[Melmount]

I had done from global west. Solids.
They sent the same size for the 4 main ones. They said several times it was correct. It threw me off line at the radiator mounts. It changed the angle. All worked fine when done. They are not supposed to be same size under the car.
I still recommend solid. In my opinion it stopped creaks and noises. Stopping flex stopped noises for me.
They don’t ride bad. Heck new cars floors to frame no mounts or rubber. For a cruiser I don’t think you would complain with any of the three types.
If I was wrong on the global west sixes being the same I would love an explanation how it’s right.

 

[ilikeike]

I had done from global west. Solids.
They sent the same size for the 4 main ones. They said several times it was correct. It threw me off line at the radiator mounts. It changed the angle. All worked fine when done. They are not supposed to be same size under the car.
I still recommend solid. In my opinion it stopped creaks and noises. Stopping flex stopped noises for me.
They don’t ride bad. Heck new cars floors to frame no mounts or rubber. For a cruiser I don’t think you would complain with any of the three types.
If I was wrong on the global west sixes being the same I would love an explanation how it’s right.

I have the Global West mounts.
It's been about 10 years, but it seems I was a bit confused about size as compared to the stock ones. but, they worked fine. They did send me a different one for the rear mount to work with my Hotchkis Subframe connectors if I remember correctly.

 

[Melmount]

A thicker one in the rear will lift the front of the frame. Tilt in down in back lifts the front. It made it easier to get crossmember in. I had to fab the front . I don’t understand how they claim it’s correct.
none the less, I don’t want hijack the thread. I would use solid. The ride quality is in the shocks and tire choices.

 

[Jedi]

Of my 5 cars that have rubber and poly, I like the rubber especially in my vert that I replaced 20 years ago and still look like new. Honestly between the 2 I cannot tell the difference. HBC is the most expensive vendor has been my experience for aftermarket parts. OEM parts is the place to go to. Shop around

yeah their regular prices are way high, but their sale prices are pretty decent, you always have to shop around thats for sure!

 

[FbodyMike]

Want a soft ride don't go crazy on spring rate, and get some good quality shocks. On a convertible, the factory body structure reinforcements still don't come close to compensating for the lack of roof structure. Even more reason to run solid (or maybe delrin) bushings.

 

[SoCal805]

OP

if your vert doesn't have the center factory brace. This BMR would work. Available from other sellers

IDK if the usual 1st gen part places have the factory repop ones

BMR 67-69 1st Gen F-Body Convertible Only Driveshaft Tunnel Brace - Bl – Everything Truck Parts

 

[Jedi]

I decided to go with the HBC Subframe HD Durometer rubber bushings so we will see how it goes

 

[mgg003]

Hey guys I know there are a LOT of treads on this topic already, so I figured why not add to the topic of Subframe bushings.

So I'm replacing and restoring a lot on my 69 convertible as you all have probably seen and are doing yourselves. I'm now to the point of suspension restoration and subframe bushings. With SO many options on the market I figured I'd throw up a new post and ask a few questions.

My car is a cruiser so no real racing other than spirited driving. I'm opting more for a quality comfort ride.

I'm looking at rubber options and heartbeat has an option that I'm considering, but it's a bit pricey. Anyone use these bushings from Heartbeat or do you have any suggestions?

What all are you running and how's the ride?

I know there are Solid, Delerin and poly bushings, so chime in and lets put this conversation to rest once and for all whats the best.


View attachment 340834

Sold one of my project Camaros, so I have a new set of BMR Delerins, if your interested.