[SoCal805]

What grease for regulator rollers and track?

White??

Passenger side window takes some effort opening/closing. It is not used much compared to DS which works freely....but girl friend has a hard time so I was going to pull door card and grease

I have used axle bearing grease on regulators before with good results as it "sticks" but suspect there is a proper lube

 

[fairfax1000]

What grease for regulator rollers and track?

White??

Passenger side window takes some effort opening/closing. It is not used much compared to DS which works freely....but girl friend has a hard time so I was going to pull door card and grease

I have used axle bearing grease on regulators before with good results as it "sticks" but suspect there is a proper lube

You would be best suited to inspect for a cracked or flat spotted roller. If you try to just lube it, you're only delaying the inevitable part failure. I would remove the panel, inspect the parts, clean it with brake clean everywhere, and apply Lucas brand white lithium. Just my opinion on the lube.

 

[dhutton]

I have been using this with good results

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wdd-300103?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-oils-fluids-sealer&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIxKi9jbzgjgMV26FaBR11HxuKEAQYASABEgKPxvD_BwE

 

[SoCal805]

Will inspect when I pull the door card. Doesn't feel like flat spot on roller(s) but will look at components. I have the Lucas white lithium grease but the WD-40 Don notes may be easier to "get in" the door regulator.

The PS window gets a fraction of use as DS so hopefully it just needs a little lubrication. Inside door handle also is a bit "hard" also. Neither for me ever was an issue....but GF needs it to work like a modern car

 

[fairfax1000]

Will inspect when I pull the door card. Doesn't feel like flat spot on roller(s) but will look at components. I have the Lucas white lithium grease but the WD-40 Don notes may be easier to "get in" the door regulator.

The PS window gets a fraction of use as DS so hopefully it just needs a little lubrication. Inside door handle also is a bit "hard" also. Neither for me ever was an issue....but GF needs it to work like a modern car

Well, if the girlfriend is happy...better to fix it right and knows it's good, because I'm gonna be upset when my backseat window won't work.

 

[dhutton]

White lithium grease is no longer recommended by some since it dries out fairly quickly.

 

[TomcatSTL]

I had amazingly good luck by simply douching the old grease with PB Blaster. I did this through the gap with the windows rolled down. I did not remove the door cards.

The PB Blaster softened the old cracked grease and the windows still roll smoothly with the regulators more than ten years on.

 

[FRANKTHECRANK]

I know this probably won't be a popular post, but it doesn't mean it isn't true.

Any garage door installer will tell you, never grease the roller channels, ...ever. Garage doors have rollers on them for a reason,... so they "roll" in the channel, not slide in it on grease. Same goes for door glass rollers. Properly operating window regulators have dry, clean channels, and rollers that spin freely.

Grease not only keeps the rollers from "rolling" like they should, but grease also attracts and collects dirt and other crap to the point even the greased up rollers and channels stop sliding.

Lubing up the roller bearings with a little WD40 to keep them rolling is fine.

 

[SoCal805]

Well pretty much a nothing sandwich. After door card removal I just cleaned the primary window crank spline and sprayed it and all moving points of regulator with WD-40. Rolls up/down like butter now. Same for door latch and handle mechanism inside door. My $.02 is lack of use and many years it just needed a light lube from the WD 40. I agree with Don and others, "grease" is not what you want on rollers or track

I am assuming all the door internals are original. Given car was originally Gold, appears it was stripped well to paint current blue color by P.O. Glass is original.

Few pics:

Found these inside door. 1971 penny. IDK what the other parts are.

 

[dolbyg1]

You did that right. Heavy grease would be wrong. It collects dust from the air. Years of sturring it in makes hard grease. Then you need muscles to crank the window.

 

[69-er]

I know this probably won't be a popular post, but it doesn't mean it isn't true.

Any garage door installer will tell you, never grease the roller channels, ...ever. Garage doors have rollers on them for a reason,... so they "roll" in the channel, not slide in it on grease. Same goes for door glass rollers. Properly operating window regulators have dry, clean channels, and rollers that spin freely.

Grease not only keeps the rollers from "rolling" like they should, but grease also attracts and collects dirt and other crap to the point even the greased up rollers and channels stop sliding.

Lubing up the roller bearings with a little WD40 to keep them rolling is fine.

I've always used some sort of grease, but this method makes sense. I would imagine nylon rollers were used so lubricant wouldn't be needed.

Since the steel roller shafts also interface with nylon, wouldn't it make sense that lubricating them also isn't necessary? However, WD-40 makes a good cleaner to clean out the crud that has built up. The propellant/solvent/carrier, whatever it is, evaporates and leaves a thin film, which I don't believe would be a bad thing.

I wonder how WD-40 "Specialist Anti-Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant" would work. It's supposed to leave a dry lubricant film without attracting dirt.

What did Fisher Body do?

 

[FRANKTHECRANK]

I've always used some sort of grease, but this method makes sense. I would imagine nylon rollers were used so lubricant wouldn't be needed.

Since the steel roller shafts also interface with nylon, wouldn't it make sense that lubricating them also isn't necessary? However, WD-40 makes a good cleaner to clean out the crud that has built up. The propellant/solvent/carrier, whatever it is, evaporates and leaves a thin film, which I don't believe would be a bad thing.

I wonder how WD-40 "Specialist Anti-Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant" would work. It's supposed to leave a dry lubricant film without attracting dirt.

What did Fisher Body do?

Me mentioning using a small amount of WD40 on the roller bearings was basically due to the age of the rollers we are discussing. The fact remains, if you need two rigid, non-moving items to slide against each other, use grease, if something spins freely and needs to roll against another surface, grease is not used or needed.

WD which stands for water displacement, can aid in keeping any steel roller bearing from rusting, on window regulators or over head doors. Yes, the same way any type of grease is not needed or recommended with any type of roller/channel set up, the bearings should be free wheeling without lubrication as well.

 

[Sauron67MM]

I prefer Deep Creep over WD 40. It wicks and leaves a thin, protective lubricating film. Which is why Willie recommends using it on all hood and door hinges he rebuilds. He's done dozens for me. And it's good for firearms.

 

[SoCal805]

I concentrated on the pivot points of the arms and the "axle" of the rollers with WD40, not the rollers and track themselves so much. Window works very smooth now

I suspect the WD product Don noted would "last" longer than standard WD 40. I have a can of PB lithium spray that may be similar but just used the WD 40 as it quickly smoothed everything out. There was no real "rust" in the mechanism, just had very little use compared to drivers side but now is happy. YMMV

 

[396 SS/RS]

WD-40 is more of a penetrant/solvent with little lubrication properties. I use Molykote 7514 Synthetic Grease. If it's good for QA1 Safety Related Equipment in a nuclear plant, it's good enough for me.

 

[dhutton]

WD-40 is more of a penetrant/solvent with little lubrication properties. I use Molykote 7514 Synthetic Grease. If it's good for QA1 Safety Related Equipment in a nuclear plant, it's good enough for me.

The WD40 I recommended is not like regular WD40. It is very different and works well in this application…

They offer a whole line of lubricants under the WD40 brand name…

For freeing up rusted parts I use Kroil. I haven’t tried anything that I found works better. Pricey though.

 

[396 SS/RS]

For freeing up rusted parts I use Kroil. I haven’t tried anything that I found works better. Pricey though.

Agreed, I have several types of Kroil. It's expensive but worth every penny.
I had friend some years back that had a SBC that had been sitting and was locked up. I suggested to spray the cylinders down good with Kroil and let it soak. He let it soak for several days and was able to free it up.