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What is the best carburetor cleaning solution and kit or method

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Winch

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm going to attempt to rebuild a Q-jet just for the experience. What is the best solution to soak everything in and maybe a kit that would include a bucket and basket etc? I understand commercial cleaners aren't near as good as they used to be.

A few years ago I tried to rebuild a junk Holley by starting with cleaning it using muriatic acid. Big mistake. I could have died from the fumes it gave off immediately when immersed. Watching a utube today the guy recommended muriatic acid but he cut it like 16 oz to 1 1/2 gallons of water. I don't remember now but I may have used full strength! Doh

BTW I may not know how to search on something like this here. I didn't get any hits when searching on variations of the title of this thread. I would think there would be some?
 
#2 ·
Ultrasonic cleaner.
www.camaros.net

Ultrasonic cleaner

Spotted this the other day and pulled the trigger. 10 liters should be plenty big enough to dunk the carb I'm rebuilding: https://www.walmart.com/ip/10L-Digital-Cleaning-Machine-Ultrasonic-Cleaner-Bath-Tank-Timer-Heated-Machine-US-Plug-110V/761774180 I haven't received it yet so I can't say...
www.camaros.net www.camaros.net
 
#5 ·
They sell a gallon sized can of carb cleaner at the parts stores that comes with a basket inside made specifically for home carb rebuilds.The stuff flat out stinks so you'll want to make sure to use it in a well ventilated garage or better yet outside if you can.It usually changes the color of the carb body so if you're seeking that OE look it might not look the same but for cleaning a carb I have never seen anything better.
There is one called Chem-Dip and there are others out there too.It burns so wear rubber gloves that are thick,not those 3 mil cheapo gloves and use safety glasses too,you do not want this stuff to get in your eyes.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
My research so far has identified 2 specific carb cleaners that come with baskets. Berryman's Chem-Dip and Gunk. Both come in 3/4 gal cans and the best places to get it are Amazon for Chem-Dip and Rural King for Gunk.

Anyone have experience using both and maybe Acetone as well? Any of those 3 better than the others?
 
#7 ·
I have a can of the Gunk stuff. It works good. I got it at the local auto parts store. It can be used over and over.
 
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#8 ·
I wouldn't soak it. I would use the small plastic tip spray cans of carb/brake cleaner and thoroughly clean out the small passages. The soak-type cleaners will strip the finish and not clean the small passages any better IMHO. Wear a face shield !
You can put the tip right in the small holes and the pressure helps clean them out.
Buy Cliff Ruggles book. You can also get a custom rebuild kit from Cliff; tell him the specs of your car.

279953
 
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#9 ·
I think it really depends what your looking for, When I rebuild carbs, I take them apart and use a can of carb clean with the small hose attached. I clean out all ports with it and then use compressed air to blow it off. not real concerned about the body , just the orifices.
 
#10 ·
Do Not use muriatic acid!!! It will eat the pot metal and aluminum in a very short time.
I bought a can of GUNK carb cleaner decades ago. It is caustic and will eat your skin, but does a good job on the carbon and gunk in the carb. Make sure you ventilate and rinse the carb when done. I dip the carb in hot water after cleaning and blow it dry. The heat from the hot water helps the drying.
Do Not use muriatic acid please. It works well on steel for removing rust - outdoors.
Ron
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I think I've decided not to rebuild. I have a similar Q-jet sent off to Cliff Ruggles' associate to have it rebuilt and calibrated for my 350. The one I was going to rebuild would be just for the experience. But once I started pricing everything I would need to get, (rebuild kit, bushing kit, Marine Tex, some tools, etc) I come up with 150 - 200.

I disassembled the one I have and used it as a visual aid while reading Cliff Ruggles' book and that was very helpful. I really got a better understanding of how it works even after reading the book 3 - 4 times w/o the aid.

I am going to soak and clean it up with M E K (Methyl Ethyl Ketone). Then reassemble it and put it on the shelf. I have a gallon of that from the last time I get this itch. I'll post some pics when I get that done.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Soaked the main body in MEK for about 20 hours. Then used a small brass brush to remove more stuff. Not too bad. First pic is it in the MEK after 20 hours. The MEK was clear when poured in the bucket. The pics make the barrels look like they are full of crud but they're not. I guess it's just some carbon crusted on. Not sure how to get that off.
 
#13 ·
NashvilleCat said:
I wouldn't soak it. I would use the small plastic tip spray cans of carb/brake cleaner and thoroughly clean out the small passages. The soak-type cleaners will strip the finish and not clean the small passages any better IMHO. Wear a face shield !
You can put the tip right in the small holes and the pressure helps clean them out.
Buy Cliff Ruggles book. You can also get a custom rebuild kit from Cliff; tell him the specs of your car.

View attachment 279953
Click to expand...
Wear safety glasses so you don't spray in your eyes.
 
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NashvilleCat
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