You didn't mention what your budget is, but assuming you want to do this as cheap as possible. You can get a 383 crank, keep your pistons and get a set of 400 rods 5.565" long, that is the cheap way to build a 383. Now if you have a little more to spend I woul get a 383 crank 5.7" rods, 383 pistons, have it all balanced and have your block prep'd. Now if you are going to have to pay to have it built you can pick up a 383 short block for $1800 (used GM block, cast parts) or you can buy a GM short block for $3500 with all new parts including the block.

You did really give much info on what you already have or what your goals are. Without knowing more it's really hard to make suggestions.

 

Without knowing more it's really hard to make suggestions.

Agreed. If you are going to a LS engine next year, I would save the money and just put it toward next years engine. If you are dead set on more power out of the 350, Royce nailed it. It can be made into a 383 pretty cheaply. Remember, though, power output has more to do with your intake/cam/head/exhaust combination than your bottom end.

 

I have a 4bbl edelbrock carb, cam, flowmaster exhaust, k&N intake. What could i do to get more power out of it? Bolt on power basically. Would a MSD ignition make a big difference in the way it runs?

 

Sounds like you have a very mild 350. Before tearing it down I would try to make it faster. What kind of heads are on this engine? Just saying "cam" doesn't realy help stock engines have cams in them. An MSD ignition would be a waste of oney at this point.

As mentioned above cylinder heads, intake manifole, carb, cam, is where you make power. Without more detailed info we can only give you an idea of things to try. From the sounds of it you are fairly new to hot rodding (nothing wrong with that at all), so let's not get in too deep and not be able to enjoy the car. A cam, carb and intake change would be a good start and let you get your hand dirty and also figure out how things work. Along with that I would put a stall converter in the car if it's an automatic. I think you have a lot of room to grow with that 350 before going for more cubic inches.

What rear gears do you have in the car? Do you have posi? Traction bars? Subframe connectors? What transmission do you have?

 

Get a big block and be done with the dreaming!! YOU KNOW YOU WANT ONE..

 

Everybody knows big blocks are for towing and small blocks are for racing and going fast. Silly Billy

 

My OEM 350SS engine bit the dust years ago and I anguished over a re-stamp but it still wouldn't a been my engine so I bought a 454 P/U engine w/ a bad crank and was going to make a 475, then the dreaded, "More power, Scottie" bug bit me and I now have a mild, (about 550 hp at 5500), 496.

I've got about $4,000 in it and now I know I can build one a lot cheaper b/c of the many inexpensive cast and forged rotating assemblies out there.

pdq67

 

If you want more power and don't want to spend much, try a 100-125 shot of nitrous. You can get a kit for less than $400 bucks and it won't take much to install. Keep the power level low, put in a good fuel pump, back up the timing and watch the tires fry.

I like the performance possibilities in the LS series but am not sure they look right under the hood of a Gen 1.

 

Pick up some good flowing iron heads a cam intake carb, headers. You should be able to find those parts very cheap.

 

Block: 350 Small Block Chevy, Casting # 14016379 (1977-79), 2 or 4 bolt unknown
Heads: Casting # 333882, (1974-80), 76cc chamber, 1.94/1.50 valves, 151cc intake port
Intake: Edelbrock Performer #2101, Dual plane, Square/Spread Bore
Carb: Edelbrock Performer #1406, 600 cfm, 4-Barrel, Square Bore, Electric Choke
Comp Cams 1.52 Roller Rockers
Distributor: HEI
Exhaust: Ceramic coated headers into 2.5" flowmaster exhaust w/H-Pipe
Cam: unknown
Transmission: Turbo 350
Rear: 8.2" 10 Bolt w/Richmond 3.08 gears

 

The verybest bang for the buck would be a better set of heads. The heads you have are not the greatest. A new set of heads and a performer RPM intake would be a good place to start. Of course since you have the heads and intake off throwing in a known cam would be easy and wise. once that's done you can later at a converter which will depend on what cam you decide to go with.

 

If you are not concerned with top-end, stick 3.73 rear gears in it. It will make a huge difference in how it feels when driving but mileage will suffer along with top speed.

 

...but mileage will suffer along with top speed...

Not worried about either one lol

I just want off the line power. NO NOS.

 

Cheapest horsepower increase is to paint the distributor cap 'racing red'. $2 rattle can paint and add 20 HP

 

Now that's funny, but it works !!

 

-882 heads on a '70 350 engine????

I bet it has rebuilder +12 cc dished, 4-notch pistons in it and .039" thick composite headgaskets so your CR is like 8 to 8.5 to 1...

An old early, about 10 to 1 CR'd L-48 295/300hp/350 w/ 4-notch true flat-top pistons w/ a stock Q-Jet top-end on it and any number of "old-school" 268/270/272 and even a couple of 274 hy-cams along w/ a cheap set of headers will turn her RIGHT-ON!!

Sucker will run good enough to get John Law on your as*!!

pdq67

 

Alright! Glad to know I can pull some more potential outta this engine. Now, can you guys give me some more information? what kind of carb, intake, and cam should I get? And from where? I know nothing about those parts and i'd pretty much walk into my local auto parts shop and say "i want a new carb, intake and cam for my sbc350". thanks guys.

 

Hey 250 I am in Vancouver and I know a guy who can make your motor scream.

 

I disagree with the gear swap just yet. We don't even know how tall the tires are. If you have ever driven acar onthe street with 4.56's you would not suggest that ratio. That will mean no highway driving and no continuos speeds of over 50-55mph. I had a car with 4.56's and that is not a street gear unless you have 33+" tires even then you would want OD.

3.42's or 3.55's are good street/strip performance gears. 3.73's are evena bit too steep for highway driving.

The OP is new to the performance/hot rod world, we have to be careful on the advice we give.

The very best bang for the buck is a new set of heads, next would be cam, and intake, followed by a carb.