Mines under/next to the master. I don't see any logical other place to put it. You have to replace the master with the drum to disc swap and since the lines are there and available you might as well install it there. Also you can fab up the rear out of the master to the adj valve before you even stick it in the car.

 

Dennis,

That is where I was thinking of installing it but just not sure exactly where. Do you have any photos showing where and how it is installed? Did you mount it with a bracket or is it just held by the brake lines.

Thanks for the help.

 

I don't have a picture but can say let your line bending skills dictate where it sits. No bracket necessary but I have seen some cool brackets that use the MC mounting bolts to hold the prop valve under the MC.

 

Here you go.

 

Any info on that bracket?

 

good info too!~

 

Get one of these and and also buy the line set and mounting bracket that goes with it, you will have minimal bending to do. Also you wont have to play around setting an adjustable proportioning valve.

http://www.rickscamaros.com/disc-conversion-proportioning-valve-1967-1969.html

 

I have one of those and could not get my C5/C4 brakes to work properly. The rear would always lock before the front even started working. I removed it and added the adj prop valve to compensate for the larger dia rear lines. I have a friend with the same brakes, he used matching dia lines front and rear and doesn't need the prop valve at all.

 

I installed mine to the outboard side of the MC and it is just held by the brake lines.

You could also easily mount it to the subframe under the driver's seat where the factory put the valve on cars so equipped. If you do have a factory valve there, remove it as you don't want two prop valves in the system.

 

Best shot I could find-

Dennis, I owe you a bracket! Sorry bout that.

 

No problem Dan, I'm moving slowly since everything is working but do plan to replace the lines before too long. Bring it to the next club meeting if you can make it.

 

Intersting thread.
How do you know how to adjust the valve.
Can you do a check before you go for a test drive and find out you have too much front or rear brake?

 

I was lucky, the day I finished installing my rear disc's it started to drissle real heavy making the street slick. I set the valve so it didn't limit the rear brakes then putted up the street at 10 mph and put on the brakes. The rears locked up before the fronts even felt like they were working. Made an adjustment to the full limit and tested again. This time the fronts locked at 10 mph on the slick road but the rear didn't. I put the car away and waited for a dry day and found a safe section of roadway where I tested at slow speeds and worked up to faster speeds.

I can't stress enough, be careful and be safe when testing your cars brakes!

 

This is how mine is done. It's one of the few things I let someone else do, and he fabricated the mounting brackets.

 

Here's mine. Made a bracket myself to attach to the booster studs. Attached the prop valve and ran the lines.

 

Thanks for all the great replies. I am sure I can make one of these setup work. I have power brakes so I may try the way Bob did his.

Bob, do you have any pictures of the finished setup with lines installed?

Brent, I see your proportioning valve inboard of the master but there is something outboard of the master also. It looks like the front brake line runs through it. What is that?

 

That's a Hurst Roll Control (http://www.jegs.com/i/Hurst/530/174-5000K/10002/-1) , in case I ever decide to drag race it. You set it to lock up the front brakes while you do your burnout, click the switch inside and the front brakes unlock. Since my mechanic was installing the prop valve and master cylinder he recommended plumbing in the roll control at the same time.

 

I put mine right next to the driver's seat so we could adjust it on the fly.

 

A lot of peeps who road race do this. I thought about it, but wasn't really going to go there often enough.

1/8 in bar stock with some holes!

Here it is with the lines installed. Everything clears and the rear line was coming up from down there anyway.

Don't even ask how many times I went to the hardware or auto parts store to find fittings to make everything work. What a PITA! :yes:

 

Thanks Brent. I plan to do a little drag racing with my car. Now I have to decide if I want to put one in my car or live without it. Guess I should decide before I make the brake lines otherwise I will have to re-do them if I decide to put one in later.

 

No problem. Now is the time to do it if you're plumbing everything else. The one I linked to has the brake line installation kit included. If you don't need the tubing and fittings then this one is about $30 cheaper: http://www.jegs.com/i/Hurst/530/174-5000/10002/-1

 

This is a simple bracket..

 

Just an FYI

I followed my own advice as mentioned in post #12.

As part of a few winter projects I replaced my front to rear brake line with a pre-bent set. I ordered the 2 piece line option with the intent of moving the adjustable valve to the frame rail.

All that was entailed was to cut ~1" from the front piece of the line , re-flare and mount the valve to the frame rail. Very simple. Your experience might vary a little based on your choice of valve. Mine is an SSBC.