Hello, so I have about $1000 bucks to play with for my 68 and I'm looking to make my Camaro even more enjoyable to zip around town in. My 68 has a 327 222/222 mild cam, edelbrock intake, Holley 4 barrel 600 carb, long tube headers, stock heads with small valves from the base 327. muncie m20,12 bolt rear with 336 gearing (I believe) hotchkis leaf pack in the rear springs in the front. New shocks, disc brake kit. Looks good, drives good. I want to get a little more pick up and go, should I step up the gears a bit to a 373 or 410? Grab a set of aluminum heads, or the edelbrock e street top end kit(more than a grand I know)? Sell my muncie setup and save up a bit for a tko? Save up for a lq4 swap? Choices... what would you guys do for a strong , streetable car that'll put a bigger grin on your face? Thanks for the input I know the sky is the limit but my pockets are.
What upgrades would you do with $1k
Nhurt
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The jegs heads use to be made by profiler. They are good heads if they still are. I did the TKO last summer. I have 3.73 gears and it is fun on the interstate. That is what I recommend.
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TKO first and then aluminum heads. :laugh:
Heres a tech question for the tko600. This might be huge game changer for me to pull the trigger on the tko. How much of my stock parts can be used for the swap from the m20. I have a 606 bellhousing, 153 tooth flywheel (ya I know Haha) manual z bar clutch. Do I need to get the $3900 dollar kit or can I save some money and get away with using my existing bellohousing, clutch, zbar, throwout bearing, crossmember, speedo cable. I know I'll need a New Yoke, shorten driveshaft, shifter and go??
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I know the 621 BH works not sure about the 606. Clutch will not work and the splines on the TKO input shaft are different.
Z bar will work. Will need a new Xmember. You can use the speedo cable with a bullet adapter.
Shifter comes with the tranny
Quote:
Originally Posted by TomcatSTL View Post
Global West tubular upper control arms.
"Our the control arm has a different geometric shape and possesses a unique camber curve associated with caster. This combination reduces the factory bump steer and provides dramatic handling improvements."
Of all the things the OP mentioned he wanted to accomplish, this is least likely to be noticeable; and there are lots of ways to improve handling beyond the hype of tubular UCAs. Just because they write it in an ad, doesn't make it true.
I agree with your sentiment, Mkelcy.
But, in this case, the additional Caster I was able to get in our '68, after upgrading to these tubular upper arms, made a world of difference in driving enjoyment.
Originally Posted by TomcatSTL View Post
Global West tubular upper control arms.
"Our the control arm has a different geometric shape and possesses a unique camber curve associated with caster. This combination reduces the factory bump steer and provides dramatic handling improvements."
Of all the things the OP mentioned he wanted to accomplish, this is least likely to be noticeable; and there are lots of ways to improve handling beyond the hype of tubular UCAs. Just because they write it in an ad, doesn't make it true.
I agree with your sentiment, Mkelcy.
But, in this case, the additional Caster I was able to get in our '68, after upgrading to these tubular upper arms, made a world of difference in driving enjoyment.
How handy are you with tools? If you want bang for your buck, find a set of Vortec heads in the junk yard and modify the spring seats so you can run a cam with more lift. Summit sells a tool for this and it can be done with a drill. Also tap for screw in rocker studs. You’ll have a bunch of that $1000 left over so if your not already running the RPM Air Gap intake, get one. I bet all that would give a very noticeable kick in the pants.
I can confirm what others said about 4.11s and a Muncie. Even with my clapped out 350 with a couple flat cam lobes, it would snap pretty good at low speeds but I’d never want to run it at 70mph for any length of time.
I can confirm what others said about 4.11s and a Muncie. Even with my clapped out 350 with a couple flat cam lobes, it would snap pretty good at low speeds but I’d never want to run it at 70mph for any length of time.
If the bellhousing was used with a Muncie it should work with a TKO. I think the quote I got from SST was just over $3700 for the TKO600 and did not include a bellhousing or throw out bearing. I think the splines are different on the input shaft so at least a new clutch disk is needed. Not sure on the throwout bearing but I don’t see it listed in the quote I got. Your Z bar should work but you’ll need a cross member and that was included in my quote. A new driveshaft, speedo cable and shifter were as well. Keep in mind that if it is included in the kit, then it is probably because the stuff you have won’t work.
68 SS/RS, 468 BB TKX, SFC,3.73 Posi, Original Some kinda metallic Blue, QA1 Coil Overs/control arms.
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I have a question on the TKO install. It hasn't been mentioned here, but it was my understanding that the floor tunnel had to be cut open and modified to fit a TKO. Is there any truth to that? That could certainly be a game changer for some people.
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18,696 Posts
TKO500 and 600 fit without tunnel mods.
Cutting tunnels is/was needed for T56 6 speeds
68 SS/RS, 468 BB TKX, SFC,3.73 Posi, Original Some kinda metallic Blue, QA1 Coil Overs/control arms.
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Good to know. I will remember this when the time comes on a project car. Thanks.
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If they were low, the drive line angle wasn’t ideal that for sure. I have a at minimum I have a 3” drop with my TKO and it is touching my tunnel.
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I can't speak to your car, my current '68 is as smooth as glass - suggesting that the drive line angles are just fine.
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Not doubting you one bit, but is your car hight in the back ?
I ask because my buddy with his 68 Firebird and 6spd ( no tunnel mod) can’t get the rear down level at all, he has to run stink bug to make it work.
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