I have my 69 project stripped down to bare metal. It needs some flaws filled with Duraglass. Do I apply the Duraglass and or puddy to the bare metal or do I shoot it with self etching or epoxy primer first?
Thanks
JZ

Check this out:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74213

Jogas

 

Duraglass will work applied on properly prepared bare surfaces or over epoxy primer. I've never used self-etching primer but it should work as well. I've NEVER had a negative reaction, the most important issue in my opinion is prep, all surfaces must be CLEAN!

 

You might check with your paint mfg. I know with Spies Hecker, you lay down your etch then sealer, then body fillers. My supplier says there is so much involved with the chemical reactions with current paint an fillers. They feel you get a better bond with filler on your sealer.

 

I was wondering the same question. It seems to me just common sense (and i lack that a lot of the time) that you would wanna put all bodyfillers over your etching primer like PPG's DP40. These primers you put over bare metal for the best adhesion and corrosion control. In most paint jobs BONDO is what you see fail and begin to crack out and from my lil bit of experience i have, its rust thats formed under the bondo applied to bare metal. This could be due to improper prep or other factors as well, Im not at all a expert at paint and body im eagerly trying to learn all these processes. So does anyone have an answer to this??

 

From everything I have read on the subject of body filler, none of it is waterproof, and dura glas is as close to water proof as you can get.

Lets use a floor pan as an example.

Floor pan supports are spot welded to the pan, and there is small gaps in between and around the spot welds.

Lets say you sand, wire brush or sand or bead or whatever, blast the pans and supports.

A lot, or the majority of 40 year old pans and supports are pock marked and pitted.

So some body filler here on our bare metal, if you want them perfect, you will need to get that filler at the edge of those supports, and a little bit under the edge.

If you spray like an epoxy for example, you can get that epoxy under that flange fairly good, if not by spraying, with a short bristle brush you can dab it in there lightly.

Back to the filler, without epoxy under it, if you force the filler under those gaps, you still can't get it in there like a liguid epoxy. If you only use filler, you will probably loose that factory gap.

I also agree with the filler over bare metal, if it's put on right, it will last forever?

If there isn't a lot of difference in the adhesion, between filler to metal or filler to epoxy, which I think is a wash.

Then I would think, bare metal, epoxy and then filler would be the best protection in this case.

Rob