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Tony's 67 Camaro build

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Discussion starter · #81 ·
I have been putting in several hours each day at the body shop getting the 67 ready for paint...
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
#87 ·
Is that Acryl-Green putty, and filler over primer on the tulip panel? Acryl-Green was popular decades ago but is quite inferior and has been surpassed with today's superior 2K glazes. No offense but no shop I know still uses it. In fact, if you use a quality filler like Rage Ultra you rarely need glaze at all.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
Sauron67MM said:
Is that Acryl-Green putty, and filler over primer on the tulip panel? Acryl-Green was popular decades ago but is quite inferior and has been surpassed with today's superior 2K glazes. No offense but no shop I know still uses it. In fact, if you use a quality filler like Rage Ultra you rarely need glaze at all.
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No, we used Advantage finishing putty. We used the green stuff for some spots and along the edge of the rear window..
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
I installed the clips for the chrome trim around the windshield and the rear glass.
I marked the location for each with a sharpie and then drilled a tiny hole and then used the screw in studs. The clips slip on to the studs.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
We did the final primer and sanding today. We sprayed the ground coat..the first coat of Urethane. As soon as we looked at it the little dents and imperfections jumped out. We will let her dry good, fix all imperfections, sand the car again, and then paint the car again. Quarters are damn near perfect!
 
#93 ·
The fenders, doors and other bolt on sheetmetal never got jambed before painting? It is best to paint the lower valance, header panel and fender extensions off the car so they get full coverage. Or at least slightly separate the header from the fenders when painting. The grill should have been removed. I see the window clips were installed and painted over which means no paint behind them or around the base of those screw-in molding studs. I prefer to use weld-on molding studs.

Bummer. If the car was blocked right the first time you would only have to paint it once. Black cars cost more money to paint and most shops know this and charge for it. That is one of the reasons why a black car painted by another shop was sent to me to have parts redone. One of many areas not done right is they left the doors on when painting and the hinge areas had poor coverage and were dry. No paint on the door and rocker bottoms and what was there was dry as a bone. Numerous other areas were poorly done also.

I'm assuming you are going for a custom look by painting the underhood components gloss black.

Many potential buyers and car owners never notice these flaws, so it may not matter depending on who is looking at the car. It is the attention to details that can bring more money when selling a car. If only building a relatively decent driver then details and greater attention to quality are not that important.
 
Discussion starter · #94 ·
Sauron67MM said:
The fenders, doors and other bolt on sheetmetal never got jambed before painting? It is best to paint the lower valance, header panel and fender extensions off the car so they get full coverage. Or at least slightly separate the header from the fenders when painting. The grill should have been removed. I see the window clips were installed and painted over which means no paint behind them or around the base of those screw-in molding studs. I prefer to use weld-on molding studs.

Bummer. If the car was blocked right the first time you would only have to paint it once. Black cars cost more money to paint and most shops know this and charge for it. That is one of the reasons why a black car painted by another shop was sent to me to have parts redone. One of many areas not done right is they left the doors on when painting and the hinge areas had poor coverage and were dry. No paint on the door and rocker bottoms and what was there was dry as a bone. Numerous other areas were poorly done also.

I'm assuming you are going for a custom look by painting the underhood components gloss black.

Many potential buyers and car owners never notice these flaws, so it may not matter depending on who is looking at the car. It is the attention to details that can bring more money when selling a car. If only building a relatively decent driver then details and greater attention to quality are not that important.
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Yes Scott, it does look great, thanks.
 
#95 ·
bondora68 said:
Yes Scott, it does look great, thanks.
Click to expand...
I wrote what I did because many people have never had this done before, are doing a car for the first time, or are like you and sending a car to be painted by a shop. Numerous times a car owner is not satisfied with the work performed and a battle with the bodyshop ensues, or the owner is disheartened and loses time and money. If people know what to look for in the first place they may avoid a headache.
 
#96 ·
It looks great to me!

Only been a member of this forum for a few months. Bought my 68 a few months before I joined. The biggest mistake I have made, so far, is not being a member BEFORE I purchased my car.

A few things I have learned: some things to look for befor you buy; how members will help you no matter how how simple or stupid a question may seem to them; most of the info is somewhere in the posts if you can find it.

But the biggest bubble-buster is how much $$$$ you can spend on restoration. Never in my wildest dreams did I think a paint job could be $16,000 - $20,000.

So I am in the (small?) group on here who now know my long term goal is to have a solid, safe, nice 20 foot looking driver car. My 68 has been a 40 year dream of mine. And even though I have reset my expectations it's gonna be mine!

So Tony when you get through with your car...and decide it's not for you I will trade you my car and as we say in the south "a little boot". Just let me know lol!

Toyman
 
Discussion starter · #98 ·
Sauron67MM said:
I wrote what I did because many people have never had this done before, are doing a car for the first time, or are like you and sending a car to be painted by a shop. Numerous times a car owner is not satisfied with the work performed and a battle with the bodyshop ensues, or the owner is disheartened and loses time and money. If people know what to look for in the first place they may avoid a headache.
Click to expand...
I understand what you are saying but as I have stated earlier the paint shop and I am working very closely together as the owner is a friend of mine. When I say, for example, we sanded the car I mean WE sanded the car. I spent 3 days in the shop sanding and puttying and learning. He is not charging me by the hour or by the coats of paint. Our main priority at the shop with my car is to get it looking near perfect and me learning how its done. The first coat of black served 2 purposes, one to identify any remaining problem areas, and two, provide a ground coat on which we can put 2 more coats of final paint. In other words, I don't consider any of what we have done to be a waste of time.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Discussion starter · #100 ·
K and K said:
That is a deep black. Its looking like your body work will do that color justice! Nice job!!!
Click to expand...
Thank you Kevan! Nice of you to say!
 
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bondora68
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