He, He!!! Well, the best S/F/C's would be a set that somebody installed for you for free!!! Lol. pdq67

 

I would think any bolt-in subframe connector is as 'good' as another. You're only bolting them on.

 

The only convertible only connector out there is made by Global West. Myself and a hand full of Team Camaro guys have them installed.

They bolt in up front and weld in the rear. I guess you could put in a couple of bolts through the rear frame rails instead of welding them in but it will not be as strong and you will be left with holes in your frame when you remove them later on.

There are a couple of other ways to get connectors in your car but you are going to have to cut the floor or cut the connector and weld them in.

If you search around this site you will find many posts and pictures on the subject.

If you go to this link you will see a pic of the Global West Connectors on my car. http://www.ragersworld.com/images/subframeconnectors.jpg

Remember this about Global West connectors-
1. they hang 3" lower than your floor and if you are planning on lowing your car they will scrape every speed bump.
2. they are very visible.

You may also want to read this past post on convertible connectors http://www.camaros.net/forum/Forum7/HTML/002040.html

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69 RS Convertible Camaro, 350/350. Orignal red with black top and interior. Hotchkis suspension.
http://www.ragersworld.com/

[This message has been edited by jrager (edited 07-19-2002).]

 

Bolt on connectors are marginally better than having no connectors. They move, flex and eventually elongate the mounting holes. I would leave it alone or go the weld in route. Look here: http://www.detroitspeed.com/

 

SO what about us guys without the access to a welder? I though about getting the bolt on ones, and then taking to a shop and having them welded to keep their position. Will tis work, or should I just bite the bullet and pay for someone to weld on the weld in only connectors. I really don't want to mess with the floorpans, and the DSE bars are pretty expensive.

Dan

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67 Pro-touring Camaro-327, 9:1, Comp XE268 Cam, Perf. RPM Intake. 750 Holley, Sportsman II Heads, Ceramic coated headers, 700R4 trans, 17" Amer. Racing TT2's, 12" disc brakes, custom stereo, black with white stripes, cowl ind. hood.

 

I recently installed the DSE SFC's and I love them. Very well thought out, perfect quality, great instructions. Yep, you have to cut the floor.

It is an interesting proposition. If you really want SFC's, don't buy the bolt in ones. You really wouldn't believe the stress you put on suspension pieces when you drive a car hard. And do SFC's work? Depends on the car, but the short answer is YES!!! I installed some on an 89 Mustang that I had years ago. Before install, when I jacked up one front side of the car, the front tire would come off of the ground while all others stayed. Afterwards, I could jack the car immediately behind the front wheel, and the back wheel would come off the ground virtually at the same time the front did.

It's a tough one, but one of those situations where it is difficult to have your cake and eat it too.

Mark

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69 SS, ZZ430 Look-alike, Tremec TKO, Hotchkis Suspension

 

I agree with Mean69, If $$$ is the issue wait until you can afford it and go the Detroit Speed route. If you have a correct number matching car, leave it alone. If not, have fun but do it right.

 

Get the bolt in Competitin Engineering ones, and then take your car somewhere to have them welded in. I put these on my car, and they went in pretty easy, and you don't have to cut into your floors.

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68 468 700R4, and here it is;
mutert23

 

That's what I'm doing. I don't want to cut the floor up any more than it has been already. It sure won't hurt MY car. It's been on life-support for a looooong time already and it can't take much more surgery.



------------------
Joe
WCA Member
1969 Wallet Crusher
- HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
- HwyStar@CarJunky.com
My neverending project!

 

I have the GW connectors. Jrager's caveat is right on the money. I like them very much.

Mine are welded both at the front and the rear instead of bolting on the fronts.

Check my link to see a couple of pics of how low they hang. By the way, I highly recommend some kind of SFC for convertibles. The car drives so tight and solid now. I thought it was fine before the install--then I had them put in to help curb any future sagging.

Like night and day. Also, make sure you have all the cocktail shakers as well.

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68 Camaro ragtop, original 327, angle plug Camel humps, 202's, Performer, Holley 650 double pumper, Doug Thorley headers, 3-speed Saginaw, 3.08 posi, subframe connectors, Addco sway bar

http://hobbystage.net/camaro/cjkaram/

 

Mark-

Thanks for that. It really isn't all about the saved money, it is about not cutting into the floor pans of my already finished car. Glad to here someone is running that setup and having good results. I will go the bolt in, then weld route, as I refuse to cut the floor pans. Thanks


Dan

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67 Pro-touring Camaro-327, 9:1, Comp XE268 Cam, Perf. RPM Intake. 750 Holley, Sportsman II Heads, Ceramic coated headers, 700R4 trans, 17" Amer. Racing TT2's, 12" disc brakes, custom stereo, black with white stripes, cowl ind. hood.

 

I agree with Dan, Its not about money but about not having to cut the floor. Once thats done its pretty hard to return that back to original. Anything sould be better than none right?
Mike

 

I refused to cut up my nice new floors in my "Pro-Tour" Pace Car. I made my own connectors to fit under my '69. I simply bought Jeg's bolt in connectors (I didn't want to permanently weld any in) and notched and fully boxed them in. Cost $100 bucks and NO they won't scrape the ground, and my car is lowered 2-2.5 inches. As a matter of fact the Global West connectors hang lower than these, and are much more noticable. Here is a pic, I hadn't painted them yet as I was still fitting them. Yes, anything is better than nothing, and these stiffin the chassis remarkably well.

[This message has been edited by CrossRamZ11 (edited 07-21-2002).]

 

No image is showing up. Like to see what you did. Have another link?

 

Crossramz11, is your car a convertible? Probably since you had to cut and box in those Jeg's SFCs.
Does anyone have experience with both Jeg's and Compettition Engineering's bolt-in SFCs? They are the same price and I was wondering if one is better than the other.

 

duplicate post. How'd that happen

[This message has been edited by Winch (edited 07-22-2002).]

 

Yes, It is.

 

Those look great, That just looks the way I'm going to go on my vert.

 

-




[This message has been edited by CrossRamZ11 (edited 07-22-2002).]

 

Winch,

I purchased the Jeg's brand because the stated that they are "60% stiffer than the competition" Meaning CE
connectors. I don't really know if that's true but oh well, they are good enough for me.


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1969 "Touring" Pace Car, Full Hotchkis Suspension, Bilstein Shocks, AGR Steering, 352CI Dynoed 470hp/430Tq - Winston Cup Airbox, 18" Centerline Lazers, Baer Track Brakes.
1969 Touring Pace Car

[This message has been edited by CrossRamZ11 (edited 07-22-2002).]

[This message has been edited by CrossRamZ11 (edited 07-22-2002).]

 

So who makes JEGS?

 

Any difference from the Jegs and Summit brands? They seem to be the least expensive, and are bolt in. On my 67 base coupe, will I have to cut the floor?

 

I put a set in my 67 and you don't need to cut anything but what I found is there tough to fit so I put them up on the mill and slotted the holes . The fit was easy after that

 

I don't know about "Best"... But I'm using the Hotchkis SFC's and am real happy with them. They fit very tight to the floor without having to modify anything.

 

Since I just finished my floor and installed the interior I didn't want to take it all apart to install the Detroit Speed style SFC,they look the best.
Second best in my opinion is the Hotchkis, thats what I went with. I think the rectangle tube they use looks and fits the car the best.