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68Z in the begining stages (Warning PIC Heavy)

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41K views 146 replies 35 participants last post by  jcihos  
J
#1 ·
Dragged this out of a pole barn this summer in MI and brought it back to MN. This was my dads first car when he turned 16 in 1975 and hasn't been on the road since 1979. It will be a slow project but I am hoping to have it back on the road and drivable by next spring/summer. Anyways onto the pictures.

Just pulled out of the barn ready to go back to MN.

Passenger side rear quarter needs to be replaced.

Worst of the rust on the core support.

After grinding the rust off of the subframe I painted it and put new prothane bushings on.

Its starting to look like a car again as my wife says.

Front metal installed.

All new control arm bushings, ball joints, KYB shocks, and Hotchkis lower springs installed.

With wheels mocked up, new bearings installed, and O'Rileys was able to turn the original 2 piece rotors for the front.

Found the original distributor and intake in a box of parts that was with the car.


Underside in the rear of the car. Figure its worth cleaning up and undercoating before I put the rebuilt rear end back under it.



How she currently sits today.

 
L
#3 ·
Wish my dad had a Z sitting in a barn somewhere. :) Lots like some work but a great project.
 
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G
#12 ·
Take your time and do it right. You have a long road ahead of you but it'll be worth it that first time you pick up your dad for a drive and if he's no longer with us I'm sure he'll be with you through the whole process.
 
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J
#16 ·
I have a 68Z, love them. Lucky enough to have the born with engine, trans, rear-end, yada-yada. That being said, really love the restomods. Something to be said for old school lines, which are never going to go out of style, and modern , well behaved engine/trans combos. You could even go as far to make it look stock, with say a nice 383 crate. Get it on the road, keep your eyes peeled for another MO which may surface. Might be $$$ trying to build another 302 around pistons and rods. Plus trying to find a dated block , heads,etc...

My opinion is you got a Z, engine is just gone. Maybe put something between the wheel wells with a little more ***. Can never make a Z outa something born with a 6 banger. If it was your Dad's, sentimental value comes to play, so figuring it wont be for sale anytime soon, have fun with it ! Build it as you see correct
 
#17 ·
Lot of 68 Z lovers here Steve! :yes::hurray::beers::thumbsup:
And X2, enjoy the car but know its going to take some serious $$$ to get back to excellent driver or beyond. Its a labor of love and dollars.
 
#19 ·
I'd try to document the car as much as possible before getting too far along. Without any paper documentation, PoP, etc, and missing the original engine, a 68Z is tough to prove for future resale, IF the time comes. Does it have the original trans or rear end ?

I'd get pics of the cowl area showing the white out (stripe color), tire pressure sticker in the glove box, 4 leaf rear springs, tachometer if it has one, Muncie hole in the firewall, radiator and all other Z related engine goodies. Chick could probably offer some good advice here.

I'd actually recommend having Jerry M inspect the car as his certification would be invaluable for future resale....but his services don't come cheap. Being your Dad's car, I realize you probably don't plan to ever sell, but....I'm just sayin' it anyway.:eek:
 
J
#21 ·
No it doesn't have the original trans or rear end so I think it would be very difficult if not impossible to have Jerry M certify it as a real Z. I will take some pictures of the radiator, tach, and the firewall (not sure what the Muncie hole is) and post them up here later today if i have a chance.
 
J
#23 ·
4:88's help....not the best highway gear, lol, lots of fun stop light to stop light:yes:


Keep us posted, CRG is another great site. Never enough Camaro build stories, especially those with family history.

Enough typing, last few decent weeks left to get outside " honey-do list" done here in NE Ohio. Then FINALLY some quality time to re-assemble over the winter .
 
J
#25 ·
janobyte said:
4:88's help....not the best highway gear, lol, lots of fun stop light to stop light
Image



Keep us posted, CRG is another great site. Never enough Camaro build stories, especially those with family history.

Enough typing, last few decent weeks left to get outside " honey-do list" done here in NE Ohio. Then FINALLY some quality time to re-assemble over the winter .
Click to expand...
Yeah I picked the block up today and it seems to be on good shape. The guy I bought if from was actually an engine bolder so we already went through and made sure there was no cracks and such.

I am actually over on CRG as well and use it to do a lot of reasearch.

It's starting to get cooler here on MN as well so I will have to get everything done outside as well. And since I am originally from MI just have to say GO BLUE!!
 
#28 ·
Tach looks :thumbsup:. Has the car been repainted ? I would've expected more blue and possibly white at the top of the firewall. it may just be the pic/lighting. You'll be able to tell more when you remove the cowl/vent panel.

I guess Chick is saying Jerry's fee outweighs any current value gain. I'm not sure if that will hold true in the future ? The way I see it, there's no need for Jerry on cars (68Z's) that have the original engine or genuine paper documentation as they already have the proof. It's the cars that don't have that would benefit. A prospective buyer would certainly feel more comfortable with Jerry's word rather than relying on some old pics and the owners word.
 
J
#30 ·
Garfields Maro said:
Tach looks
Image
. Has the car been repainted ? I would've expected more blue and possibly white at the top of the firewall. it may just be the pic/lighting. You'll be able to tell more when you remove the cowl/vent panel.

I guess Chick is saying Jerry's fee outweighs any current value gain. I'm not sure if that will hold true in the future ? The way I see it, there's no need for Jerry on cars (68Z's) that have the original engine or genuine paper documentation as they already have the proof. It's the cars that don't have that would benefit. A prospective buyer would certainly feel more comfortable with Jerry's word rather than relying on some old pics and the owners word.
Click to expand...
I am not sure if the car has ever been repainted and not sure how I could possibly tell. I will try to pop off the cowl panel and look under there to see.
 
J
#35 ·
as long as dates are before build date, lol. Year is stamped under intake, CRG has all the info heads, distributor. Actually all my dates are very close to when they began assembling the car. 04D.

Any rubber fuel line remain pass rear frame ? Would have led to the tank.


North or South of Big Rapids ? Him and a classmate did 2 aluminum sculptures for a cancer research center just outside, south of Cadillac. Small town, name escapes me.
 
J
#37 ·
Here is a pic for those wondering what under the cowl looked like.

Also today I got the inner fenders put in after a sanding and paint.

A 2nd coat of undercoating on the back section of the car.

And I will be welding the new multileaf perches onto the rear axle thursday night.
 
S
#72 ·
jcihos said:
Here is a pic for those wondering what under the cowl looked like.
http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/joshcihos/media/camaro/20151110_093124_zps8dj8el7r.jpg.html
Also today I got the inner fenders put in after a sanding and paint.
http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/joshcihos/media/camaro/20151110_103109_zpsleirw4lz.jpg.html
A 2nd coat of undercoating on the back section of the car.
http://s1068.photobucket.com/user/joshcihos/media/camaro/20151110_103630_zpsyhu3ow6e.jpg.html
Click to expand...
Proper prep work must be done prior to any topcoating using quality products. Undercoating is just a Band-Aid and traps corrosion, seals seams and causes further corrosion. If your car is rock solid and will never be subjected to inclement weather it will probably live. Undercoating does not look that pretty anyway, I'd rather see some properly treated surface rust on a solid bellied car than a quick cover up.
 
#38 ·
Just curious, if the car was unmolested underneath did you review and document what you had before the undercoat? I'd give careful review before just jumping in and doing stuff that you might regret later. Just a suggestion and good luck with the car.
 
J
#40 ·
UPDATE:

Got the new spring mounts tacked into place using the measurements on this site. Currently waiting on the leaf springs, mounts, steering rebuild kit to get here to get this into a roller.

I am still trying to decide what rear end ratio to go with. I have decided I am going to use the parts that I have and build a 383 and use the M20 that I already have to back it. I was thinking a 3.73 ratio for the rear. Any opinions on this?
 
#41 ·
From what I see, it looks like you got a real Z28. That distributor is a hard to find part.
You may be able to find a factory rear that would fit into the time build of your car. They do come up now and then for sale.
 
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J
#44 ·
I have been keeping an eye out on CL for Minneapolis area for one. There was one that came up but the guy wouldn't budge at all on price so I picked up an 8.5 rear for 150 instead and will run that until I find a decent priced 12 bolt.

What area on MN are you in? I am right outside of Minneapolis in Ham Lake.
 
J
#47 ·
Minor update.
Picked up a pair of 225/60/15's for the front and got them mounted up.


Also, got the old carpet pulled out and overall the floors look pretty good. Only 2 spot that need to be patched.

Drivers side floor.



Worst of the rust.



Passenger side front.



Passenger side rear.


2nd spot where there is a small hole.



Underside of the floor pans seem to be in good shape also.




Last a couple of questions. Does anyone know what was used to hold the rear plugs into the floor in front of the rear seat?

And did all of the Camaros come with this Holley carb choke lever?
 
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