I have 3 very small wires that need to be connected like a butt connector but able to be disconnected like a bullet connector. These are indicator light wires and are very very small. What connector would you electrical experts recommend?
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Tiny little wires.. what to connect them with?
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I have 3 very small wires that need to be connected like a butt connector but able to be disconnected like a bullet connector. These are indicator light wires and are very very small. What connector would you electrical experts recommend?
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Frank, I would probably use a Molex connector. They're kind of fussy to work with because they're small but they work well. You'll see similar in computer case internal connections. Digikey or Mouser are good suppliers or maybe you have a local computer repair shop that could fix you up.
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I guess you completely missed the point that they need to be able to disconnect.
I second Al's vote on this one. I'm not sure what gauge "very, very small" is but here is an example:
I’m with Al and Shannon Frank….I used these on the electric mirrors. They are about 7/16 square…from memory anyway.
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If what you pictured goes through an 8MM hole, and you wanted to replace the light assembly as some point, I would suggest single bullet connectors which after a quick search shows they make them in under 8mm diameters.
I found this that matches your picture but I don't know for sure if it is what you are wanting to use:
Alpinetech PL8MS 8mm 5/16" 12V LED Metal Indicator Dash Instrument Panel Light with Symbol (Turn Signal)
Indicator Light, Pilot Light and Switches
alpinetech.com
It seems to me I've done something like this before but I would crimp on an 8MM or smaller female connector on the ground wire of the indicator bulb and then a male which should be smaller in it's outside diameter crimped onto the positive wire of the indicator light.
When assembly time comes, take the backup nut and lockwasher off of the indicator light assembly and slip one wire and connector through the nut and washer and then do the other. Both will not pass at one time.
Now, put the basic indicator light through the dash hole, and then on the backside pass one wire though the lights lock washer and then the other and then do the same, one wire at a time adding on the lock nut.
You can then plug in the male bullet terminal on the light assemblies power wire to a female bullet connector off of your harness and then plug in the male bullet off of the light assembly to a female bullet connector which would be a ground wire out of the cars wiring harness.
If you were to get non-insulated single wire crimp connectors, you could add heat shrink over things to prevent shorts.
Jim
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You 100% have the concept of what I need and what i'm doing. Yes, 8mm so the smallest bullet connector I can find is what I need.If what you pictured goes through an 8MM hole, and you wanted to replace the light assembly as some point, I would suggest single bullet connectors which after a quick search shows they make them in under 8mm diameters.
I found this that matches your picture but I don't know for sure if it is what you are wanting to use:
Alpinetech PL8MS 8mm 5/16" 12V LED Metal Indicator Dash Instrument Panel Light with Symbol (Turn Signal)
Indicator Light, Pilot Light and Switches
It seems to me I've done something like this before but I would crimp on an 8MM or smaller female connector on the ground wire of the indicator bulb and then a male which should be smaller in it's outside diameter crimped onto the positive wire of the indicator light.
When assembly time comes, take the backup nut and lockwasher off of the indicator light assembly and slip one wire and connector through the nut and washer and then do the other. Both will not pass at one time.
Now, put the basic indicator light through the dash hole, and then on the backside pass one wire though the lights lock washer and then the other and then do the same, one wire at a time adding on the lock nut.
You can then plug in the male bullet terminal on the light assemblies power wire to a female bullet connector off of your harness and then plug in the male bullet off of the light assembly to a female bullet connector which would be a ground wire out of the cars wiring harness.
If you were to get non-insulated single wire crimp connectors, you could add heat shrink over things to prevent shorts.
Jim
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That link I had in my reply from microwings have 2MM ones ?.
Here are some 3MM sold in 10 pairs:
10 pairs of 3.0mm (Female + Male) Bullet Banana Plug Connectors
Rechargeable Batteries & Battery Chargers - Two pairs of 2mm-Bullet connector
power.tenergy.com
While I do not know you full plan, if these indicator lights are going into a panel along with other lights and stuff is still maybe put the small indicators on small single wire disconnects or maybe just bolt them in and extend the wires to a larger multiple wire connector so that you could wire up your panel on a bench with let's say left and right turn signal indicators, a high beam indicator, a low oil pressure light, a high temperature light, a gear shift indicator light, and who knows what and have this going to one master multipin connector (like 12 pin connector or maybe larger for future use additions ?) to where you could then walk out to the car, plug in one master electrical connector and bolt the panel in place.
Jim
I did miss that.
Crimp molex connectors are the ticket. I would still solder the wires to the pins along with the crimp.
Alternately, you might tin the wires and use a miniature terminal block to make things removable...
This tools works great to remove insulation without losing strands of conductor...
Here is my led to tell me when the AC is on...
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I actually thought about that but hadn't thought about tinning the wires, good suggestion. just a simple little mini terminal block on the back of the dash insert, I think might work.
A glob of epoxy would hold that terminal block onto a flat surface without needing to drill, too.
Post photos for us!
I have almost the same toggle. 20 awg wire. Just use the spade and female spade crimp on terminals that are insulated. Use the red ones that are for 16 to 20 awg. You can always double over the stripped end to have a more solid connection.
Splicing 3 wires together that also disconnects is tough.
You could use a spade lug. This thing will connect three wires, and you would be able to pull them apart. I would not recommend it because some of the metal on the lug is exposed.
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You could use a bullet connector. It is better solution.
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You have to think about how many times you are going to disconnect the wires. If they are blinker indicator lights, hopefully you will wire it one time and that is the last time you will mess with the wires.
Personally, I use terminal blocks. I JB Weld them to the inside of the dash panel. The advantage of a terminal block is that it is easy to wire different gauge wires together. You can have spare connections for future expansion.
I am able to operate a screwdriver. I am absolutely certain you have similar talents. It is easy to turn and loosen a screw rather than pull apart a plastic connector that might break after five years.
Can you see my two, four point, terminal blocks glued to the inside of my dash?
![Image]()
You could use a spade lug. This thing will connect three wires, and you would be able to pull them apart. I would not recommend it because some of the metal on the lug is exposed.
You could use a bullet connector. It is better solution.
You have to think about how many times you are going to disconnect the wires. If they are blinker indicator lights, hopefully you will wire it one time and that is the last time you will mess with the wires.
Personally, I use terminal blocks. I JB Weld them to the inside of the dash panel. The advantage of a terminal block is that it is easy to wire different gauge wires together. You can have spare connections for future expansion.
I am able to operate a screwdriver. I am absolutely certain you have similar talents. It is easy to turn and loosen a screw rather than pull apart a plastic connector that might break after five years.
Can you see my two, four point, terminal blocks glued to the inside of my dash?
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I'm leaning heavy towards the terminal blocks
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Skin off 3/4 inch of insulation from both ends of each wire on the pigtail, and from the harness wires. Slip shrink tubing over each wire on the pigtail .Twist them tightly together, solder (rosin core) them together, shrink the tube insulation tight, é voila!
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Soldering them together will make it very difficult to be removable
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