looks like you are moving right along - looking forward to seeing your progress

 

Enjoy your conversion/build process.... keep the pics coming

 

You're gonna love it when done

 

Good Luck. Someday I too will be done with my LS conversion LOL

 

About to start this as well with an LS3 in my 67. Can you give us a little run down of what you are running for swap parts. Mounts. Headers. Accessory drive etc. Just curious as I am about to pull the trigger on a bunch of holley stuff

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About to start this as well with an LS3 in my 67. Can you give us a little run down of what you are running for swap parts. Mounts. Headers. Accessory drive etc. Just curious as I am about to pull the trigger on a bunch of holley stuff

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I put a ton of thought into exactly what I wanted to do. My brother is in the final stages of swapping and LS2 into his 68 Camaro so I have some first hand info of all the issues that arise with swapping in a used engine. I weighed that against just getting a GM Connect and Cruise engine and transmission. It will end up costing me a bit more money but I will know what I have and have a warranty so I am going with the new LS3 480 and 4l70e transmission.


Here is what I am planning on using for parts:


Engine mounts and transmission crossmember - Holley
Oil Pan Holley 302-2
Griffin CU-70009-LS Radiator and Fans
GM 19257325 Accessory Drive
Kwik A/C bracket 10143
Hooker Super Comp Headers 2276-1HKR
Tanks Inc. fuel tank and pump
Corvette regulator and filter
Vintage Air
Speedway Tubular Control arms 91036769
QA1 Coil overs
US Mags U111 18x8 (Front)
US Mags U111 18x9.5 (Rear)


I am undecided what I am going to do for a speedo etc. I really like the stock look but obviously nobody makes an electronic speedo yet that looks original. I am thinking of getting a speedo and trying to mount the factory face on it.


I am doing my best to do everything right but also not blow my budget totally out of the water. I have a pretty awesome wife and a generous budget so I don't want to ruin that.

 

What cam are you going to run Greg ? :nerd:

 

You guys better hurry before we are all doing LT swaps. Lol

 

Wish you luck in your swap, there are a few of us that have done it so we can help you at any point.

Hey John, after seeing this video I don't think LT swaps are going to be sooner rather than later. Holley has a solution for the accessories now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOGUeYcMT7c#action=share

 

Wish you luck in your swap, there are a few of us that have done it so we can help you at any point.

Hey John, after seeing this video I don't think LT swaps are going to be sooner rather than later. Holley has a solution for the accessories now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOGUeYcMT7c#action=share

hhhmmmm, that turbo set-up at the end :thinking:

 

More tear down last night. Subframe is ready to come out.





A quick question for those of you that have pulled a subframe out before. I was thinking of just putting a 2x10 under my jack stands and setting it up against the floor. I think that will be fine. Thoughts?

 

I used the Dakota Digital VHX gauges in my swap. The Vhx with their OBD2 BIM makes a great plug and play combo. It takes most of the readings directly off of the PCM. Great looking gauges with a modern yet retro look.

 

The way I understand it you just hook up that OBD2 BIM to your OBD2 port and to the Dakota Digital control module and that is basically it other than power, switched power and ground I assume?


On the VHX models can you access any of the other info that may be in your PCM like trans temp, intake temp etc?

 

I really do like the Dakota Digital gauges and it would solve several problems I would have. My bigger issue would be that I dumped about $550 into stock console gauges and a tach a few years ago. I suppose I could just sell those and recoup some of my money.

 

Greg check out New Vintage Gauges. I just purchased them and they have that original look your after. I will post a pic of mine. http://www.newvintageusa.com/1969.html

 

Next up for me is doing the Guldstrand Mod for my control arms. Then I am going to pull the subframe and send it out to get blasted and powder coated. There is a new place here in town that said they would do it for $250. Super cheap as far as I am concerned. I am planning on going with these Speedway 1967-69 Camaro / 1968-74 Nova Tubular Control Arms - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors and these https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qa1-gs401-10350a/overview/year/1969/make/chevrolet/model/camaro. Along with the larger sway bar I already have installed it should make handling much better.

Then I am going to order my vintage air kit and start working on getting that installed. Then it is getting the firewall/wheel houses and radiator support painted so everything looks like new.

 

I am planning on going with these Speedway 1967-69 Camaro / 1968-74 Nova Tubular Control Arms - Free Shipping @ Speedway Motors

I think these are the same and a lot cheaper :

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-67-69-C...r-Control-Arms-Set-/161718030640?hash=item25a7255130:g:UpUAAOSwZVlXlacX&vxp=mtr

 

I just did the Gulstrand mod to my Car earlier this year. went smoothly - however when I bolted my New Tubular A arms on - the did not sit flush to the frame, I had to use a washer begin them because of the way the frame curves in at the bottom. Anyone else seen this B4? I will be interested to see how you make out.

Great build maa!

Arkangel77

 

I just did the Gulstrand mod to my Car earlier this year. went smoothly - however when I bolted my New Tubular A arms on - the did not sit flush to the frame, I had to use a washer begin them because of the way the frame curves in at the bottom. Anyone else seen this B4? I will be interested to see how you make out.

Great build maa!

Arkangel77

You generally have shims there anyway for alignment anyway.

 

these are my Upper A Arms - they are adjustable so was hopping not to use shims, But ya, I get what ya saying

http://smithracecraft.com/index.php...flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=19&category_id=22&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=1

 

I have some spare time and was doing some reading. I was planning on using Holley 2276-1HKR headers. The install instructions say that they won't work with column shift linkage. Does this also apply to floor shift cars that have the interlock linkage going up to the column? I would assume it does.

 

So I bit the bullet and ordered my Connect and Cruise engine/trans combo last night. It's funny how at every point during my life when I spend a bunch of money I get nervous. Every single time I have bought a car, house, etc. and now getting nervous buying drivetrains. The good news is it will be here Tuesday already. I have plenty of work to do before I start putting it in but it will be good to have it in my garage and ready to go when that time comes.

 

Thanks for the tip Lawerence!

Made some more progress today. Drilled my new A-Arm mounting holes for the Guldstrand Mod. Then I pulled the subframe all the way out. I also was able to sell my old 355 which cleared up some garage space and will help me be able to do a couple things that I wasn't sure were in the budget.

 

So today was Christmas in September. Got a bunch of stuff in today.

LS3 480


4l70E


Transmission controller and harness


Engine harness


Torque converter. I need to call in this because the part number on the converter doesn't match the part number on the box. Box says 19299803 which is correct but the converter says 19299811.

 

Just wanted to add that I am pretty damn impressed with the harness and how everything is labeled. Very few connections to hook up and good instructions with it. Hopefully by the end of next week I am ready to paint my firewall and have my subframe powder coated and some stuff can start going together. I am still waiting on my vintage air as well. Lots of work ahead but I am hoping to have the front suspension together with the subframe back in with the engine and transmission mounted before it starts getting too cold because I know when that happens I won't be working in the garage quite as much.

 

I found out my answer on the torque converter. GM says that the 803 number is a torque converter "kit" because it has bolts and instructions in it. The 811 is the actual converter part number.

 

Very nice Greg!!! Will be following this thread.

 

Working on collecting parts for my ls3 swap as well. What harness did you go with gmpp? Or others?

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Kris,

I like both GMPP and PSI. If a crate motor I'd lean to GM. If you're building an engine with cam and other mods I'd use PSI

Both use OEM ECM

 

I have the GMPP harness. I'm sure the PSI one is nice as well, Vegas would know. The GM one is very well laid out and everything is neatly labeled. I think one advantage of using an aftermarket type harness would be that you could have them make the computer mount wherever you wanted. The GM one you are limited to a certain extent.

 

I took my subframe over to get blasted and powder coated on Friday. They are backlogged so it may be up to 2 weeks before I get it back. I also spent a couple hours getting my firewall all prepped for a fresh coat of black on it. I will shoot that today after work.





After getting the firewall painted I am almost at a stand still until I get my vintage air or my subframe back. I probably will put a fresh coat of black on my inner fenders while I have them out even though they look like I just painted them. As I was told from the time I was little. Do it once, do it right.