Had one done in a Saginaw over the winter,shop only charged $75 to do it and reseal the trans.

 

... I have read about a few different ways of doing this. ...
- split the bushing to remove... Damage the housing?
- using a puller tool... What is this?
- using the new bushing to push out the old one... Damage the new bushing?
- using a socket and a press. I do have access to a press at work... What size socket?

What is the best way to remove the old bushing and replace it with the new one?

While I truthfully can't remember exactly how a Muncie tail bushing is seated ( CRS has set in ...) I have done similar bushings in all of the 'bolded' ways above.
If you have access to the rear of the bushing, I will most often try to use the correct driver (or a socket) to drive/press it out.
If I can access it easily from the rear and there are clearance slots or a lip on the bushing I will use one of my 'inside' puller to pull it out that way.
My process of last resort is usually to try to split the bushing with a chisel (or a carefully crafted sharpened old screwdiver blade ) and remove it that way - this almost always leads to other things in my case ...
I would almost never use a 'new' bushing to drive out the old :noway:
Sure way to buldge the end of the new one and cause a tight fit or drag that will quickly ruin the new one in use

I just rebuilt a "Berkeley" Jet Drive a few months ago and had to use a combination of these peocedures to get all the bushings and bearings out of it. Some were just to dang deep in their housings for me to really reach, so a couple of long extensions on a socket allowed me to get them out and replaced.
I tend to work my way around these issues, as I hate to take stuff to a shop if I can do it - usually ...
If you are worried about damaging the housing, I would always defer the work to a qualified machinist or mechanic - maybe a local tranny shop has someone with a good set of drivers that could do it for you for reasonable price.

Hope this helps

btw - check with your local Harbor Freight Tool place, they have some cheap sets of drivers that could probably get most of the stuff out and replaced.
While I sure wouldn't call most of their stuff 'production' tool quality - they are good enough for these little 'onesy-twosy' type of jobs.

 

a bushing driver set is the really way to go since it supports the inside as well as the top of the bushing while driving it in. a tranny shop has the right tool to do it.less than 5 minutes it takes. a puller can be used as the tail is on the tranny and they have a driver to install it. the same as a 350 tranny.i wouldnt use a socket or anything to drive it back in.

 

Vince,
If you have a press it is a two minute job. Just find a socket or bushing driver that is the correct size by looking at the new bushing. Press the old one out and press the new one in ...... done deal.

 

Very simple job if you hve any mechanical skill at all. Just take a sharp thin screw driver or chisel and split the old bushing at the oil return slot in the case. being careful not spread the bushing as it could crack the case if you drive the screw driver or chisel as a wedge too tight. After its about half way split it will get loose and just drive it on out. Then just drive the new one in with a socket or bushing driver. Clean up any burring of the edge of the bushing with a small round file. Good to go.

 

Thanks guys! Sounds like a quick job. I'll try to press it out... if it sticks I'll split it and press in the new one with a socket. I took it to a tranny shop for the "quick 5 min job" and they guy at the desk kept it behind the counter for 2 days looking for the bushing. This is the only shop in my area that does manual trans rebuilds. I don't trust that... I'm doing this one myself.

 

Hey man I just rebuilt my muncie to a M22 with the help and parts from Jody's Transmissions and to start he was exceptionally great with over the phone help. I split the bearing with a sharp chisel being careful not to hit the tail shaft housing, and it came right out. Then use an inch and a half plastic PVC plumming cap and a rubber mallot to drive in the new bearing with out damaging it. It is simpler than it sounds. Good luck.