Takes 15min or so to drop tank.
maybe 30 or so to tuck it back up.,if that.
Not a big deal at all.
but you’ll probably want to clean stuff up before you put it all back up under the car.

 

Use fuel injection hose (Gates Barricade) to replace the existing black fuel hose. It will resist deterioration caused by ethanol fuel.

 

That's a good idea even though I run non-ethanol gas exclusively in it. Stuff is expensive

 

Why are you assuming it's a sender issue ?.

While it could be the sender there are also chances it is something else and/or you might have multiple issues.

Do a search on he site and read up on ways to troubleshoot the circuit.

After all, you know that once you do drop the tank, the issue(s) will be somehwere else.

Jim

 

Start with this trouble shooting guide.

Gas Gauge Failure. . .How to fix...Thank you, Brian (69...

My gas guage reads beyond full. I have visually checked the ground wires. It went bad while driving and I think I have about 1/4 or less gas. What should I check and what is the fix? I am thinking of dropping the tank and checking the sending unit. I would'nt think the wiring would just go...

www.camaros.net

 

Ya'll are right. It could be something else. I'm so used to working on new cars that it's always automatically the sender. Because I'm also having issues with both gauge lights and the turn signals. I'm going to read through that thread and troubleshoot

 

First step. See what gage reads before working on system. Find the ground wire from sender and remove it from structure. Clean up ground point and the ground wire terminal to ensure a good ground can be made. reconnect wire to structure and tighten securely. Spray sealant or paint over the connection. Then see what gage reads. Report the results.

 

If you are having issues with the gauge lights also it could be the gauge cluster ground. The center strap may not be grounded properly. My fuel gauge would work until I turned the headlights on, and then it would move to empty. The dash lights were also dim. You can add a piece of wire to one of the screws on the metal part of the back of the gauges and ground the other end to the steering column support. I did that and all is good.

 

Another option and tool for your tool box if you don’t already have one laying around is a cheap parts store fuel gauge. You can test right in the trunk
Then you’ll know if it’s in the tank or wiring going forward.

ive done that, but also have a few gauge sets in the garage to test with.

 

This is the ground strap Tim is referring to.

 

Ok so I'm looking at the back of the gauge cluster right? And I just have to figure out how to remove the cluster to check that ground wire?

 

Can you tell us what the gage does when you turn ignition to on, before you start tearing apart the dash? Better troubleshooting ideas may be afforded to you.

 

When I start the car that I know to be full, it moves between past full to 1/2 and sometimes when I turn my headlights on it will go to empty. It's a moving target. But the speedometer seems to work fine (albeit about 5mph slower than actual speed)

 

Also one other thing to point out. The lights on the gauges don't always work. Sometimes I have to give them a little light tap to get the lighting on the gauges to work.

 

That is basically what mine did. I would try grounding the cluster first. Try loosening and retightening the center screw in the cluster/gauge housing that is right above the steering column. Be sure not to over tighten as it may crack your plastic housing. If that doesn't work try the piece of wire like I suggested in the earlier post.

 

It seems like the cluster is the easiest course of action at this point, so I will try that first.

 

Headlights pulling that much power and changing gage reading seems to be indicative of a grounding issue. Make sure the battery ground is perfectly clean and tight. Then clean up sender ground, then clean up instrument panel grounding. This is in order of easiest to accomplish and all these will affect the symptoms you have.

 

Although the '67 AIM does not show a ground wire to the instrument cluster, the '68 AIM does under UPC 12, B2, item 6.

 

I felt under the dash a few minutes ago. I don't even find a ground anywhere that I can feel. I'll pull the gauge later and see what i'm working with. But it doesn't appear that they have it grounded at all.

 

UPDATE: It ended up being the hazard switch. The contacts were dirty. Now that it's working, the turn signals are all working and all of the brake lights are working.

 

I thought this was a fuel gauge issue also?

 

Still working on that one. I thought the lights are more important for now.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

I've had fuel gauge issues due to a loose nut on the printed circuit. It cause the signal to lose it's ground. I just tightened a little and the issue disappeared.

 

Yes, good progress made.
I suggest going into the trunk and find the tan wire wire and split the connection.
Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance in reference to ground and ensure the sending unit is working, 0 to 90 ohms.
Next would be connecting a 50 ohm resistor between the ground screw on structure and tan wire into body harness and ensure fuel gauge indicates approximately half tank.
If leaving ign switch ON, disconnect dist lead from coil - post, iif point set (OE) distributor is being used.

 

Good one Vega$69, Reminds me of the time I'm returning from a car show in my '71 Opel GT. It was a sunny day and all was good till the tach dropped to zero and the car coasted to a stop. Luckily my hazard lights worked. The tow truck guy asked if it was out of gas. Of course not, the gauge reads 1/2 full. The next day after doing a thorough check and finding no faults, added a few liters of fuel. It started right up. With a full tank, the gas gauge read 1/2 full.