[Larry Madsen]

Rotating assembly is in. Pistons are measuring between .004" and .005" above deck ... with one possibly being .006"?

I'll be using .051" head gaskets. At those numbers above deck, I don't want to take any chances on the .0415"/.0485"

At .045" and up I'd feel fine, but any tighter than that and I'm getting into the fringe ... .051" it is.

Compression ratio looks to be about 7.56 DCR and 9.23 SCR. I'd be happy with it a tad higher, but these numbers will keep me in good shape for pump gas, mid-grade at worst.

I have the cam advanced 2 degrees (on the timing set), which should be good for torque rating. I do not have the ability to actually degree the cam here at the house. I'll be living with this setting.

Ross ran the combo through a simulator, it shows 458HP a 5300rpm and 490ft lbs. No way to know just how accurate those numbers are, but at any rate it should be a decent improvement over the 350 I had.

I'm waiting on the new head gaskets from Summit. I have two days off, so I'll get the bottom buttoned up.

My Melling 55HV oil pump had the pick-up contacting the bottom of the pan (in the previous build) and I'm using the same pump model again. I installed the new pick-up thinking I could adjust and get it up a tad ... no dice.

You can see the contact "crescent" here in the bottom of the pan.
HZSA2979 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
It's the cover that is making contact. The edge near the tube and pump base ... you can see it's a bit roughed up there.
BGQL5146 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I don't want the pick-up wedged into the bottom of the pan at all, so I have created a crescent relief in the bottom of the pan to accommodate the area (of the pick-up cover) that was hitting.

This is the recess "modification" I made in the bottom of the pan. I marked off the crescent in sharpie and the screen side is a squiggly area. With this modification the pan will mount w/o gasket and no contact with the pick-up. Adding a gasket will allow additional clearance. Measured distance from the screen to the bottom of the pan is good.
OJQB7221[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

My oil pan is baffled, so I also had to clearance the baffle for the 383-rotating assembly. I wasn't expecting this issue. It's only the raised ribs creating the problem.
Red dots are the points of contact.
MBGU5986[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

That's about where I am at right now.

 

[SoCal805]

Good you have clearance for oil pump pick up. I also had to do some minor pan clearance for a 383 LT1 motor I have. Used a baseball bat (big end) with pan on folded towel and a BFH. Not for oil pump but for front section of pan where #2 rod bolt slightly scraped

Always good to lay pan on without gasket, rotate engine with ear to pan to listen for any interference, especially on 383 builds

 

[Larry Madsen]

Good you have clearance for oil pump pick up. I also had to do some minor pan clearance for a 383 LT1 motor I have. Used a baseball bat (big end) with pan on folded towel and a BFH. Not for oil pump but for front section of pan where #2 rod bolt slightly scraped

Always good to lay pan on without gasket, rotate engine with ear to pan to listen for any interference, especially on 383 builds

The clearance for the oil pump will look clean and natural on the exterior of the pan when I'm finished. I don't want it to appear as an emergency response. Fortunately, I had the existing crescent to use as a guide for the modification.

On the crank clearance the two near the end of the pan are flat with the bottom of the pan. The two up near the "X" require cutting through the ribs to open space.

This is what I have right now. I'd like to do a little clean-up on this. Need to assure no loose shards are left behind ... whatever that takes. I realize this is not pretty, but the crank clears, w/o gasket..
DSC_2919 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

 

[SoCal805]

Gotta do what you need to for the 383 clearances. My 383 is a Gen 2 LT1 so pan is different in that it does not have the inner part extending as far forward as yours. It does have a windage tray which attaches to 3 extended main cap bolts that I had to stand off using 1/8" washers to clear crank

Your build will be a huge power increase over your old 350. Especially in the TQ dept.

 

[Larry Madsen]

I'm ready to paint the block and pan.

I found my color of choice. I went to four stores and discovered the shelves were bare and selection like the Model-T ... "You can have any color you want as long as it's black". NAPA had paint and they had the Cummins Beige. I'm going with this color to go along with the Capri Cream exterior color. Good Idea/Bad Idea? ... I have no clue, but it's what I am doing.

IMG_2967[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Once the paint sets up, I'll be proceeding with assembly. I have the timing button issue rectified and the oil pan clearance for the crank and oil pump.

Edited to add: All painted.
IMG_2971[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

IMG_2969[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

IMG_2974[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

IMG_2973[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

 

[Larry Madsen]

Timing set in
Timing set install by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Advanced 2 degrees
Timing set 2 Degree Advance by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Timing cover and adjustable marker installed. Cam button in with acceptable play on cam
Timing cover installed by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Rotating assembly in and torque triple checked 70lbs inner main, 65 outer main, 45 rod caps
IMG_2976[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

 

[Larry Madsen]

Next up is the fuel pump rod. This one is a roller tip
DSC_2946 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

The "spin-on" oil filter adapter
DSC_2955 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

And the oil pump. The bolt length on the oil pump is critical. Too long and it will bore straight into the rear main bearing. There is nothing stopping it from doing so. I'll use a bit of blue thread locker and 60 lb torque spec on this one.
Melling M55HV by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

When I pulled this engine, it had a 3/8" tube inside the crank case to guide/control the dipstick. That tube did not survive the rebuild. I need to decide if I need it ... or not.

This is the dipstick extending into the block. It enters at the #4 main cap and appears to stay clear of the nearby counterweights.

I have one coming:

305 307 350 400 SMALL BLOCK CHEVY LOWER ENGINE OIL DIPSTICK TUBE 3951600 | eBay

I'll know the dipstick can't get into things we don't want it getting into.

DSC_2949 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Here it is.
DSC_2956 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

 

[Larry Madsen]

Houston, I think we have a problem!

I had been unable to come up with a good way to measure clearance between the cam and piston rods as they rotate.

I found info recommending the use of a zip-tie. It sounded good to me since I won't damage the cam with a piece of plastic.

This is a large zip-tie
DSC_2961 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

This is the crease created in the zip-tie when I lay it between the #6 rod and the cam ... then rotate the crank. Very obvious and severe contact there. Of course, I can feel the resistance while rotating the crank.
DSC_2960 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

This is a smaller zip-tie of .025" thickness. Also hits.
NUWJ4449[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I have so far been unable to detect this tight clearance on any other place.

I'll take another shot at it tomorrow, but #6 is tight!

Edited to add: I found a zip-tie that measures .050". I'll run the same test on all 8 rod sweeps. If this (.050") clears I will consider the clearances good.
DSC_2962 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I know will need to pull #6 and do some work there to create more clearance.

What I am able to do is lay the zip-tie across the lobe of the cam, then rotate the cranks to pass the rod across the lobe.

The zip-tie is long enough for me to hold the extended end to keep it in place during the pass.

Link to thread about resolving this problem:
Checking cam / rod clearance on a stroker | Team Camaro Tech (camaros.net)

 

[Larry Madsen]

Heads going back on.

IMG_3051[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr
Using this thread sealant. Lots of bolt holes go into water on these SBC engines.
QLPL4714[1] by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I'll add (edit in) some info regarding these Dart heads. They went through a lot getting ready for this build.

Electrolysis rotted water port
Plugged after cleanout 2 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

This is the repair. Howard welded in some new material, then milled the surface.

DSC_2970 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Chambers were different size ... one head to the other. 68cc vs 71cc

Not sure how that happens. These heads came out the box new and went on the 350 version of this engine, 20 years ago. We milled the 71cc to match the 68cc.

So here we are with 68cc chambers ... on heads rated from the dart factory as 64cc.
DSC_2971 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr


The initial problem that brought me to build this new engine was a broken valve spring on #1 exhaust. PIC here
Broken spring #1 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Another problem with them was they had no spring cups. Now I do.

I imagine the "no cup" situation may have contributed to both the noise I had been hearing for the entire life of the prior engine and eventually the broken valve spring.

DSC_2977 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

My cam is a rather mild hydraulic roller. It only calls for 110 and 320 on the spring pressures.

The springs that came off were very weak and probably were weak form the beginning ... another problem. That problem would be 100% my fault.

The new springs are set up for 135 and 335 and are mounted in spring cups to keep them stable at the base.

 

[Larry Madsen]

Progress slowed a bit for me. I decided I needed new push rods, so I had to order and wait.

Valve train is set.
DSC_3034 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

We Started with an assume setting based on the old half turn, 3/4 turn, etc. They were all set to half turn then an additional 1/8th turn (5/8 turn total). We are looking for .020" to .060" of preload.

Checked that with a paper clip (.037") and another wire pin I had here (.060"). All 16 accept the .037" between the plunger and C-clip and do not accept the .060". This leans to the high end of the initial range and we are calling this good.
DSC_3033 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

I am reusing the previous Crane HR cam and stainless steel 1.5 rockers. Pushrods are 7.050", same as previous. The old ones test rolled true and straight, however there were a couple with some issues on the tip I did not like.
DSC_3035 by Larry Madsen, on Flickr

Also got the oil pan on.

Time to set the intake and get it buttoned up.

 

[SoCal805]

Looking good Larry

My $.02 on intake gasket is the FelPro "Printo" seal ones. They have the blue stripe around the ports. Permatex Black Ultra RTV is what I use on china walls vs the gasket ends

 

[Larry Madsen]

I have the Felpro 1205 on hand here.

It is striped in blue around the ports ... on top only.

 

[Larry Madsen]

I have the intake on now. I started out using the (china wall) gaskets. Stuck them down and waited over night for them set securely on the block. When I set the intake on and sized things up, I quickly realized, I don't have enough space to use the gaskets. I cleaned them off and went with the Permatex on the front and rear.

I like to use the gaskets if I can but if the space is not there it becomes a no-go.

I had the metal plates blocking the exhaust cross-over ports on the previous install. I used those again. The 1205 gaskets do not have a provision for that cross-over. In doing some research I read that the hot exhaust will burn/blow though that solid gasket if you have the port and do not use the plate.

I have a barrage of unrelated projects coming at me, so progress on the engine has slowed a bit

 

[CantRepeat]

Who did you have make your push rods? How long of a wait time was it?

 

[Larry Madsen]

Who did you have make your push rods? How long of a wait time was it?

Just shipping time for wait.

They are off the shelf, one-piece, heat treated, 5/16 X 7.050"

 

[CantRepeat]

Just shipping time for wait.

They are off the shelf, one-piece, heat treated, 5/16 X 7.050"

Thanks, who did you buy through? I'm putting together a new motor and will need some.

 

[Larry Madsen]

Common vendor … Summit Racing.

I was tempted buy a set just a tad longer, these are the same length as what I had before and they were available to be shipped that day.

The longer option was three week wait

 

[CantRepeat]

Common vendor … Summit Racing.

I was tempted buy a set just a tad longer, these are the same length as what I had before and they were available to be shipped that day.

The longer option was three week wait

Thanks Larry. I figured it was a bit of wait on custom length stuff. I hope I wont need to go that route.

 

[SoCal805]

IMHO, off the shelf PR typically come in .050 length increments. Unless you are building a $100k race only motor....the .050 increment difference in lengths are fine. Lets say your "dead nuts" measurement is 7.037.....a 7.050 will be perfectly fine in function and longevity

You do want to use hardened PR if running guide plates

I have used Trick Flow, Comp brands without issue

 

[CantRepeat]

I've got checker springs and adjustable pushrods so we'll see how it goes when I get them together.