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Changing color and using lacquer not new paint materials

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Melmount

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
How dumb of an idea is it to change original color to a preferred color on a 69 z28?
I like hugger orange. I was also thinking to use lacquer. It looks different. I know the new paints are nice. I like a buffed lacquer and have wanted an orange 69.
 
#2 ·
Melmount said:
How dumb of an idea is it to change original color to a preferred color on a 69 z28?
I like hugger orange. I was also thinking to use lacquer. It looks different. I know the new paints are nice. I like a buffed lacquer and have wanted an orange 69.
Click to expand...
It’s your car. Paint it any color you like.
 
#4 ·
Using lacquer is working backwards. I had a buddy that wanted the same thing. I couldn't talk him into the base clear paint. Lacquer is ok if you're just going to look at it. If you are going to drive it it will chip and piss you off. Twice the prep as well. Base clear is much more user friendly as far as working with too. I stopped using lacquer many years ago and will never go back.
 
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#5 ·
I'll give you my take on lacquer....
It looks nice, but mainly when you see a lacquer paint job, it was for someone particular, hence the reason it looks so good, not that lacquer actually looks better.

I did some repair work on a show car that I previously painted in lacquer (14 coats color, no clear) & could no longer get the correct pigments for more paint.
I used PPG base/clear instead. When the car is detailed flawlessly, you see virtually no difference. Keep in mind this is only because I know it has been done & specifically try to find a difference.

After a washing or 2, the base/clear still looks the same & the lacquer has lost a little shine.
Keep in mind, lacquer is not a durable paint & continuously oxidizes to some extent... actually all paint does, but newer catalyzed paints do so at a much lesser rate.

Get bird droppings on lacquer & it will eat into the paint, as will water spots in some cases.
If you intend to drive it, lacquer is the last choice.

Trust me, paint has evolved over time & embrace the technology
I have no reason to ever paint another car in lacquer.
 
#6 ·
This is your lucky day:

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but I like others would discourage it. There are painters that have pretty much perfected how to shoot modern single stage and base clears to mimic lacquer. Maybe best to find one of them.
 
#7 ·
IMO A lacquer paint job should only be for a judged trailer queen or to repaint a section of survivor paint. My car's Glasurit base/clearcoat paint looks the same as when it was painted 13 years ago.

Can't go wrong with Hugger Orange! Get ready for $$$ paint costs
 
#8 ·
Melmount said:
Is it hammering value not staying original? It’s a z28 with original motor etc but gm made a lot of em.
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Since you asked, I would stick with the original color; unless you hate the it. In the world of vehicle value, it typically goes your way with the original, and you say yours has born with parts. Speaking of….what is the original? Can we get a few pictures?
 
#9 ·
I sprayed poly on my 68 Chevelle and bought lacquer for the Camaro. Mostly because you really should have a booth if spraying poly yourself. The previous owner started to jam The 71 SS with red poly and I have now fully rejammed the doors and sprayed the inside trunk with factory correct copper color lacquer getting it ready for full panel paint. As commented above in a way you will be painting with an inferior paint that will not last anyway as long but the sheen will be correct and not as glossy. Lacquer is also much easier to correct should something get into the paint or should a run occur. However the first car I painted was my 74 Z28 that I changed the color to black ( Dupont 99L) and it came out great and continued to paint many cars using laquer. However I bought my 99L for $19 back then and over a grand for 5 quarts color and one gallon clear today so it is no longer cheap. Yes do use lacquer clear as it will add to extending life as it reduces UV damage and the dreaded wax jobs that lacquer requires.
 
#10 ·
One other consideration I will add is if the original color had metallic, it will fade overtime if done in lacquer. The metallic is not very protected by the lacquer and so oxidizes and eventually pretty much goes away completely unless cleared with a UV resistant clear.
 
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#11 ·
I started out using black Lacquer, all underneath body and hood but it was not working out so I switched to epoxy which worked much better. Caar is 1985 30 E Blue to match my 85 IROC. Bottom line if it is black I painted it, if it is Blue Henry did it. Except for roof, deck panel, and doors, All new GM sheet metal acquired by my friend who had worked for Chevy before opening his own shop. Still got his discount. Henry didn't like one door so got a donor. Amazingly, sheet metal install, bodywork and paint only cost me $4000, Not including the sheet metal I furnished and took 13 months, but Henry was glad to have something to keep his guys busy when it was slow. It came home in late 1988. BC/CC paint is still pretty much like new except two small chips Kelly put in it when he did an alignment. I suspect today my bill would have upwards of $20K.
I did do my motorcyle in BC/CC, Tank, Side Covers and Windjammer. Acceptable for a 1982 Bike but as with any paint job do not get impatient.
 
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#12 ·
Unless you plan on selling it paint how you want and don't hide the fact that you changed colors if asked. It can always be put back the way it was.

I come from a family that has always owned and operated paint & body shop. The old school paints (lacquer, enamel) was the norm. Todays 2 and 3 stage paints far outweigh yesterdays paints for durability and such. I would stick with the new stuff.

On a side note... With my '68 and it's original color I have a unique situation. My car was originally Ash Gold (G2) but the CT and POP states otherwise. They state Ermine White (C2). I bought the car in '86 from its original owner with full documentation including mileage. When I went to refinish it in '87 I removed the doors, hood, deck lid and all of the trim as well as the front and rear door panels and it was originally Ash Gold. The original owner said that Ash Gold was the color when he purchased it in November of '67. The only thing that I can think of is the C was misread as a G.
 
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#13 ·
I paint everyday and own a shop. Restos, fabwork, custom paint, pinstriping and airbrushing. Cannot believe the info provided in this thread. I'm not buying your car so do whatever you want to it. My friend has a black lacquer L78 that rarely sees the road. Looks mint. I drive my cars like I hate them so I will stick with urethane.
 
#14 ·
396 SS/RS said:
Unless you plan on selling it paint how you want and don't hide the fact that you changed colors if asked. It can always be put back the way it was.

I come from a family that has always owned and operated paint & body shop. The old school paints (lacquer, enamel) was the norm. Todays 2 and 3 stage paints far outweigh yesterdays paints for durability and such. I would stick with the new stuff.

On a side note... With my '68 and it's original color I have a unique situation. My car was originally Ash Gold (G2) but the CT and POP states otherwise. They state Ermine White (C2). I bought the car in '86 from its original owner with full documentation including mileage. When I went to refinish it in '87 I removed the doors, hood, deck lid and all of the trim as well as the front and rear door panels and it was originally Ash Gold. The original owner said that Ash Gold was the color when he purchased it in November of '67. The only thing that I can think of is the C was misread as a G.
Click to expand...
Pictures?
 
#15 ·
fairfax1000 said:
Since you asked, I would stick with the original color; unless you hate the it. In the world of vehicle value, it typically goes your way with the original, and you say yours has born with parts. Speaking of….what is the original? Can we get a few pictures?
Click to expand...
no way. If the color is not a desirable color change it. Guys convinced me to go original FG on a #s match 69 Z28 I restored. All interested buyers said they would buy at my asking price if it was a more desirable color like LB, HO or CS. They could have cared less about the original color.

that decision to go original against my gut feel cost me at least $10k.
 
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#16 ·
I agree with John. Orange sells, and many like it. Orange is not for everyone, but I always get compliments on the orange. The bright colors, orange, yellow, red and blue are the way to go in my opinion.
 
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#17 ·
Vega$69 said:
no way. If the color is not a desirable color change it. Guys convinced me to go original FG on a #s match 69 Z28 I restored. All interested buyers said they would buy at my asking price if it was a more desirable color like LB, HO or CS. They could have cared less about the original color.

that decision to go original against my gut feel cost me at least $10k.
Click to expand...
The OP hasn’t said what the color it is.
 
#18 ·
Vega$69 said:
no way. If the color is not a desirable color change it. Guys convinced me to go original FG on a #s match 69 Z28 I restored. All interested buyers said they would buy at my asking price if it was a more desirable color like LB, HO or CS. They could have cared less about the original color.

that decision to go original against my gut feel cost me at least $10k.
Click to expand...
My friend and his wife with over 50 cars and a multi million collection have cars that have been featured in magazines. I like green. I've restored them for him and his wife and my name is in the magazine. Never lost a dime on any green car he sold. And I would buy a green car in a heartbeat.
 
#19 ·
396 SS/RS said:
On a side note... With my '68 and it's original color I have a unique situation. My car was originally Ash Gold (G2) but the CT and POP states otherwise. They state Ermine White (C2). I bought the car in '86 from its original owner with full documentation including mileage. When I went to refinish it in '87 I removed the doors, hood, deck lid and all of the trim as well as the front and rear door panels and it was originally Ash Gold. The original owner said that Ash Gold was the color when he purchased it in November of '67. The only thing that I can think of is the C was misread as a G.
Click to expand...
Post some photos of the tag and PoP (start a new thread). I wouldn't be surprised if those "C"s are actually G"s.
 
#20 ·
Vega$69 said:
no way. If the color is not a desirable color change it. Guys convinced me to go original FG on a #s match 69 Z28 I restored. All interested buyers said they would buy at my asking price if it was a more desirable color like LB, HO or CS. They could have cared less about the original color.

that decision to go original against my gut feel cost me at least $10k.
Click to expand...
Too big of hurry to $e!! FG requires more patience for top dollar.:)
 
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