Pull the other bolt, remove the plate, and you'll have enough of the broken bolt exposed to grab and remove - it isn't in tension, so it'll come right out.

:beers:

 

great thought...just pulled th eplate off...snapped too far in...nothing to grab

 

In the picture the bolt looks flush with the plate, maybe you just need a better tool to grab the bolt... You can always use an ez-out or other tools like this...

Amazon.com: Alden 2507P Drill-out Broken Bolt Extractor 1/4 in. (6mm): Home Improvement

 

problem is, I haven't the room needed for a drill-out style extractor, and th ebolt is definitely in too far, they way it snapped to grab with anything externally...

 

tap it if you can, and get it out with a smaller thread bolt

 

Just tried to get my frill in to try a tap, or drill a pilot for an extractor...even with my 90 degree drill, not enough room--if I need to tap it, the motor is goign to have to come out, or at least "up" off the frame significantly...

I'l take another whach at it, but I guess ultimately, I was going to have to lift the motro to replace the rear main seal anyway...may as well pull the damned thing (frustrated sarcasm)!

 

If you have a mig welder ist an easy fix, put a nut same size as the bolt over the tread and weld in the hole of the nut and on the end of the bolt , just make sure to cover the hole in to the engine before you weld,

 

Good idea.

just try running it with 3 bolts

What I was thinking.

Just clean the surface real good and put on some silicone. :yes:

 

Take a flex dremel tool with a cutting pad score a line in the top of the bolt
sticking out, insert short screwdriver into slot and remove. As said above should not be any tension on bolt and come right out.

 

Put a block of wood under the oil pan , remove the PS motor mount bolt and jack the engine up enough to drill it. Be sure to block the engine up between the motor mount and frame - be safe ! :yes:

 

All that bolt does is hold that corner of the plate down to seal oil in.
Because its such a pain to get that bolt out, just try running it with 3 bolts and a fuel pump, if it leaks you need to do something about it.
If it seals, fix it for real when you have a reason to pull the motor.

Unless you are looking for a reason to pull the motor, then yes do it!

 

I was starting to lean toward the (try three bolts and see what happens...

I am not looking for a reason to pull the block, but have a couple of things I could do if I did...fix this issue, check the frame mounts (I think I may have big block mounts holding my small block in place), and replace the rear main seal...

problem is, I want to drive the thing for a few weeks befor eit goes to the shop in the fall for body and paint...shop will have it from Mid septemebr until late March (that's the plan, anyway)...

 

Use RTV and run it without the bolt. You wont have an issue,and if you do,then you have lost nothing but the half hour it took you to reinstall the pump. The only reason those bolts are there is to hold the plate on before the pump goes in.

 

OK, afew folks have mentione using RTV, silicone, etc...I have always used felpro gaskets, and slathered them up with gasket dressing, permatex, etc...is thi snot Ok also, or am I better with a silicone "gasket maker"?

 

On those type gaskets I have always used silicone with them and had good luck. Throw the pump on and drive it like a rental !

 

Thanks for all of the advice, folks...got her put back together with two bolts (yes, I am an idiot ans snapped the other bolt head off--never realized how fragile they were!)...sealed it up and put it all together with the two fuel pump bolts, and ran it for about 25 minutes...so far, so good--no leaks!