Are you looking for a labor only cost?.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I imagine the motor mounts would need to be replaced. I'm not sure what else would be needed? The starter (high torque mini) is only a few years only. Radiator is a newish 3 core aluminum. Would the existing flexplate be reused? I guess I'd also ask, what else should I be looking at/thinking about for a swap?

GM Small Block Compatible 383 c.i. Engine - 436 Horsepower - Deluxe Dressed with Black Pulley Kit - Carbureted

BluePrint Engines 383 c.i. small block GM style stroker crate engine - Deluxe Dressed w/ Pulleys longblock with carburetor. Includes 30 month / 50,000 warranty & BPE Dyno Promise. Part #: BP38318CTC1DK

blueprintengines.com

Stats and the engine;

 

Personally, I would try to avoid a place that calls itself a "Hot Rod Shop." To me, that just sounds like another term for higher-than-average labor charge. Not sure where you are located, but I would look at independent repair shops as well and see if they are interested. It's not that hard, you really just want quality work and maybe some helpful suggestions. Ask around in your area. If you don't know who to ask, ask a few of the better-than-average Parts Stores. They should be able to tell you who does the most business or where they would take their car. It's a beautiful thing when you find the right place. Good Luck with your search.

 

Thanks for the reply. Hot rod shop was my attempt to describe the shops around here that work on classic cars. I don't think any have those words in their names.

I've had work done on my car at a few of them in the past (I think there's at least 6 or 7 classic cars shops in the Sacramento area). The one I used the most has transitioned into doing 6 figure builds and they are not interested in "smaller" jobs. The other one I'm familiar with has done work for me and they will be the first place I approach. I was just trying to get a rough idea of the cost before going in...

 

I had the same 1 car garage about 50 years ago. Weather was nice. Backed the car with the front out and rented a cherry picker and did it in the driveway and covered with a tarp when not woring on it. Got it done in 2 days. Cost, I would guess 2k here in NC. May be more in CA.

 

Not knowing shop rates in your area, I can only guess. A couple of options to look at would be to find a good reputable mechanic shop in your area. Lots of times, some of the younger guys are hungry and take on weekend work. Another idea would be to ask around at places where folks gather with older cars. One of them might take the job if you would lend a hand. Thay way you could clean and replace items that need it. My guestamate would be 3-5k at a hot rod shop, and at a buddy's shop, 1500 or so and some free beer.

 

I would not go to the local "Restoration Shop" unless I had unlimited funds which I don't. Go to cars and coffee or local cruise ins or local shows and talk to the others to ask your question. I have a friend here in IL (land of thieves) that is a professional mechanic that has his own shop and also owns 3 classics. His prices are neither cheap nor outrageous, but he will do a good job and has wrenched 60s era cars for a big part of his 50 year career.
Cost will depend on where you are located also.

 

Where are u located?

 

What? No guess?

 

While I'm at it, like any other project, it will could cost twice as much as you expect and could take twice as long too. Fairfax1000 just had a good example today. You will be very happy with that engine. You should see at least a 150 HP improvement from your current engine. I hope your drivetrain is up to the task. Regardless of the rest, Blue Print recommends a higher stall torque converter. Summit's lowest price comes in at around $300 and up. Think of the entire drivetrain as a system, and it ALL, from the engine to the axles, has to be able to take whatever you give it. Again Good Luck
DRIVE FAST AND TAKE CHANCES. Tom S.

 

Gimme a number…or are ya chicken?

 

Every time I do a project like this it snowballs in to other work.
Like others have mentioned, all the extra or misc work that is easiest to do while the engine is out adds up quick.
If you just want someone to remove the 350 and install the 383, 2000 to 2500 may get the job done. If you want the engine bay cleaned up and painted, new mounts, heater core, belts and hoses, what about updating/repairing the cooling system. All this can double or triple the price.
You mentioned a 5 speed. You will need a new flywheel for the 383, and replace the clutch assembly while the engine is out, this is a no brainer in my opinion.

I have swapped dozens of engines outside in the driveway, small garage is not a deal breaker.

 

Every time I do a project like this it snowballs in to other work.
Like others have mentioned, all the extra or misc work that is easiest to do while the engine is out adds up quick.
If you just want someone to remove the 350 and install the 383, 2000 to 2500 may get the job done. If you want the engine bay cleaned up and painted, new mounts, heater core, belts and hoses, what about updating/repairing the cooling system. All this can double or triple the price.
You mentioned a 5 speed. You will need a new flywheel for the 383, and replace the clutch assembly while the engine is out, this is a no brainer in my opinion.

I have swapped dozens of engines outside in the driveway, small garage is not a deal breaker.

Number please.

 

$2K for labor plus materials and tax is my guess to R&R the engine. Add on for any scope creep. That's paying $150/hr @ 13 hrs book time. Adjust for your local shop time. That should get you in the ball park I think.

 

I’ll give ya one data point, but keep in mind there’s a lot of variables to consider that are likely different than mine.

Last week I was quoted $1,200 (Labor only) by a reputable local mechanic in SC to do my engine swap; so here’s a list of “MY” variables for what it’s worth:

current engine 383 in ‘68 vert
TKO600
Pwr steering, Pwr brakes, A/C
My scope - deliver a Blueprint long block to his shop (plus balancer, flywheel)
His scope - remove 383, transfer all the externals (intake, carb, pulleys, etc) to new 350 & reinstall/setup/test

 

Your number sir?

 

Simply pulling and dropping in a small block is a piece of cake for any shop. You said you have a TKO 600, the first thing I thought of was dial indicating the bell housing, you need to be confident the shop has experience doing this. You will likely need to get offset dowels and maybe shims, then waiting for a parts order while you car is taking up valuable shop space.....that will cost you.

 

Your estimate Jim?

 

Read what the OP posted. Recommending a high stall torque converter when he has a manual transmission and other work doesn’t answer his question.

He’s probably in at around $3k labor only to R&R the engine.

To minimize cost so you research and make sure you have everything needed for the swap.

The 383 is external balance so you existing flywheel won’t work.

Other thing to keep in mind is if you supply parts and for what ever reason they don’t work the labor to change them out will be on you. If the shop supplies parts labor is on them.

If you’ve had a positiive experience with a shop I would go to them and negotiate a deal to do the work rather then shopping around and taking a chance with an unknown shop.

 

Thanks everyone for the replies. Consolidating and adding clarifying info from previous posts;

• Location is Sacramento, CA
• Current 350 engine - code indicates it is from 1969
• Transmission is a TKO 600 5 speed
  • I believe the driveshaft was replaced when the TKO was installed, but need to check
• 12 bolt positraction - 3.55:1
• power steering
• power brakes - front are disc
• 3 core aluminum radiator
• clutch fan
• high torque mini starter
• I will need other work done - some optional, some not. Trying to figure out, in relation to the engine swap, needs to be included and what is optional;
  • Heater core is definite need. Started leaking so I disconnected it.
  • Engine mounts - need
  • flywheel
  • clutch when engine out
  • subframe connectors - wish list
  • Hotchkis lowering leaf springs - wish list (has Hotchkis springs on the front)
  • Caltrac bars - wish list
  • beefier sway bar on the front - wish list
  • Vintage Air A/C - it gets oven hot in Sac, but this is a long shot of ever getting installed due to cost. If there is a deal to be had that lowers the cost to bundle it with the engine swap then maybe, but I highly doubt it.

This is a shop where I've had work done before and was happy with them. They have extensive experience and will be the first place I talk to when the time comes;

Muscle Car Restoration | ET Muscle Cars | North Highlands

Find quality muscle car services in the Sacramento California area. View examples of our work on our website and inqiure about services you may need via our e-mail

www.etmusclecars.com

Edit to add - including a pic of the car, just because.

 

• • Engine mounts - need
  • flywheel
  • clutch when engine out

From your post, these are the only things related to an engine swap and are being done with your swap already so aren't adding any labor cost, just the cost of the parts. The rest has nothing to do with swapping an engine and the cost of those items are for the most part going to be the same if you do them with the engine or later. You are going to spend a lot more on the rest of that list you have than an engine swap.

If you plan is to put in vintage air in the near future, no point in doing the heater core now.

 

If you are going to go Vintage Air, don't waste the money on a heater core. The VA unit has its own.

That is a sizeable bill with all that work, pretty sure that would easily reach 5 digits. break out the wallet!

 

Yeah, that's why I don't think AC is in the cards. So easy to spend serious money on these cars... It could use body and paint, but even just a moderate quality job is stratospheric. When I talk to the guy about the engine swap I'll go over various options and costs, but really, I don't plan on going hog wild. I figure with buying the crate engine, cost to swap and a few other things related to that I'll be in it for $12k +.

 

OP

You will have to ask shops you feel are qualified for what they want to charge. Many will say just an hourly rate based on whatever time it takes so that's an open ended deal

It will be anywhere from $1500 to $3500 just to do engine swap. The additional wish list of items will just be added to that cost.

Because the BPE is 1 piece RMS vs your 69 motor you need a new Flywheel. BPE would have what year one to get on their motor spec 411. Your clutch should otherwise bolt to it but you will also need a new pilot bearing for new motor.

I agree it would be prudent that the shop do alignment check of your BH to block and if necessary, install offset dowels if needed. This would be additional cost, especially if adjustments were needed.

While not needed with the BPE full hydraulic roller cam motor (I didn't read your motor specs but assumed it is), have them include their brand of break in oil. I did when I got my 355 ordered direct from them as I told the sales guy..."so should there be a problem we won't need to have the discussion on what oil did I use" even though my motor was full roller vs flat tappet. My BPE started first crank and has been flawless since. My 327 was out of the car in about 3 hours and spent the rest of day and another getting it all settled.

For a qualified shop its a 1 1/2 - 2day job but your wish list of other items will add to that. You should provide all the items needed beyond engine. Oil, filter, plugs, FW, pilot bearing, header gaskets (you need to confirm your current headers match the new motor ports), belts, hoses, coolant, motor and trans mounts, etc (BPE provides a list of all the specific external parts your motor will need). If you are asking the shop to clean and paint the engine bay also, that alone will cost as much as engine R&R. Beyond just bolting in the new motor, time is needed to bolt on all the additional parts to motor and test driving is needed to tune the motor.

Including new motor you can easily see this costing you $10k

 

OP

You will have to ask shops you feel are qualified for what they want to charge. Many will say just an hourly rate based on whatever time it takes so that's an open ended deal

It will be anywhere from $1500 to $3500 just to do engine swap. The additional wish list of items will just be added to that cost.

Because the BPE is 1 piece RMS vs your 69 motor you need a new Flywheel. BPE would have what year one to get on their motor spec 411. Your clutch should otherwise bolt to it but you will also need a new pilot bearing for new motor.

I agree it would be prudent that the shop do alignment check of your BH to block and if necessary, install offset dowels if needed. This would be additional cost, especially if adjustments were needed.

While not needed with the BPE full hydraulic roller cam motor (I didn't read your motor specs but assumed it is), have them include their brand of break in oil. I did when I got my 355 ordered direct from them as I told the sales guy..."so should there be a problem we won't need to have the discussion on what oil did I use" even though my motor was full roller vs flat tappet. My BPE started first crank and has been flawless since. My 327 was out of the car in about 3 hours and spent the rest of day and another getting it all settled.

For a qualified shop its a 1 1/2 - 2day job but your wish list of other items will add to that. You should provide all the items needed beyond engine. Oil, filter, plugs, FW, pilot bearing, header gaskets (you need to confirm your current headers match the new motor ports), belts, hoses, coolant, motor and trans mounts, etc (BPE provides a list of all the specific external parts your motor will need). If you are asking the shop to clean and paint the engine bay also, that alone will cost as much as engine R&R. Beyond just bolting in the new motor, time is needed to bolt on all the additional parts to motor and test driving is needed to tune the motor.

Including new motor you can easily see this costing you $10k

Thanks for that. My recollection regarding the shop I used before (and linked above) was they wanted to order the parts vs me supplying them. I think it has to do with warranties, ensuring the correct part and that it isn't damaged or otherwise defective, which they may be held responsible for. I will bringup the question of break in oil and the BPE warranty.

I see you bought a BPE - how was your experience? Curious about the 355. I don't remember seeing a 355 listed. The 383 I'm looking at has just about everything attached - fuel, power steering and water pumps, carb, alternator, pulleys and belts, spark plugs and wires, HEI distributor, etc. It is also hydraulic roller.

 

Just want to mention that you might need a different flywheel for the 383 depending on how Blueprint built it. They should be able to tell you. I think most of their engine use a 1 piece rear main seal crankshaft which will need a different flywheel anyway unless you 350 happens to be a 1 pc seal engine.

 

Please check with Blueprint as a TV show using a BluePrint crate engine had metric threads and this was a new BluePrint casting. If they're using an older engine block which I think they don't a new block will be metric threaded .
This can be important as a 3/8 bolt will start to thread into a course 10mm bolt thread.They can easily be mistaken for worn out SAE threads by an installer and then cause lots of problems for you and the mechanic .

 

$2,400 - 2 guys, 12 hours each, $100 per hour

 

Stabbing an sbc for a sbc is easy, hooking it all up doing any re-wiring plumbing that looks great when you open the hood takes time.

I helped a good buddy drop a 383 in his mopar one Saturday, He bought lunch and beer.
but he insisted on giving me $1,000 to leave it at my house for a week to hook it all up upgrade ignition ,engine harness, radiator fans fuel plumb…. That’s all time consuming work.

no way I’d do it all for under $2k. Especially if it was my day job.

 

Stabbing an sbc for a sbc is easy, hooking it all up doing any re-wiring plumbing that looks great when you open the hood takes time.

I helped a good buddy drop a 383 in his mopar one Saturday, He bought lunch and beer.
but he insisted on giving me $1,000 to leave it at my house for a week to hook it all up upgrade ignition ,engine harness, radiator fans fuel plumb…. That’s all time consuming work.

no way I’d do it all for under $2k. Especially if it was my day job.

I would happily take $2000 for R&R ing SBC in First gen's if I wanted to work, that's gravy work. It didn't take me much more than an hour to pull one back in the day. That would be installed looking the same as the one I pulled, beautification is scope creep / incremental

 

How much is a sack of groceries? 🙂

 

Now or a couple years ago?

 

On wish list, if you want Cal Tracs go with their split mono spring - works better as a package. Don’t forget shocks

 

Do they have lowering split mono springs? I'll have to look into that. Someone in the past put aluminum blocks between the axle and the springs to lower the car. It works, but I'd rather get rid of them and get the right springs.

I have KYB Gas Adjust shocks on there now. I haven't had any others, so no way to tell if they are "good" or not (in terms of how they ride). They seem a bit hard/harsh over bumpy roads... Suppose I'll go down that rabbit hole and search the forum for shock recommendations at some point!

 

The Gas A Just are the worst.
80s air shocks would even be a huge improvement.
Seriously tho, I had them for maybe 2 miles when I first assembled my car. Terrible shock. But what do expect for $25 ea.

 

You also need to take into consideration wiring. Your 67 probably has the alternator on the drivers side unlike this 383 so wiring comes into play. Not a huge thing to overcome but just another expense that will pop up. Also do you have a HEI if not more wiring. If I was you and to be honest I am glad I am not because I can do this myself and all these little added things can add up. Personally I would get a long block engine that you can transfer your parts, pulleys, hoses, flywheels, reuse your wiring, etc to mount things in their original location and in the long run it will be a simpler and a cheaper task. Are you after max HP or do you just want a nice running 350 engine to replace old smokey? It is easy to install a 350hp engine especially if you swap your existing boltons.

 

The current alternator is on the passenger side, same as the 383. The issue I'll have to deal with is the BPM alternator is a single wire, while I converted my wiring to 3 wire and bought a Powermaster 150amp alt when I first got the car. It only had a speedometer and gas gauge, so I replaced those and added tach and temp gauges along with warning lights. Did all the wiring myself. So if I can't convert the alternator that comes with the BPM, I'll reuse mine.

As far as transferring parts over; besides the alternator, intake manifold and carb everything else is rusty, worn and just in a bad state. I'm looking forward to new and reliable. And if I'm being honest, more power!

 

Give the OP a break about having a shop do his engine swap.

While I have always swapped my own engines, transmissions, etc since I was 15 and for the most part all by myself with the exception of having someone help lower motor while I am underneath lining up to trans, R&R hood, etc (but yeah have done it all by myself before).......at 71 now I just don't get up as fast as I did before so having a shop do an engine swap now I would likely do that unless a friend who also can wrench does it with me. Additionally, I can afford this now where for the most part during my younger years I could not.

I still do all my car work otherwise and even have an engine lift and stand but no car lift so its jackstands and laying on cardboard is it. With 3 hobby cars and a DD but only a 2 car garage its a car shuffle and engine swap takes the whole garage so all cars are outside while that happens so that would steer me to a shop to do an engine swap now even though I cringe having someone else do stuff I can...or at least used to.

But as noted...how much is a bag of groceries now...its around $100, not $40-$50 anymore. Shop rates are also considerably higher than 20 years ago and ones that will do this kind of work well are less available. Fortunately for me, I know of a shop I would get this stuff done at and know it's done right if I needed to do an engine swap now.

 

I'm not completely without engine swap experience. Back in the late 80's (I was 19 or 20) I bought a 1970 6 cylinder Camaro. Column shift auto. My Dad, uncle and I did the swap with a crate 350 and TH350 tranny in my uncles garage. They did most of the work, and it was so long ago I don't remember much.

My Dad

Engine in the car with a terrible air cleaner

We installed a new hood with clearance for the new motor. Paint was next. My uncle did it our the driveway. It was not a good paint job (Pic is the car at Ft Ord, not our driveway).