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Discussion starter · #41 ·
1968 Camaro project journal for April 2023

4-1-23: Parking brake cables are installed. I poured 5 gallons of 91 octane (alcohol free) gasoline into the new Camaro gas tank. I cranked the engine a few times to get the fuel pumping to the carbs. I figured everyone that rebuilds the entire fuel system will have at least one leak. Yep, the fuel filter fitting leaked. I tightened the clamp which stopped the drip.

4-2-23: Remember I had a fuel leak yesterday? I continued to have fuel leaks today. I decided to completely redo the fuel lines since these fancy stainless steel braided fuel lines look cool but are problematic and prone to leak. I went to the parts store and got a couple feet of rubber fuel hose.

4-3-23: I fixed the fuel leaks and I got the fuel flowing from the gas tank now.

4-4-23: I got the engine warmed up and it started running better. I backed it out of shop under its own power. I drove around the yard and backed in, so I would have more room to work on the passenger door. I'm happy the car drove, that means the engine, transmission, clutch, driveshaft, rear differential, power steering, suspension, etc. is all operational. It didn't overheat or leak. Perhaps not quite "road worthy" but it's getting close.

4-5-23: I started the door hinge rebuild today. Those new hinge pins are a booger to install.

4-6-23: Day two of rebuilding the door hinges. I have three done and one more hinge to do tomorrow. Additionally, I need to finish patching a rust hole and adjust the passenger's door. Those old doors are heavy. I have the door hung up with a couple of ratchet straps and a floor jack supports the bottom until the hinges are bolted into place.

4-7-23: The passenger side lower door hinge pin was stubborn. But I managed to bang it out with a heavy hammer. I used my Harbor Freight arbor press to push on the hinge pin bushings.

4-8-23: Today I discovered the internal plate that allows hinge adjustment had slipped down into the rusty part of the door (remember I had to patch a small hole here). I pretty much dinked around trying to use small screwdrivers stuck into the bolt holes to move the plate back into place, which was an exercise in futility. I ended up removing the fiberglass patch I had made, thus allowing me to reach in with two fingers to move the metal plate back into position.

4-11-23: I spent hours trying to adjust the hinges and door gaps.

4-12-23: I worked a long time today, but didn't get finished with the door hinge adjustment. But, good progress was made. Two steps forward and one step backwards.

4-14-23: I spent half of today adjusting the passenger side door. The door now closes even with the window rolled up. The gap in front of the door is wide and the gap at the rear of the door is narrow.

4-17-23: Still trying to finish the door hinge adjustment. It's almost there (I think).

4-18-23: I used Bondo filler on the quarter panel and sprayed another coat of paint on. I think the Camaro is right at being a 10-footer. If you stay at least 10-feet away, the body and paint look okay.

4-19-23: I did some paint touch up to the Camaro.

4-21-23: I had some honey-do projects, like staining the rear house deck.

4-26-23: Garage expansion project, making a lean-to for more storage (too much junk).

4-30-23: I finally got back to the Camaro. I checked fluids and added a bit of power steering fluid. It started but it sounded like the rockers arms were clattering. I will remove the valve covers to see if the roller rockers are hitting the low profile valve covers. I have spacers if that is a problem. Time to put quieter mufflers on so I can hear what's going on when testing the engine. I already have most of the exhaust parts that are needed. The Cherry Bomb glass packs I currently have are crazy loud. It was fun at first but I'm tired of them now. I must be getting old.
 
1968 Camaro project journal for March 2023

3-1-23: I discovered a ½" diameter rust hole in the passenger door. The only way you can see it is to open the door and look just below the lower hinge. I cleaned the rust off with an angle grinder. The hole was about 2" diameter by the time I got done. I sprayed Rust Reformer into the hole. I had put the door panel back on on the driver side but had forgot the felt strip (dew wipe). I removed the door panel again and installed the dew wipe. It took a long time to adjust the hinges, door glass, and door latch. I finally got the door to close all the way. It'll be better when the rubber seals compress a bit more.

3-5-23: I made a door corner patch from an extra piece of sheet metal and some fiberglass. Next, I installed the lower passenger door weatherstripping, which was a lot of tedious work.

3-6-23: I finished up the weatherstripping and got the interior back together (once again).

3-7-23: I reinstalled the header mufflers to get a bit more ground clearance. They were hanging a little low and I was afraid they might drag. I did some door and window adjustments on the passenger side.

3-9-23: The last couple of days I had to wear my insulated coveralls to stay warm while working on the Camaro. It should be back up to near 60 in a couple of days. I've been working on mostly little stuff. I was able scratch off a couple items off the "to do" list and then find something else to add back to the list. Next up (when the weather improves), install the new stereo. I bought an AM/FM Retro-Sound brand radio that looks OEM, but also has Bluetooth, aux plug for a mp3 player, and an USB port to play music from a flash drive. A pair of Polk Audio 4" speakers will be mounted in the front lower kick panels and a pair of Polk Audio 6.5" speakers mounted on the rear shelf.

3-10-23: I took the back seat out and removed the rear shelf cover. I was able to use a couple of the existing mounting bolt holes on each speaker. I drilled a couple new holes which required me to climb into the trunk and lay on my back to drill. You can't go from the top because the rear window slope interferes with a drill. I'll probably be messing around installing this stereo for the next few days.

3-12-23: I worked on the Camaro sound system today. I cut holes in the kick panels for the 4" round speakers, but I'm still waiting on those speakers to be delivered. I have a pair of 6.5" round speakers installed on the rear shelf. However, I still need to run the speaker wires.

3-13-23: I got the old stereo head unit out of the dash and the new retro radio installed. Sounds simple when I say it like that. But laying up-side-down removing the back strap bolt one handed by feel wasn't easy. Out with the old and in with the new. I haven't started the wiring yet.

3-15-23: Yesterday and today, I worked on the Camaro's stereo system. The head unit is in the dash and looks good. Four speakers are fully installed, finally. It took longer than expected. The speakers are wired up. I ran all the wires out of sight (hidden) for a clean looking install. A lot of zip ties were used. I need to run another +12v power wire to the fuse box and one more ground wire.

3-16-23: I finished wiring the stereo. When I tested it, the unit lights up and everything seems to work okay except there is no sound. After googling and rereading the manual, I figured out the radio's amp probably went into protection mode. This probably means I have the speakers wired wrong or they are grounding out somewhere. That means I have to take it apart again.

3-17-23: The amp had indeed gone into protection mode. One of the front speaker connectors was touching a metal support brace which caused it to ground out. I fixed the problem and put it back together. It works like a charm now. I listened to a couple songs with the volume set at the halfway mark. The sound quality is good, although the bass is a bit weak with those little 4" front speakers, but that was expected. I have an extra sub and amp that might eventually get installed.

3-19-23: I installed a new “shorty” antenna a while back. Today, I ran the antenna coaxial under the dash along the bottom of the glove box. It's now plugged into the new radio. I sanded some more on the rear fender and then noticed a couple wet drips on the floor. It was brake fluid. I tightened the brake fitting and the leak stopped. I plan to check all the brake fittings again before I try driving it.

3-20-23: I made a trip to Autozone for sound deadening mats (reduces rattles and road noise). I have it on the ceiling, floor, and trunk already, but I needed a little more for the rear shelf. I worked on putting the Camaro interior back together, again. I also went crazy with zip ties to tame the wiring. I tried the stereo again to make sure I hadn't messed up the wires. Sounds pretty good.

3-21-23: I had the rear speakers bottom-mounted on the rear shelf. But I took another look at the setup and decided top-mounted speakers would be better in this situation. So, I reinstalled the speakers and cut holes into the rear shelf cover. The new Polk Audio speakers were topped with cool looking grilles.

3-22-23: I vacuumed up some loose debris and put the rear seat back in. I replaced the old chrome plated plastic “Astro Ventilation” outlets, which were full of mud dauber nests. Good thing the shop vac was still handy. The bucket seat felt like it was too low in the back, so I shimmed up the rear bolts on the driver seat. I re-glued some weatherstripping that had come loose. I did a few other odds and ends while I was still inside the car. The interior should now be (stick a fork in it) done.

3-23-23: I put the front end up on jack stands and inspected the brake and fuel line fittings. I also checked for loose bolts and nuts. I noticed a tiny bit of engine oil had oozed out of the oil pan gasket along the length of four pan bolts. The natural thing to do is grab a wrench and tighten them back up. I built this engine 36 years ago with Fel-Pro gaskets, but even so, the pan gasket is probably a little brittle. I used a heat gun to warm up the gasket in hopes to make it more pliable. I gently tightened each oil pan bolts until they just got snug. I’ll keep an eye on this to see if it gets better or worse.

3-24-23: I did more quarter panel sanding. I had watched a couple of videos on how to use Bondo filler on large area such as quarter panels. One thing I learned was to start sanding the Bondo before it cures (1-2 hours after application). I had previously waited until the next day to sand it and the filler was always super hard. I mixed up a batch of Bondo and spread a thin layer over the area where it still wavy (slightly warped from welding). I must say that sanding Bondo before it completely cures works great. Okay, enough making it look pretty. Right now I should concentrate on getting it road worthy.

3-25-23: I discovered the corner of the passenger side upper control arm and one of the bolts were touching an exhaust header tube. I loosened the shaft bolts partway and then used an angle grinder to add some clearance. After that I did a bunch more sanding on the quarter panel.

3-26-23: It was cold today, so I removed the side marker lights and brought them into the warm house to clean and polish. I knew the plastic lenses rattled around, which bugged me, so I made several failed attempts to shim up the old gasket. I made a new gasket, but it was too thick. Then, I tried a rubber washer on each side and that worked. I reinstalled the side marker lights. No more rattling lenses.

3-27-23: Still a little bit cold, so I did a bunch of hand sanding to keep warm.

3-28-23: I began installing the parking brake cables today. First thing I did was spray some Liquid Wrench onto the foot pedal assembly and I got it freed up. The main cable was still attached and in working order. I saw no reason to mess with it. I tried installing the smaller cables onto the calipers. But I had a bit of trouble at this point and rewatched a couple of YouTube’s “how to” videos. I figured out what I was doing wrong and finally got the new caliper cables installed.

3-29-23: The intermediate cables were going together okay until I came up missing a clip and also, despite using Liquid Wrench, I twisted off the long threaded adjuster on the end of the main cable. I have a new main cable that I’ll be using after all (assuming I can remove and install that part).

3-30-23: The old main parking brake cable fought me pretty good, but once it was off, the new one went on as smooth as butter. I just need to finish up some adjustments and it’ll be done.

3-31-23: Parking brakes were adjusted and works fine. The car was still up on jack stands, so I painted the driveshaft charcoal gray since I had an extra can. The new front wheels were delivered today. They’ve been on back order from Summit Racing for about 4 months. These wheels are the new US Mag “Indy” version of aluminum slotted wheels. I love the old school retro/vintage look.

View attachment 304518

Photo of the new retro radio in the dash plus 4" speakers in the kick panel. This photo also shows that I need to do some cleaning and restoration. Several of the black plastic panels look chalky which means there is UV (sun) damage.
Awesome! Love the journal!
It grows!
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
1968 Camaro project journal for May 2023

5-3-23: I had found a loose rocker arm, so I rechecked all of them. The rest looked okay.

5-5-23: I pieced together some 3” exhaust pipes and big quiet chambered mufflers (my wife calls them old geezer mufflers). Honestly, they were not as quiet as I thought they’d be. I guess a big block with 3” exhaust pipes is never going to be super quiet.

5-7-23: I can’t get the big mufflers to fit (they hang too low). I ordered a pair of Summit Racing welded turbo mufflers. Been doing a lot of mind numbing little things. I won’t bore you with details.

5-8-23: Took the headlights out and found the wire connectors were corroded.

5-9-23: I got the Camaro headlights working and reinstalled. I got the brake lights working too, but the pedal switch still needs adjustment.

5-12-23: The brake light switch is adjusted. I had noticed that one rear parking brake cable was rubbing on a back tire. It took a few zipties, but I got the brake cables secured. Then, I took the exhaust pipes and mufflers apart again. I'm in the process of making it fit better. I had a brake line too close to the muffler on one side and the fuel line too close on the other side.

5-14-23: I found another seeping brake line fitting. I went through and recheck all the brake stuff again. Half of the fittings were super tight, but there were several that snugged down a bit more. Still working on mufflers. I decided to install manual cutouts.

5-17-23: I unloaded my trailer and repacked the wheel bearings with grease. I need to haul the Camaro 20 miles to get it inspected and registered.

5-20-23: I removed the exhaust system I had and started trial fitting exhaust parts (again).

5-23-23: I installed different mufflers for the Camaro and finally I'm satisfied with the exhaust.

5-27-23: I did more paint touch-up and painted the inside door jambs.

5-29-23: I spent a couple hours adjusting the Camaro's passenger door hinges and finally got the door to close easier. The gaps are better, but not perfect. That's good enough for now.

5-30-23: I loaded the Camaro onto the trailer. I have to get the car inspected by the State Police because it has an out of state title. They check to make sure the VIN has not been tampered with and that it matches what's on the title. The Camaro passed no problem.

6-5-23: The Camaro is now street legal (license plate, registration, and insurance). Since the vehicle is more than 35 years old, I got an "antique" plate which only cost $15 per year.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Yep, hopefully I''ll start driving it within the next few days. I have to deal with one more leak. I am soooo close.

I have several youtube hot rodders that I watch. One of them is Dan from DD Speed Shop. He said that on a new build, the first 1 mile, 10 miles, 100 miles, and then 1000 miles are major accomplishments. My Camaro's new odometer still says 000000 miles.

Puddin from Oklahoma says, "You won't finish your project if you're sitting on your butt.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
1968 Camaro project journal for the first half of June 2023

6-2-23: I finally got the door hinges adjusted so they close and fit right. A section of weatherstrip came loose, so I had to reattach that.

6-5-23: The Camaro is now street legal (title, license plate, registration, and insurance).

6-6-23: The Camaro was starting and running okay until about a week ago. Then it quit and I could not get it to fire up again. I thought it was a fuel problem at first. But the fuel system seems okay after a lot of wasted time troubleshooting. I finally figured out today that the ignition coil is not getting 12v when I turn the key to the "on" position. I have power at the fuse box, but not at the coil. I suspect the fancy MSD (brand) ignition coil is fried but maybe it's just a wiring problem?

6-7-23: It took a while, but I found the starting problem. It was a loose terminal on the power wire where it plugs into the fuse box. Once it was fixed and reconnected, I had power to the ignition coil again. The engine started right up. I only had two more items on my "to do" list that were not crossed out. The shifter was binding up due to the rubber boot. I got it working better. Last thing wrong was a loose rear shock bolt. I had to remove one wheel, but otherwise it was an easy fix.

6-8-23 to 6-15-23: I got lazy and didn’t write anything in my Camaro project journal for a week. I don’t remember what I did during that time period.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
1968 Camaro project journal for the last half of June 2023

6-16-23: I installed a heat shield on the brake line that ran a little close to the muffler. I also put in a longer fuel hose that goes from the pump to the carbs. The one that was being used was too short and had partially kinked. So, I rerouted the new longer hose with a few zip ties to hold it in place.

6-18-23: I thought the shifter boot was too stiff, but it was mainly two linkage rods rubbing. I tried for a couple hours to fix it. I looked up installation diagrams and YouTube videos. Conclusion: I screwed up. When I bought this Muncie M22 transmission, I was told it was originally out of a 1970 Corvette. It came with a Hurst Competition Plus shifter already installed. I read on the forum that the early Camaro used the same Competition Plus shifter. But what I didn’t know was that the 1967-1968 Camaro required a different linkage kit. Parts are now ordered.

6-22-23: Hurst shifter linkage kit and battery shut-off switch were delivered. I started installing the parts, but had to make a trip into town for more parts and some hardware.

6-24-23: The rear differential in the Camaro started oozing gear lube. I snugged the cover plate bolts down a bit which stopped the leak. Looks like I got lucky. Sometimes tightening the bolts make the leak worse (especially if the gasket is old and brittle).

6-25-23: I got the master battery shut-off switch and the shifter linkage kit partial installed.

6-26-23: I found a spot on the concrete floor where engine oil had leaked. Apparently, the oil pressure gauge sensor fittings that I had cobbled up will need to be redone. The nearby exhaust header makes the situation more complex. I made another trip into town.

6-27-23: After a little (okay, maybe a lot?) of trial and error, I finally have the oil pressure sensor mounted to the block and wired up. The oil pressure gauge now works like a charm.

6-28-23: I did more fine tuning to the Hurst shifter linkage. Not sure why, but the 1-2 shift linkage seems to clunky. It won’t always go all the way down into second gear. I’ve even backed off the stop bolt. Today the temps hit the triple digits (first time this summer). About mid-day, I got tired of sweating, so I went inside to worship the goddess of central air conditioning.

6-29-23: Another triple digit scorcher. Not much work was done on the Camaro today. I put my tools away early (about noon) due to the gawd awful heat.

6-30-23: It was yet another scorcher today. Nothing done on the Camaro. I did some work on the ‘36 Ford truck. The heat spell should be over for now.
 
Discussion starter · #48 · (Edited)
ANNOUNCEMENT

7-2-23: I think my daily journal has run its course. The project has reached a turning point. I drove the Camaro to the post office and back today. The Camaro did okay on the test drive and didn’t leak or break down. The goal of being road worthy was achieved. The only problem was that the brake pedal felt spongy, so I probably need to bleed the brakes again. I will continue to post important updates. Just not in a daily journal format. I still have things to finish (i.e. windshield washer system, backup lights, radiator shroud, etc.). What a long, strange trip it's been. The cool thing is I did everything myself.
 
Well done. The first drive is the one you remember the most. The feeling that comes next to a builder, either is relief and elation for a job well done, or a little bit of a let-down for lack of work left to do. Here's hoping that your is the 1st. Drive with confidence.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
I bled the brakes again and got a few bubbles of air out of all 4 corners of the Camaro. The pedal is much firmer now. I found an exhaust pipe that was a little loose. I added another muffler hanger which fixed the problem. I spent a lot of time redoing my wheel alignment. I had it all screwed up. I need to take for another test ride. I'm old retired and have gray hair, but for some reason I want to burn some rubber on Main Street (downtown).
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Yeah, not many photos have been posted lately. To summarize, 1968 Camaro SS/RS, 408 big block with dual quad induction, Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum heads, Comp Cams magnum 280H cam kit, Muncie M22 "rock crusher" with Hurst Competition Plus floor shifter, 12-bolt rear with limited slip and 3.55 gears, BMR 2" drop springs, old school 15" slotted mags, 4-wheel disc brakes, variable ratio power steering, refreshed deluxe interior, 3-point retractable seat and shoulder belts, vintage looking modern electronic gauges installed in the factory location, retro radio, etc.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Mid July 2023: I took a longer test ride and had problems with the 1-2 shifter linkage binding up. The only gear I could get was third. So, I limped it home in third gear. I had to partially rebuild the Hurst Competition Plus shifter and do some adjusting. But now it's working like a charm.

Bad news: the hydraulic cam and lifters are getting wiped out. The rocker arms keep loosening up and tiny metal flakes are showing up in the oil. I'm going to try flushing the innards with clean oil (spin the oil pump manually with a drill and change oil again) and try to do a cam swap with the engine in the car. Getting the oil pan and lower timing cover to seal will be a challenge. I'm going to swap in a solid (mechanical) cam and lifters. The retro fit roller cams are a bit too expensive. Besides, this is an old school build and solid lifter cams definitely sound old school.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Scott, you're right, but I'm trying to stay optimistic.

I'm going to pull the intake manifold off and inspect the lifters. That seems to be the best next step. Oil pressure has not decreased and compression is still strong. Unless I see catastrophic failure, I'll probably try flushing it out and install a new cam and lifters. If this motor does need to be rebuilt, I'll probably set it aside and buy a stroker short block.
 
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Discussion starter · #57 ·
I've removed the intake manifold and disassembled the rocker arms, pushrods, and lifters. There is no visible carnage and lifters look okay until you check the crown that rides on the cam lobe. It's completely flat on about six of the lifters. I checked it like how Uncle Tony said to do it (on YouTube). I was being ultra vigilant since I built this big block 36 years ago and I was nervous about whether it would hold up. The rocker arms loosening up was my clue. I felt with poly locks they should not get loose at all. I readjusted them and drove it around the block. I could hear the lifters clattering again. Maybe the filter caught most of the tiny metal flakes? The flakes seemed to be mostly suspended in the oil rather than settling out like heavy flakes do (suggesting it might flush out). But, I plan to pull the camshaft and inspect the lobes and bearings before making a decision. Oh, by the way, looking at the witness marks that the roller rocker made on the valve stem looks great. It's right down the middle like it should be.
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
Apparently, I was right to suspect that the cam lobes and lifter crowns were going "bye-bye" on my Comp Cams flat tappet hydraulic cam and lifters (280H Magnum). I admit that I didn't use a zinc additive in the engine during initial break-in back in 1986 (ran 20 minutes at 2k RPM). No use pointing fingers and playing the blame game. I just want to fix the problem and move on.

I ordered a new retro-fit roller cam and lifters. I've been a Comp Cams guy for the last 40 years. However, once bitten, twice shy. I decided to try a Howards Cams kit (CL-120245-12). I also got a 2-piece aluminum front timing cover with cam button to prevent cam walk and a new fuel pump pushrod with a bronze tip. My MSD Pro-Billet Ready-to-Run distributor already had iron melonized gears.

My biggest concern is clean-up. I know the proper thing to do is a complete tear down. This is not a big bucks build or a numbers matching engine. My red-neck oil flushing will ruffle a few feathers. Sorry in advance. I drained the oil and replaced the filter. I put clean oil back in, manually spun the oil pump with a drill for 10 minutes, then immediately drained the oil and changed the filter again. I'm still waiting on parts, so I will probably flush it out one more time.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
I put a magnetic drain plug in and manually flushed more oil through the engine. I drained the oil again, but only saw a half dozen tiny metal flakes on the drain plug. I pulled the old cam out and inspected the cam bearings. They looked surprisingly clean. I think the oil filter caught most of the metal flakes. I will be watching oil pressure like a hawk.

I spent a long-time scraping gaskets and cleaning parts. I swapped in the new cam and retro-fit link-bar lifters. A nylon cam button was added to the timing cover to prevent cam "walk." Once that was done, the new rigid aluminum timing chain cover was installed. A new fuel pump pushrod (with a bronze tip) and the Holley fuel pump were installed.

I'm making progress despite the triple digit heat wave. It'll probably take me another couple of days to put the engine back together. While disassembling the engine I pulled the OEM harmanic balancer off and discovered the rubber was loose (I could wiggle it by hand). I bought a new ATI Super Damper and will rent a balancer installation tool.

I will report back when the engine is fully reassembled.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
I spent lots of time cleaning up the innards of the engine. The new retrofit roller cam and lifters are installed, plus an aluminum timing cover, not to mention a cam button and fuel pump pushrod. Long story short, it wouldn't fire up at first. I had made an embarrassing rookie error and had put the dizzy in 180 degrees off. I went back to TDC #1 and reinstalled the distributor. It fired up and the oil pressure stayed slightly above 65 psi). I set the initial timing and noticed the lower rad hose was leaking, so I shut it down. Tightening the hose clamp stopped the coolant drip. Then I changed the engine oil and filter again. Not much glitter was found. The magnetic drain plug had five tiny metal flakes. I haven't cut open the filter yet. I plan to continue changing oil very frequently (cheap insurance).

Ritalin version: a bunch of cleanup was done. New roller hydraulic cam and lifters were installed. Engine runs good and has excellent oil pressure.
 
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