If you get the headers Jet Hot coated, you should be ok. Plain headers-issues.

 

I do plan to have the headers Jet Hot coated. I just talked to them today. They say the classic polish will reduce temps up to 65%, but I can't find what the actual before & after temps would be. Thanks for your reply.

 

It looks like you have already dimpled the header.

I'd say with those headers you have no choice but to use a protective sleeve on the hose.

Like this:

Amazon.com: Design Engineering 010405 Heat Shroud 1/2" - 1-1/4" I.D. x 3ft Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure) : Automotive

Buy Design Engineering 010405 Heat Shroud 1/2" - 1-1/4" I.D. x 3ft Aluminized Sleeving for Ultimate Heat Protection (with Hook and Loop Closure): Automotive - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

Thank you very much! I was wondering if such a thing existed. The Velcro makes it very handy. The picture I posted has the line looking like it's further away than it actually is. I can barely get the line nut started. If I have to drop the angle of the drive line, it gets really close. I'm pulling the engine & headers back out to dent it further back about to the line I drew. I'm interested to see the Stainless Steel zip ties at the same listing too. Thanks again.

 

Google yields this
“We talked with Tom Lee of Lee Manufacturing who builds racing power steering boxes, and pumps and he prefers the fluid temperature at 180 degrees F, but he also says anything below 250 degrees F is acceptable. What will kill pumps is temperatures exceeding 300 degrees”

 

Google yields this
“We talked with Tom Lee of Lee Manufacturing who builds racing power steering boxes, and pumps and he prefers the fluid temperature at 180 degrees F, but he also says anything below 250 degrees F is acceptable. What will kill pumps is temperatures exceeding 300 degrees”

Thanks much for taking the time to google. The owner of AGR posted several You Tubes 4 years ago & said to not go over 180. I called, left message, he didn't call back, so I don't know if the business still exists? Recently a guy posted under his video saying he couldn't find the special P/S fluid he had made.

 

Yikes, that’s close. Can you spin the fitting away from the header tube a little. Might help to run a cooler.

 

A little

 

I would look into a banjo fitting and eliminate that close proximity first.

 

GM Saginaw Power Steering Banjo Fitting - CP Performance

GM Saginaw Power Steering Banjo Fitting

www.cpperformance.com

 

Thanks much for taking the time to post this. The problem is that this is the wrong size for the pressure side. This only fits the return side. The pressure side is 11/16" instead of 5/8. The pressure side is what's close to the header. I spent over 2 days researching & calling every retailer & manufacture that I could think of trying to find an 11/16 Banjo to -6AN. I cannot find one.

 

The fluid is always moving so I'd be surprised if it would ever get to the temperatures Worn Out Welder posted. If the temperatures got hotter than you wanted you could put a cooler in the line. If you were tracking the car for an extended period the fluid might start getting too warm but that's more an problem with rack systems than the stock box.

 

AC Delco has the best power steering fluid according to folks I trust who track their cars.

Don

 

Thanks for the info. Unrelated: since you had a 4L65E in your 69; what crossmember did you use?

 

I insulted insulated mine, since I have them run under the headers.

 

I insulted mine, since I have them run under the headers.



View attachment 302612

So their feelings were hurt?

 

Way too close for me. There's several good suggestions here. Is that a custom made braided hose, do you have the length to turn and reroute it? You have to keep the return line in mind also. I had to get a bit creative with my lines, but for another reason.

On my ceramic coated headers, I had to put some header wrap on #6 tube (sbc) that was too close to the a/c box on the firewall. Hot Rodding, like taking parts out of OE spec's, is a constant learning curve.

 

Way too close for me. There's several good suggestions here. Is that a custom made braided hose, do you have the length to turn and reroute it? You have to keep the return line in mind also. I had to get a bit creative with my lines, but for another reason.

On my ceramic coated headers, I had to put some header wrap on #6 tube (sbc) that was too close to the a/c box on the firewall. Hot Rodding, like taking parts out of OE spec's, is a constant learning curve.

The lines are a pre-made kit bought from Speedway Motors made by a Co. named Gotta Show.
# 617-4837 $140. This is the only setup I've been able to get to screw into the 11/16" box. The picture is skewed in a way that looks like I can just screw anything in there, but I can't & even this barely allows me to screw it in. I tried other inverted flare/AN fittings. I'm certainly living the last part of your statement. Thanks for your reply.

 

At a minimum I would put one of those plug boot heat sleeves over that elbow fitting. IMHO the banjo fitting shown and orientating the line away from header would be a better way

 

The other thing you can run in to with the header that close to the box is the top seal melting or atleast distorting enough to cause a fluid leak, been there, done that. I've never seen a correct set of headers be that close. What brand are they?

 

They are Hooker Super Comps #2285. The average BBC has 1 3/4 X 1 3/4 exhaust ports & can use a 2" header which has tubes routed differently. Brodix exhaust ports are larger, needing 2 1/8" headers. When going to 2 1/8" the choices are slim pickins. Just to get this far, I've done a lot of modifying. I've had the headers on & off the engine 7 times. I'm pulling the engine & headers back out to modify that dent larger yet, because the fit is so tight. The early fit problem was the flange wouldn't clear the ARP head bolts. Hooker & all the companies have had since 1967 to perfect the fit of their headers, but nobody has done it for the BBC in a 1st Gen. I've looked at cars at a lot of Car Shows; I think almost all the 1st Gen BBCs are dented in to fit. Usually a contributing factor is because guys don't use the correct BBC frame stands. I do have the correct BBC frame stands. I don't know of another 1st Gen with 2 1/8" headers. Thanks for your reply about the other potential problem.

 

Another way tp solve the potential heat issue is to run your hoses differently. I never liked the old hose setup running under the headers so when I did my serpentine addition, I made -AN hoses (Earls/Holley) and problem solved. Not correct for a #'s matching car, but mine's as restomod as you can get.

 

You could always go full Frank with remote reservoir and a derale cooler sandwiched between the a/c condenser and radiator.. lol

 

You could always go full Frank with remote reservoir and a derale cooler sandwiched between the a/c condenser and radiator.. lol
View attachment 302639

Full Frank…..now there’s a new descriptive term
😆

 

yes the heat will cause the box to puke the pitman shaft seals , i had this problem because the headers are close to the box i installed a cooler from a 88 bonn
eville if i remember right and havent had anymore problems with it overheating the box or fluid since

 

A little

 

In regard to Temperature consideration….most hydraulics I’ve worked on in industrial applications runs above 180. This is by design to help dissipate moisture that can accumulate between run cycles.
However they do incorporate cooling systems so the desired temperature is maintained, even if it’s just finned coils on smaller units…..just a thought

 

Well post 32 shows a banjo fitting that would work. May want to get another AN line (longer) made to route it away from header. Can the current AN fittings be salvaged and just re-used to make a longer hose?

That would eliminate the need to pull header gain and dent it more.

 

It's a nice piece for sure but this could be a problem:

"This product requires a flat machine like surface about .120 wide to seal correctly"

 

FYI: I had mine made at a local Hydraulic supply house. I was surprised to see that they made stainless braid lines.

 

My NAPA does all our heavy equipment lines, they have a huge rack (lol) of fittings
they have a sweet setup, machine has a touch screen punched in some info ?, makes a nice swaged line.

 

I agree with the comment being that AC Delco fluid is very good, thats what I am running. And they are proud of the product at the register, think it was $11 qt about a year ago.
Iran DEI insulated heat sleeves on everything critical under the hood; PS, fuel, wiring and now I will install some on my hydraulic TOB set up on the TKX. Specs on that stuff is 500* continuous and 2000* intermittent. Not cheap though, but I like it though.

 

Well you miss every shot you don’t take.
I'm confident you will work this out and it will help someone in the future when you present yourfindings and solution. 👍🏼

 

In your pics your fittings are inverted flare. You can try Summit or CPP to get some conversion fittings. Theres a company by me that deals in hydraulic stuff. They’re in so. San Francisco and I got fittings and hose from them in the past. The number is 650-589-9655. Its called Adam Hill Company they fixed me up with aftermarket steering box and hydraboost lines

 

If you're referring to CP Performance, I looked at their site & called them, but they weren't open today.
I didn't see any inverted flare fittings there, I would need 11/16. I've thoroughly searched Summit & bought some of their fittings that didn't work. Their Earl's fitting 949096ERL looks like it would be the perfect configuration, but I can't find it in 11/16". Even though it looks perfect, I'm not sure of its height. I've contacted every retailer & manufacturer of fittings I could think of. I found the listing for Adam Hill, but their website didn't work. I can call them on Monday, thanks much for their #.

 

I would use the banjo fitting but look for a wider copper seal for it. Pick the ideal outside diameter and file fit the inside diameter if you have to. Or make your own out of copper sheet.
If you will be doing any fast steering motions like Autocross, you need a cooler. Just a down and up fin & tube ahead of the radiator works great. High effort fast ratio boxes heat the fluid more than a stock system and are marginal for cooling. I've seen several fail on track days due to overheating.

 

Dave,
Wouldn’t the fluid flowing through the fitting essentially keep it from getting hot? Also if Jet coated headers are used, wouldn’t it be be 60%or so cooler?

 

Sorry it didnt work out.

 

Thanks anyway, they may be a resource for something else in the future?

 

I bet there’s a TIG guy close that can get you some clearance. If he is worth his salt, he might have better ideas than me.
There’s always another way to beat this space constraint.
I’d pack that tube with fine sand, then heat it with a torch to make it 40-45 degrees outboard of the headers.
Actually I’d probably just be tired of messing with it and cut very thin slices and bend it over out of the way, then weld it up with some 308L SS.

This is some 3/8-0.035 wall tube on a -6 JIC/AN
Because it was Sunday and no one is open on Sunday.

 

I bet there’s a TIG guy close that can get you some clearance. If he is worth his salt, he might have better ideas than me.
There’s always another way to beat this space constraint.
I’d pack that tube with fine sand, then heat it with a torch to make it 40-45 degrees outboard of the headers.
Actually I’d probably just be tired of messing with it and cut very thin slices and bend it over out of the way, then weld it up with some 308L SS.

This is some 3/8-0.035 wall tube on a -6 JIC/AN
Because it was Sunday and no one is open on Sunday.
Worn... : Very nice looking piece, I'll keep in mind, but think I'll try to reroute the tube.
View attachment 302837