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69z28freak

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have been trying to make a well informed choice on dipping vs blasting. There are Pro's and cons to both applications. My concern is that the blaster will not get all of the nooks and crannies of rust that is my car. I am right on the fence right now and just need a push in the right direction. The car goes into one of the 2 places next week, and I don't want to flip a coin on this one. So any advice I get now will be greatly apprecaited. Here are afew pics. Also do you think I need to replace the trunk floor pan and ineer and outer wheel wells?

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Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Acid dip, no question IF it's done right, thoroughly neutralized and followed up by a full immersion dip in primer
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Hey Mike do you know Redistrip? They claim to have the process down. As you can tell by the pictures this car is a serious rust bucket. I am concerened that if I don't dip it that I will be painting a car with lots of rust waiting to bust out. ON the other hand acid might be waiting to bust out. 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other. Obvioulsy the big concern is leaching. A lot of peopl seem to say dipping is bad, but perhaps it depends on the condition of the car. I wonder how much of the car will come back after dipping concidering the shape it is in?
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Hey Mike do you know Redistrip? They claim to have the process down. As you can tell by the pictures this car is a serious rust bucket. I am concerened that if I don't dip it that I will be painting a car with lots of rust waiting to bust out. ON the other hand acid might be waiting to bust out. 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other. Obvioulsy the big concern is leaching. A lot of peopl seem to say dipping is bad, but perhaps it depends on the condition of the car. I wonder how much of the car will come back after dipping concidering the shape it is in?
I don't know Redistrip, but acid is a chemical which can be neutralized, and should be with a properly done job. There's no magic to that. For a car like yours, I'd be much more worried about rust than a failure of the acid neutralization process. Does Redistrip dip in primer after the stripping and neutralization?

Oh, and be ready to spend a LOT of money on rust repair. You might want to think about a better starting point unless this is a numbers matching rare car.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Hi Mike as far as a primer dip process I don't think they do that, but the do prime. They have a 4 step process. This car is plain jane 6 cyl car that I have owned since 1986. I bought from the original owner. The car actually looked awesome until I started stripping it. The deeper I dug, the more rust I found. I have concidered getting another car, but what the heck do I do with this one. I don't think anyone would want to buy it and I wonder if I could get anything at all for it? I was thinking that I would probably have to replace the trunk floor pan, inner and outer wheel wells, roof skin, rear quarters and upper and lower cowl. If I had an idea of how much it would cost to do that work, it would make my decision easier regarding keeping this car or getting another one.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Mike,

I think I mentioned before the issues with acid dipping and you have mentioned them in this thread already. Trying to scrutinize your pics as well as I can with out seeing the car in person, I'm not getting a real warm feeling about dipping her. several areas seem to be on the verge of coming apart and if it was me I would be very concerned she may all come unglued when dipped. I think if she were mine and I decide to go that route I'm thinking I would 1st weld in a bunch of 1"x1" bracing to ensure she keeps her shape. I'm almost certain she will come back looking like Swiss cheese and very weak in some critical areas unless some of what I'm seeing looks worse than it really is in person. There is possibly a 3rd option depending on how much repair your planning vs replacement and I'm almost thinking of going that route on mine. The only metal I'm not replacing is the the support around the door openings, firewall cowl area and the package tray and rear seat y supports. Everything else is already sitting hear and I'm half temped to use my old body for measurements and build basically a new one beside the old using the new metal and transfer in the other parts after she's basically done only issue with that for me would be the door supports. Bob sells them for a decent price but mine are mostly OK. But depending on how much you need to replace it may be an option, not a cheap one or possibly the preferred one but an option.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Hey Kevin I hear ya. Dipping might be a bit agressive given the state of rust. However the big question is which sheet metal to replace? Another option is to finish removing as much paint as I can by hand and blast the problem areas, then replace the metal that is gone. Should I blast first or after replacing the body panels? I am sure these questions have been asked before but I am trying to be thorough as my car does present some challenges and I am a complete amateur with no experience. I don't want to screw it up, and I agree that not much may come back after dipping. Perhaps I should take the advice to get another car?
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

That sounds like a lot of sheet metal and a lot of dollars. Before you dip or do anything else, I'd urge you to get a quote on replacing everything that you think needs to be replaced and then add a significant (50% or so) fudge factor.

It's easy to get invested in a car that, in truth, isn't worth the cost to get it back on the road. If this is just a plain Jane, I'd consider looking for something from the American southwest and start over.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Mike, If she was mine I would start by doing a full evaluation of each of the pieces of tin as separate units. Looking at the pic's you have, and again if she was mine, I would based on what I can see be thinking of replacing full floor, full trunk, both drops (they are cheap enough), both inner wheel houses, both outer wheel houses. What I can't tell from what I viewed is the condition of your inner/outer rockers, quarters, toe boards, firewall, the cowl (I did see the dash damage though) and if you remember my roof same thing thing I would would replace the one on your car. Then make a informed decision by checking the prices of what you know you have to replace and get prices on the things you are unsure about then you can decide whats the best route, compare the costs of repair vs new body. remember though that if you go with another body unless reproduction new tin you may have repairs to add to the purchase cost. If at the end of the day you decide to work with what you have and this is exactly what I'm doing then sandblast those parts that you think are salvageable and only those parts save the money that would be spent blasting and dipping trash for replacement tin. I'm just getting ready put mine up one the cart and start the rocker replacement then floor and trunk and on up and out from there.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Not sure if this will help you or scare you. I bought basically everything for the back half except firewall/cowl, roof supports, quarter door frame assembles (these incl rockes so need to adjust down for that), rear package tray and the rear seat back braces that cost me approximately 5400.00CAD and bought close to your home area at Hot Rods and Classics in Chilliwack.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

I am not scared off at all. I just want to make sure that I am doing the right thing with the plain jane. It will cost a lot to restore but so will a new car. If I get enought advice to abandon ship I will, otherwise I am comitted to finishing her off. Cost is an object by the way.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Its still salvageable IMO but still would be leery of dipping it with that much obvious damage and would hate to see it go in and come apart at the seems. One of biggest reasons I'm going through all this is to know shes rust free and good for years to come and unless I do it myself who knows what could be hidden in any one of these cars. I forgot to mention in my other post I also got the frame rails and spring pockets for that price.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

Mike,

I have to say that I think dipping is the way to go but you MUST be prepared for what you're gonna find. Based on my experience with dipping cars (3 in the last 5 years) I can tell you are gonna have a lot of metal work that needs to be done once you get it back. You'll need a full trunk floor, inner and outer wheel wells and probably a dash at a minimum and that's only cause I can't see the floor, quarters or rockers in your pics. Talk to the folks at Redi-Strip, they know what they're doing. Here's some pics of one the cars that I had stripped. It's the only way to go if you only want to do it once and you want to get every bit of rust.

http://www.barefootdave.com/z10/

http://www.barefootdave.com/z10/dipped/

PM or e-mail me if you have any questions.
 
Re: Last Cahnce to Save Her From The Dipper!

mike, your car is looking good
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Hey Dave the floor does seem to be fine and I am not sure about the quarters. I was planning to stip the quarters by hand so I know what to expect before I dip. I am so facinated by the extremes opinions of dipping vs blasting. Have you used redistrip before? Did you have any problem with leaching? Also how quickly did you have to get the car into primer? People say it has to go right away. I think you are right though regarding finding out what I really have. As long as acid does not leach out latter I will if nothing else be rid of all of the rust. The use a reverse electrolosis process that actually seperates the rust from the metal as oppossed to forcing it of or scrapping it off. Will I loose any metal in the process. One blaster I talked to said that I would loose a lot of metal in the process and that my car would become weak. Since I am not an expert I have to ask a lot of questions. Dipping is more expensive, but it saves me more money in the end then that is way to go provided all of the dipping myths are false. I agree that acid dipping can be a scary concept but my understanding is that the acid is very weak, which is why the car sits in a tank for several days. Also I don't think I can use an etching primer once it is dipped. Thanks for all of you suggestions and pictures. It really helps.

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My two cents worth...

Whether you strip or blast you need to find a reliable shop to do this work. This step in the process will determine the future of your car. If the dip shop doesn't do professional work you will have more problems now and later than if you strip. If you strip, I would rcommend you discuss at length what media will be used. If he uses too aggressive a media you will have small dimples all over the metal. I would also recommend you cut awat the quarter panels if you know you're going to replace them. The easier it is for them to reach the hard to reach places the better.

The question of if it's worth it is a question only you can answer. Yes you do have a lot of rusty metal that will need replacing. You will discover more once it's stripped or blasted. I will tell you it gets expensive quick! I had to replace a lot of sheet metal (paid to have it done) but I've looked at my car from the perspective I'm building a new car. I know what the new version of the Camaro costs and I'll have near that in my car. But my car will be a real 69 Camaro built the way I want it!

Either way, have fun, build it the way you want it, and enjoy your ride!
 
I considered it on my 68 but the local stripper doesn't do full bodies anymore. If I had gotten it done ...knowing what lies below now...I would have cut some areas out prior to allow even better exposure to dip and especially rinse/neutralizing. Specifically rotted rockers, quarter areas, lower drop offs, inner tail panel,etc. Not enough to really jeoparidize (sp?) affect structure.. I had mine blasted and when replacing panels wish I had cleaner areas to spot weld to ....being better stripped than I could do with roloc discs. In fact I wish I had done some of that before media blasting.
 
Hi Mike,

Yes, I'm familiar with the Redi-strip process. It was a Redi-strip in Allentown PA that did the car you see the pics of in the links. The one concern I have for you is that you are gonna get in way over your head very quickly both in money and work required. I'm in no way degrading your car but for a "plain jane 6 banger" as you describe it you will be WAY upside down in the cost/value in no time and that's before you actually get any paint on her.

A couple things. Yes, you'll lose some metal with dipping....it eats the rust away right to the good metal. The Redi-strip I used baked the paint loose and then it was a three step process of dipping, rinsing, dipping, rinsing and then heating to dry it out. As soon as we got it back to the shop we etched it completely and then I used POR 15 on all the hidden parts and inside the rockers and frame rails. I've not seen any leeching but that's because I made 100% sure the body was ready to be pained before it was.

I highly recommend dipping over blasting but like I said in the first post it is NOT for the faint at heart but is absolutely the best way to build a car from scratch....with a fresh canvas...so to speak.
 
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