My picture should be able to give you the idea how it will fit using those headers. Even though im not using a a/c suitcase. Ill be putting in vintage air.

Check it out

 

that looks like it would fit, they angle and come down right away so I think they would clear the suit case, and this is with dingo sliders? If so, if you don’t mind could you let me know how much clearance there is from the collecter and the floor pan?

 

Long tube? And with what trans? I can tell you that the mounts recommended in the 2288-1HKR Blackheart instructions (12611HKR, which claim stock location) will NOT work with a 4L80e, even with the Blackheart transmission crossmember (12627HKR). As you try to shove the engine/trans in, the bellhousing hits the tunnel about 3/4” before the frame stands get above the mounting holes, and even if it didn’t, the trans mount would be at least 1/4” past the holes on the crossmember. Oddly, the 12618HKR mounts (clamshell style that also claim stock location) allow the trans and motor to bolt in. BUT… the headers are pretty much touching the steering gear box and DO touch the rearmost lip of the passenger side upper control arm. And in my case where I’m using a C5 ‘Vette belt drive, the driver side front upper CA lip lands IN the belt grooves of the PS pump pulley.
I’m still in the process of figuring this mess out, but I also have a set of the LSX Innovations mounting plates which, when compared to the 12611HKR plates put the engine’s “stock location” 1/4” lower and 1/8” more forward. These also give you 3 additional forward positions at 7/16”, 1 3/4”, and 2 1/4”. Im hoping this will let the bell-housing clear, but will still need to check out the header clearances and trans mount situation. If it’s too FUBAR, I will pull the engine/trans and beat the tunnel to see how the LSX Innovations and/or 12611HKR fit then. And if all else fails, I’ll go back to the 12618HKR set and grind down the two UCA lips and maybe gently press some steering box clearance into the driver side tube. These have never been run, so the ceramic coating isn’t fully cured yet. Not stoked about it, but it is what it is. I’ll report back with my results if I can ever get another free day.

 

Yes long tube and I’m using a th350… that’s a lot of good info please let me know what comes out of it!

 

My setup.

LQ9 6.0
TKX trans
Holley clamshell mounts
G-Force cross member
Blackheart long tubes
Holley serpentine belt system.

I have no problems whatsoever with how everything fits together. Matter of fact clearance around idler arm and power steering box have plenty of clearance. Fit so well it looks factory. Me, I would throw away the dingo setup and got with the clam shells from holley. Headers are tucked up to the floor and the G-force cross member has lots of clearance for 3" exhaust too

 

My setup.

LQ9 6.0
TKX trans
Holley clamshell mounts
G-Force cross member
Blackheart long tubes
Holley serpentine belt system.

I have not problems whatso ever with how everything fits together. Matter of fact clearance around idler arm and power steering box have plenty of clearance. Fit so well it looks factory. Me, I would throw away the dingo setup and got with the clam shells from holley. Headers are tucked up to the floor and the G-force cross member has lots of clearance for 3" exhaust too View attachment 346924

it is an option i am starting to consider

 

I think i need to retract my other post. After messing around with the 12611-HKR and the LSX innovations mounts, and even’69 SBC frame stands, I just CANNOT get a combo that will get everything where it needs to be. Both of those put the trans too far back. So far that you’d have to fab a new trans hump AND give up the Hooker trans mount. So, re-reading the trans crossmember instructions I relearned that it SPECIFICALLY calls for the 12618HKR mount. The one I started with. Grrrr…
So… The crossmember calls for the 12618, and the headers call for the 12611, BOTH of which claim “stock location”, but don’t give the same results. WHEEeeeee!!!
I think I’m just gonna have to put the 12618s back in and attempt to mod the headers without damaging the ceramic coating. Hopefully.

 

Use the setup i posted. you wont regret it. You also dont have to modify anything, unless you are putting a large auto trans in. But then all that requires is a tunnel mod.