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cencalc6

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello guys Hoping I can get some great advice on what should I do.I took plenty of pics on what I'm working with.I recently bought this project X11 69 Camaro,the previous owner relaced 80% of the sheet metal.When I purchased it I was in shock on how great it looked.Long story short I was getting ready to install my DSE subframe connectors and I noiticed rust and pits on some areas.They also patched the rear floors....Overall the floor looks great.

My question is, Do I patch the infected areas or swap out the whole floor.

Btw! The firewall has rotted sections, so I'm also replacing the firewall and cowl.

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Passenger Front Floor Pan
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Passenger Rear Seat Pan
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Close up Pic
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Driver Rear Seat Pan
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Driver Front Floor Pan
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I would weld the holes closed that you found, and treat the floor with one of the rust preventative products.
At the very worst, you might weld in a patch panel if the metal is too thin in a given area. Just not bad enough in my opinion to replace the whole floor.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I did some research and I found all the pieces I would need to patch up the areas....The Total cost would be around $365.00 plus shipping :noway: I forgot to mention that the tranny tunnel also has 2 Big holes in it :mad: anyways The reason I ask about the full floor pan replacement is that there's a shop that has a Dynacorn full floor pan for $350.00 and that would save me big on shipping charges.....Just a little worry about doing a Big job like this....Anyways Thanks for the advice guys, I'll make my decision by today and I'll keep you guys updated :thumbsup:
 
I think the floor looks great, if you feel some of the metal is really to thin, then just
add some to it for a few bucks. I think most of us would not replace that floor unless
it was worse. Do some metal work to get the holes plug up, the 1 piece floor is great
but you take a chance when you cut that one out, there's alot of variables that could
happen. Work with that one. Just my 2 cents
 
X2 (I'm with ScottK):yes:

Your current floor doesn't look bad enough to warrant cutting out the entire floor-- BUT! it is your car, and if you're a perfectionist you may choose otherwise. :D I had more than the average rot going on in my Camaro so I replaced quite a few panels. (okay-- almost all of them:D)
 
If you don't go full pan replacement, another option to welding up the holes (since you could easily blow a larger hole in it) might be something like Por-15s Powermesh fabric.

http://www.por15.com/POWERMESH/productinfo/VC/

Its basically a fiberglass mesh that you put down after a first coat of por-15 then paint over it with another coat of por15, when it dries its supposed to be very strong.

I have similar rust holes in my trunk, and I haven't figured out if I want to replace the entire trunk pan or just try to treat the holes, considering using the power mesh to see if I can get a good fix with it. I bought some and the mesh is pretty fine I could see how it might with some work come out pretty good.

I don't think you can close up big holes with this but small / pin holes should work. Big holes probably need a patch panel if you aren't going the full pan replacement route.

A few threads on it sound promising especially used in conjunction with some putty to smooth things out:
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9734
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13408
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16185

However you end up fixing the floors you might consider Por-15 after you fix them. I had some pitting on my floors and with a couple coats of Por-15 they cleaned up nice (no holes thou).

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Good luck!
 
Take your time and evaluate what you want for your end result and the effort to get there . When you get involved with using repro sheetmetal you need to beware that none will fit perfectly and take a considerable amount of time to massage into place. If my floors were in that good of shape I would have used some of the POR 15 products to restore the mechanical entegrity while preserving the originality before fighting with new floor pans. IMHO.
 
That floor has a lot of life left in it. But if you're replacing the firewall and cowl the full floor pan is pretty cheap. Might as well make it a party.

On mine, I just brushed the scale off with a wire brush, cleaned it, and then used some of that brush-on rust converter stuff that is sold at most stores. Then I sprayed it down with DEI BoomMat spray.
 
I had a bunch of pin holes in my floors too. I used POR's 2 part putty after metal etching and marine cleaning the sanded floor. Then grind down the putty spots, then painted with 2 coats of POR gray. pics in my folder here:

Floor Pics
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
You guys are awsome,thanks for the great Advice and suggestions....Me being inpatient and jumping the gun I went ahead and purchased the full floor pan....being that it was only a couple miles away I just had to pick it up. This will give me a great opportunity to practice my welding skills. I should have some pics today of the beginning phases, Thanks again guys :thumbsup:
 
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