Try a clay bar.

 

And how does the shop explain this BS? I'd get them over to clean it off. They should return the car in the same condition they got it.

Clay bar or light compound should work

 

I found an amazing product called Wizards from Innate.com. It works very well on aluminum and chrome, and removes most overspray from those surfaces. The metal polish isn't made for painted surfaces, but a powder coated surface would be o.k I think. It polishes at 1/2 the rate of Mother's or Neverdull, and leaves a nice protective residue. My Weld Racing wheels look like mirrors using this stuff, and I don't have to constantly do them over and over anymore. I haven't seen it sold anywhere.Some airline mechanics turned me on to it through Snap On. If nothing else, it can be used on other things for your ride.

 

Powder coat is paint, it just has a heat activated catalyst instead of a liquid catalyst. It will likely still scuff it.

 

Try acetone in an inconspicuous spot first.

 

Walmart sells 94% isopropyl.. Ive used that on my aircraft parts to take paint off before...

 

Acetone is a no no. The place that did the powder coating said they use acetone to turn the powder coating back to a liquid to redo a bad spot.They didn't have any suggestions for cleaning that's why I turned to the Camaro Brethren.
These are good suggestions and I will try the clay bar and compound. Keep 'em coming though.
As to the body shop? Well, let's say the overspray on my powder coated frame was the least of my problems with them.

70% isopropyl sorta works. It doesn't make the powder coating tack up. Gonna get the 94% tomorrow and try that.

 

My painter's helper did this to my subframe. We got some painters hand cleaner from NAPA and believe it or not it took it off. It took a little while and had to be polished out to shine but it didn't do any permanent damage.

 

Mickey, Look into the Wizards products. They are awesome. I buy their stuff
at my local paint suppliers. Another suggestion might be Goof Off or Goo Gone.
Also straight dish washing liquid works pretty damn good.

 

There is a product called Gone at our local automotive paint store. It will remove over spray from powdercoat quickly and not hurt the finish. It works great on getting the yellow and white road paint off of your vehicle also. I have also used thinner sprayed onto a rag to get it off as well. Clay bar does work well also and is the first thing I would try if your subframe is powdercoated gloss black. I have a powdercoating shop and help people with these issues all of the time.

 

Why not just touch up the spot with some gloss black paint? I had every piece of metal that could be removed from my car powder coated. When I scratched the powder coat putting the suspension back together I touched the area up with semi gloss paint. Can't even tell the diffrence, and the paint seems to bond to the powder coat. Just a thought.

 

Why powdercoat or paint a frame before you do all the bodywork. There is no way to keep it all clean during the bodywork stage. Have you tried taping it all up while doing bodywork.

I say this because I did the same thing and got overspray on the subframe. I tried cleaning off the powdwercoat but it was all in the crevices. I ended up repainting the subframe with paint.

My painter has the same thing right now with another 69. Nice painted frame and doing bodywork.

I got the car back rolling with the doors and frontend off. I just blew the car back apart and painted it all black again.

 

Why powdercoat or paint a frame before you do all the bodywork.

The frame was done 10 years ago. It was taken into the shop almost 3 years ago. Since it's the only frame I have it was used to move the car. My car was not in for paint so they painted something close to it without bothering to cover my frame. The frame could have been disconnected and rolled out of the way-would have taken 10 minutes. It could have been covered. This body shop does high end work. There really wasn't any excuse for the **** body work that was done or getting paint on a beautiful glossy frame. It still baffles me and makes me angry if I think about it too long. I really should have just sued them and recovered the $5500 I paid and money for the body panels I would have had to replace to do the job correctly. What was done? Two rear quarter skins,outer wheel wells, both outside rockers, Misc. patchwork. So....now I have thought about it too long.
End of this post

 

Onward and upward. Thank you everyone for replies to cleaning. Here's my results if it helps someone else. When Greg said powdercoat was paint it was like a light went off. Ahhh.Of course. I don't know what I thought it really was.
I tried Goo Gone. It hazes the PC without really removing any paint particles.
Got the 91% isopropyl alcohol. It removed a little bit and hazed the PC.
Got some coarse rubbing compound. That stuff works but doesn't leave a glossy shine. I will get some finer compound and try that.
Tried the laquer thinner again. I rubbed it til the PC just tacked and then stopped. It gets tacky quickly, maybe 15 seconds. It works but the surface is somewhat hazy.
The saving grace of all these that hazed or left a duller finish than desired was Novus fine scratch remover. Bascially a fine rubbing compound. I rubbed it on any of the above and it brings the PC back to a really glossy finish. If I got anal about it I could get a show finish with that stuff.
I am just going to have to do this the hard way-clean and then polish. This is not a show car and not much of the frame shows when the car is all together so I'll do what shows.

 

I have used the 0000 steel wool pads to remove overspary from a lot of different parts, even on clear coat it leaves a very light sand marks that will re polish out with very little effort. I would imagine that on power coat it should not harm it, might be worth a shot.

 

Not sure where to look Jeremiah but I will get some and try it.

 

Lowes usually stocks them around here, have 4 different ones ranging from 0 up to 0000

 

Finally got my hands on some 4 ought steel wool. It also takes the gloss off the surface. It works QUICK !! Tried some polishing compound with a turtle on the lid and it sorta shines up the after effects of the steel wool. Once again the Novus #2 when applied after the steel wool shined the surface to a high gloss with minimal work by hand. Saw some Meguir's polishing compound and at $10 a small bottle will stick with the Novus.
So, the plan is to use laquer thinner or steel wool then follow with the Novus to polish it up. It does bring the frame back to original shiny high gloss. Sometimes ya just can't escape doing the elbow work.
I was working in the interior last night and thought I would apply the above process to the light orange peel on the dash from spraying Eastwood's ceramic gloss black. Forget it!! That paint is tough.