Sure - Contact https://www.lectriclimited.com/ We have a good thread on making the swap.

 

I am really glad I clicked on that link. That looks like a great resource for electrical that can be used for small, focused. particular work. If you need just one wire with a connector on it, this place will do it. You don't have to buy more than you need. Here is a fuse block repair page I copied for you to get an idea of what they offer. They are in a Chicago suburb, so they could have been associated with the Detroit auto industry back in the day, cause they have a large selection of machines and wiring processes. I will use them soon!
P.S: Sorry, I clicked on my 69 for searching, so the pic is not for your 67......

 

Hey guys thanks a lot for the quick responses I’ll contact them during the week and get one ordered I appreciate the help. I can’t figure out why it’s such a tough piece to find.

 

In general you can say that American Auto Wire, Painless, M & H Electric among others who make full harnesses and fuse panels are reluctant to just sell the fuse box.
Lectric Limited does and the quality is great. Just be aware that your 50 year old harness may also be showing signs of wear like you have found in the panel. You may need to replace and or extend the actual connections on the rear of the fuse panel in order to get the repair done.

https://www.camaros.net/forums/19-e...orums/19-electrical-wiring/379609-has-anyone-just-upgraded-fuse-block-67-a.html


Brian

 

Are you using the stock points type distributor? If so, there should be two wires that connect to the "+" side terminal of the coil: one with 12 volts that comes from the starter, and a resistor wire with lower voltage when the starter is disengaged, and engine is running. The lower resistor wire is to prevent the points in the distributor from pitting prematurely. If you have a constant 12 volts going to the coil "+" and its hot all the time, you will be changing points often. The 12 volts from the starter is to give the coil a bit more charge to get a cold engine to fire. Once running, the coil works good with a lower voltage input.

The starter (if stock) has two posts; one is marked "S" on the solenoid, and references START which is what the purple wire from the ignition switch wire is for...it activates the solenoid when you turn the ignition switch to the start position. The other post, marked "R" references RUN and would have a yellow wire providing the 12V to the coil for initial start up. As as soon as you release the key in the ignition switch, that circuit shuts off and the coil is then fed by the white resistor wire (lower voltage to the coil that comes from the ignition switch.

If the ignition has been converted to an MSD type box ignition, then they prefer a 12 volt source, so those that do this conversion roll up and tape off the white resistor wire (in case you or another owner go back to original), and then they source a 12 volt lead that is hot when the key is in the run position. On the fuse box, there is a spade marked IGN that can be used for this.