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Tunnel repair

3.9K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  tangobravo  
#1 ·
Hey guys - sorry in advance if this has been covered multiple times. I searched, but didn't find what I was looking for.

I have a 1967 RS/SS (at least I think it is) coupe. I pulled the carpet out, intending to replace it and add some insulation and found a less-than-desirable repair had been done to the shifter tunnel.

The shifter stick says "Muncie," but it's bolted to a Hurst shifter. I suspect a previous owner hacked the tunnel up to get the Hurst installed. The tunnel bits that were cut away were covered up with a thin layer of sheet metal riveted in place.

Is repairing this properly just a matter of welding in the repair panel (Part #:
33-185807-1 at Rick's Camaros)? Are there any other pieces needed for reinforcement?

Hoping I can put a couple of pics with this post. Let me know if different pics would help.



Thank you!
 

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#2 ·
That would be a good way to repair it. You should also find the reinforcement plate (Heartbeat City has them) and carefully map out where to do your cutout. Then tack the reinforcement into place. You have the common cutout people did for Superhifters or Ramrod/ Vertical Gate shifters. Had to remove the console to use them though!
BTW- You are aware of the George Hurst curse- If you run a different stick on his shifter, it is CURSED to miss gears?!! :)
 
#3 ·
It looks very much like mine, my 68 may of had a supershifter in it at one time?
I bought a new hurst Ramrod in 82 and it dropped right in.

Wow the price of those now days surprised me a couple years ago. Still have it boot in all.

You’ll have to post some pictures of your car, we love pics here.
 
#5 ·
TB - mine still had the console with gauges in place when I removed the interior bits. Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to put that back in once this repair has been done?

Also, do you mind helping me a bit more on the reinforcement plate? I looked at everything that made sense at HeartbeatCity. Found their version of the repair panel, but I couldn't find a reinforcement plate.

Thanks, guys!
 
#6 ·
#7 ·
OK - I'm with you now, TB. Pretty sure that piece wasn't there before, as the chrome retainer plate for the shifter boot was just lying on top of the rubber boot, not screwed into anything, when I took the console off.

I'll buy those 2 pieces for sure. So that plate gets welded to the bottom (road-facing side) of the repair panel, right? It looks like there are dimples in the repair panel that might be useful in lining up that plate. They sell a shifter installation template piece, but I'm wondering if that would be needed.

Do you guys have any other recommendations to do while this is happening?

Thank you!
 
#8 ·
The plate goes on the bottom side and was tack welded a few times along the mating surface. Pretty much on your own how to go about doing it. Take your time and do it once. Very common to find these cut up. Virgin floorboards aren't common anymore.
 
#12 ·
Thanks guys - this is great information!

Once the repair panel is in place, I'll need to replace the shifter boot.

I'm not trying to be 100% original with this car. I've heard there are some rubber bits for later models that are better made (the clutch pedal boot through the firewall, for example).

Would you guys recommend using the "correct" GM shifter boot for a 67 manual with a console, or is there another version that is made better and would fit?

Thank you!
 
#13 ·
Stock hole, stock reinforcement plate- Use the stock GM boot. It will fit the Hurst Competition Plus shifter well. Consider the Hurst 4106 stick. The modified Muncie stick can create some fitting problems depending on how it was cut off and how the holes were drilled.
 
#14 ·
Thanks, TB!

I'll add that stick to the parts list. The Muncie stick has been ok, but if I'm in 2nd or 4th - I can't open the console lid. Do you know if the Hurst stick will cure that issue?
 
#15 · (Edited)
Hurst 4106 fits very well. The hole in the floorboard is extremely critical as the shifter movements use most of the available space up- especially left side and forward/back
Add: You were planning on just replacing the missing section? Easy to get the floor cutout right that way. Best to preserve as much original metal as practical!