car Enough !

 

Welp ... starting doing it again ... Will not start and no spark ... Will test everything out again and may end up replacing a couple things ...

 

Coil #8252 ... From what I see online the spec for the Primary is 0.02 ohms and Secondary is 1.38 K ohms ...

I'm getting 0.5 ohms on the Primary and 1.2 K ohms on the Secondary

As for the Distributor I'm getting 0 ohms with testing the magnetic pickup ...

I'll order a magnetic pickup ... however, any concern or reason why my Primary Number is so high on the Coil? Does it need to be replaced?

Thanks

 

You won't be able to get a very accurate reading of a sub-ohm resistance using a standard two lead digital multimeter.

 

I have a similar setup you have on my 68 and had same issues you were having. I fought it for a while, found it would turn over fast but not start but when I jumped it from my other car it world start and run, but not start from own battery. When I removed and cleaned battery connectors and recharged my battery everything started working again with no more issues.

I know it sounds dumb but it was something along the MSD not getting enough juice, but the damn thing turned over like it had new battery. Just an idea I thought I would share that worked on my 68

By the way, nice setup under the hood.

 

Agree with Steiner. As Fley suggests, you might try a separate battery for the distributor confiming the battery power.

 

Just realized that I never update this thread ... so just in case others run into similar issues, it was the Magnetic Pickup ... Replaced and all worked well and is still working ... FYI

 

:yes: Love when a member closes the thread with a solution.