I wouldn't support it by anything but the frame.You can place a jackstand by the front leafspring eyelet and it will hold the car stable.

 

Beats me. I've done two leaf spring changes, and I don't know of a good place to set your jack stands, for the driveway mechanic. The problem is, jack stands would be in the way if used on the sub-frames. The way I did it (again, I don't really like it) is to get two 2x6's about foot and half long. Place them just forward the front leaf spring mounts...one end of the board extending out under the rocker, and the other end under the rear floor-board. Jack it and place your jack stand under the 2x6. It'd be a good idea to put the rear wheels under the car for a little peace of mind. If you come across a better way, I'd like to hear it. Good luck with this!

 

I used the rocker arm area's but also put my L-60 tires under the car too w/ extra boards for cribbing just in case!! And I don't like doing it this way either. pdq67

 

I placed my jack stands on the rear subframe at the point right before they arc up to the underside of the trunk. They were a little in the way, but it worked.

 

Block your front wheels or support the whole car on four jack stands. When I do any work under my 67. I jack the front end up under the crossover member beneath the engine put jack stands under front edge of rockers. I jack up the rear end under the 12 bolt put jack stands under rear edge of rockers. This way the car is supported and level on all four corners.To remove the rear leaf springs, disconnect the parking brake cable, take off the shocks lower bolt, then the plate. Jack the rear end up support it with two jack stands, remove the front of spring bracket from floor ( 3 bolts/side), then rear of spring shackle bolt. spring is off good luck.

67 rs/ss

------------------

 

Block your front wheels or support the whole car on four jack stands. When I do any work under my 67. I jack the front end up under the crossover member beneath the engine put jack stands under front edge of rockers. I jack up the rear end under the 12 bolt put jack stands under rear edge of rockers. This way the car is supported and level on all four corners.To remove the rear leaf springs, disconnect the parking brake cable, take off the shocks lower bolt, then the plate. Jack the rear end up support it with two jack stands, remove the front of spring bracket from floor ( 3 bolts/side), then rear of spring shackle bolt. spring is off good luck. I have the two jack stands supporting the rear end on wheels (furniture carts) to roll the rear end out from under the car.

67 rs/ss

------------------

 

I have always put my rear jackstands right in front of the rear spring perches and car is very stable. I got used to doing it there when the rear end was out of the car.

To get the rear out of my car I built a wooden stand (on wheels) that supports the rear end on the tubes. I put the stand on the floor and placed my floor jack on the stand. Car was then jacked up in the center of the differential, jackstands were placed ahead of the perches as noted above and then the car was first lowered on the jackstands and then the differential lowered on to the stand. The floor jack was then lowered all the way and removed. This allowed me to easily remove the rear springs and roll out the rear end.

You could just use another set of jackstands, one set for the body and one set for the differential tubes and do the same kind of thing as you don't need to move the rear end.

Mark M.

 

Its done fellows. There was enough frame rail if front of the spring purches to block the car up safely. I still put some 6x6 blocks under the rockers as a safety precaution. Now all I have to do is get under there and detail it all out. I have a pit built into my garage floor that is 3.5' wide, 6' long and 4' deep. I made a hinged lid out of .25" aluminum tread plate. This makes working under a car a breeze. If you ever build a shop and can't go the lift route, this is the next best thing.
Thanks for all the input,
Guy

 

G - "... so I can make it pretty for no one else to see." That gave me a great chuckle. My wife just shakes her head at some of the stuff I do to this car just to drive it down the road and get it all dirty. Good luck on your detailing. CAUTION, once you get the springs and rear end all spruced up, the gas tank and floor pans will look kinda ratty, then once those are all shined up, the engine compartment will look a little wimpy... and over the waterfall you go! haha. Next thing you know, you got the whole thing apart.

 

Denver,
As for as the gas tank, I've already got a new one to go in. New rear springs from PSC and poly bushings and shackel kit. The paint on the springs was ratty looking so I repainted 'em.
I'm already going over the falls. I bought a complete front end kit, poly bushing, Eibach springs for the front and solid body mounts from GW. I'll probably pull the front cap anyway, so I can detail the frame and do the Gulstrand Mod. May be a good time to install my fresh built 383 stkr backed by a Muncie M20, also. While I'm working on the rear I'm looking for a 79,80,81 TA rear disc setup to install on my 8.5" 10 bolt. Also going with Vintage A/C system. Kinda reminds me of a song, "one thing, one thing leads to ano-o-o-ther". Oh well what can I say.
Later, Guy