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To take coil springs out with subframe on or off

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4.6K views 25 replies 11 participants last post by  Bubba1  
#1 ·
After reading a few post, I realized that I screwed up taking the motor and trans out before removing the coil springs. My ambition gets the best of me. Now from reading those threads, it scares the crap out of me to attempt this.
I’ve replaced the coils on a 69 Mustang several times and that’s a scary feat each time.
Now should I attempt this with the frame on or off the car.
What are the steps to remove the coils???
I’ve enclosed the spring compressor I’ve used on the Mustang. I guess on the Camaro I need a fairly thick washer on top of the LCA.
What’s my best course of action?

270005
 
#3 ·
I installed mine when the frame was sitting on my garage floor. I rented the tool from O'rileys auto parts, and I didn't even need it.
My 3" drop Hotchkis springs slipped right in without using the tool !
it kind of scared me because I thought Wow! this is going to be slammed ! but my car sits just right.


I think you'll be okay.

270008


270009
 
#9 ·
I had a spring come out of a tool like this. I clamped the one end in a vise horizontal. After the fact it was determined that I had not engaged the pin in the notch correctly and the spring and plate twisted allowing it to release. Used correctly it's 100% safe. The Moog version of this tool came with two clips you could install to bow the spring to allow easier installation into the spring pockets without the use of a compressor. I'm not sure if it would be easy to use in my home garage if used on the car due to the overall length. it's been 40 years since I've seen one.

Jeff
 
#5 ·
That tool you showed is exactly what I used and my frame was out of the car. Slip it into the coil with the shock removed, seat the hooks so the threaded rod is mostly parallel with the spring and tighten it up - it's really pretty easy. Greasing the washers helps a bit if you feel like it.
 
#6 ·
I took my coils to a spring shop and had them metal banded prior to installation. I put the ball joints together and installed the shocks, then cut the bands one at a time. There were 3 bands on each spring. I've used the spring compressor before and having the springs banded was 100 percent safer.
 
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#8 ·
I used the same tool you showed in your original post and removed mine without the engine and with the subframe out of the car. I did however secure the springs to the frame with heavy duty towing straps to contain them if something slipped. Both of mine came out without any drama. Good luck!
 
#10 ·
If I’m using the compressor in my 1st post.
I would take the arm off and slide the threaded Rod through the top shock hole. Then put the arms on the bottom of the rod.

Which way to best compress the coil to get out.
Should I attach the bottom arms to the furthest down coil or midway?

I want to be able to drop the LCA and unscrew the rod to release the coil and allow it to drop out.
I’m concerned, depending where I attach the arms that it will not allow me to release the coil due to excess pressure.
The rod is 8 1/2” long and I’m sure the springs are much longer.
270032
 
#16 ·
I’m concerned, depending where I attach the arms that it will not allow me to release the coil due to excess pressure.
The rod is 8 1/2” long and I’m sure the springs are much longer.
The OP is worried that he will not be able to get the compressor off of the spring due to the spring length.
B....
 
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#17 ·
Correct Brettallen59!
I have no experience on how long these springs are and my rod is 8 1/2” long. So I question do grab hold of the coil higher? If I grab the coil lower, will I be able to get the tool off or will there still be too much tension.
 
#18 ·
It will work - I think you are worrying about nothing. My springs were stock, I move the claws as far apart as I could, put the 1/2" ratchet on it and compressed it. I don't think it was much more than two inches if I remember - would've fallen out of the pocket if I let it.
 
#21 ·
I would probably jack the car as high as my jack goes and then put a 4X4 on top and raise another three or four inches. I think I'd be just short of twenty inches off the ground at the jack. The arm probably won't drop that far down but will give you working room under the car to make things easier. If you take the floating fingers off and go thru the shock mount hole I'd put the threaded fingers as low on the spring as possible. use caution when releasing the tension as I think there may be a little left when you run out of threads. Shouldn't be a dangerous amount IMO but be aware of which direction the spring may go if it exits in a hurry.

Jeff
 
#22 ·
Thanks Jeff.
Got right side out and it was adrenaline all the way. I did use a 2” tow strap for safety. I got the loaner OEM from OReillys, threaded bolt went through the bottom shock hole and and fingers as high I can get them. At one point I was cranking done pretty hard and the spring was still tight as can be. Further investigation I found one of the top fingers riding on the center top of the spring. When the spring was getting compressed the side wall of the shock tower push the finger in. Lucky I caught that. I then loosened everything and got a better grab on the fingers. Again I had to really crank down on it to the point that I felt, OK that’s enough. I took the castle nut off the LCA and was waiting fir the spring to take off, while lowering the Jack. I had to keep rapping on the LCA to get it to move down, I then had to pry bar the coil out. I nearly **** myself when fell and was caught by the strap. I guess the PO installed it wrong or had the wrong springs. Look how bent the springs are. It sure had a ton of pressure. No wonder why the front end was so high
 
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