The BTM is probably ideal. The BTM is made for boosted applications and has an adjustment knob you mount inside the car that allows you to pull out a set number of degrees of timing to pull for each pound of boost. With it being adjustable inside the car, you can add or subtract timing as conditions dictate.

The 8361 is pretty much their standard performance street distributor and requires an MSD box. It's not what is referred to as a "ready to run" model.

I'm using a regular old 6A on my truck with factory distributor but it has a knock sensor and limiter already.

 

6al with the pro billet dist!

 

There are guys over at theturboforums.com raving about the 6530. You can tune custom timing curves on your laptop.

Me personally, I run a Pertronix flamethrower HEI with coil in cap and no ignition control box. I lock the timing at 33* and don't pull any with boost. I can get away with that because I run low boost though.

I had a universal BTM on it (without the multi-spark 6 box) and hated it. The car would not idle well at all or "take the gas" at WOT. Chased a lot of things but all was fixed when I pulled the BTM. I'm not saying the 6BTM is no good as that is NOT the one I ran. It was probably my fault for trying to do it on a budget and not get the multi-spark box, just the Universal BTM.

Anyway, tell us more about your combo, your budget and your goals. That will really determine what you need.

 

MSD made the right recommendation, you want the probillet distributor. Exactly what I would recommend with their high output large coil and a 6A or AL box.


If you are running higher boost you want the boost control box too to pull some timing under high boost. Also will allow you to dial back some spark for a bad quality fuel. Exactly what I would do.

Not sure the 6530 is really needed. Use your probillet distibutor, if you are an all out racer go for the 6530, its really too much for street performance.

We really do need to know more information to make a good rec.

 

OK here are some specs.

383 (Scat 3.75" forged crank, Crower Sportsman 6" I beam rods, and SRP Forged flat tops)
9.83 static compression
Hydraulic Roller Camshaft 110 degree, 462I/470E 288I/284E, @.50 210/215
Edelbrock RPM 70cc heads w/ 1.5 rollers
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
QFT 750 for blow-though application
Z-28 oil pan kit.

Procharger D-1SC with about 8lb. boost. I have smaller and larger pulleys with belts for later.

Tremec 3550 which will be upgraded to the TKO 600 before I add the blower. Lakewood SFI Bellhousing.

Hotchkis subframe connectors and solid bushings will be added before the blower.

12 Bolt Moser 3.73

I was thinking of adding an alki injection system as well

I hope this covers it.

This will be a weekend cruiser/street fighter. Couple trips to car shows up to 5 hours away and up to 4500' elevation.

 

You need more carb, its close but you need more. I am running a 950 on my 248/254 on my 383 N/A. At 8 psi thats 8/14.7 so means just over 50% higher VE. This means your engine will be acting similar to a 600 CI engine, not enough carb.

I run alky injection on my s/c 360 LT1. It is a fail safe, in case my gasoline quality values and will cause me to knock the alky will keep it safe and it allows me to run much higher boost and timing.

You will be absolutely happy with the systems we recommended.

I would be careful pushing more boost on those I beams. I got H beams.

 

I will need to use what I have for now and tune the 750 as best as possible. My cam is not that large, I thought I would be good but I guess not.

If I built the motor myself, I would have installed H beam rods. I know I will be at the limit with these rods. I picked it up used with less than 500 miles, it's better than what was in there. I do plan on getting a World Products stroker at a later time which will be built for a blower motor.

I might just run the smaller pulley in order to get the boost down to about 6 lbs for a safety measure.

The 6530 is less than the 6462. Which one will be easiest to control, I don't want to spend all my time programming. I want it to do all the work once it's set.

 

your 750 is fine, im sure you wont be up the 7000rpm range all the time??

 

6530 with the 8361 you will be just fine!
we built a 555bbc with a f2 and 10lbs of boost, it did just fine..laptops are for civic's

 

How does the 6530 sense boost, is there a vacuum port on the box? Will I need to program the timing retard for the rpm range or does it have a port to hook up vacuum?

 

No offense to anyone, but a 750 will support 1000 HP boosted. With boost you need less carb than N/A, not more.

I like your setup except for the compression. Is there a chance you can add a thicker head gasket and get it down a bit?

I run 9.3:1 and with 8 PSI and water/meth injection I don't need to pull any timing out. Just a thought.

I assume the 6530 requires a MAP sensor but am not sure.

 

Ya wow your right, I didn't think about that carbs use air velocity and the pressure drop to shear fuel. YA he is completely right you are fine.

He is right though about meth/water injection its very important. Alkyjection or something like that makes a get that uses a map sensor and will let you do progressive methanol injection curves. I run 8.7:1 with 15 psi on methanol injection.

Not sure but the boost timer I have uses a pressure port so I assume the 6530 is the same

 

Get the 6AL-2 Programmable and be done with it. You can program your own timing curve with your boost levels. Much better box than the BTM. I would always pull timing when boosting. Not just lock it out. Go to www.theturboforums.com and do a search. That's the box I'm going to use with my twin turbos..

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Ignitions/6530_-_MSD_Digital_Programmable_6AL-2.aspx

 

Hey guys, it's been a while but I bought the 6530 and now I am really confused on how to program this box. Are there any examples on where I need to be? I have just been running it right out of the box without any programming. Can someone shoot me over a basic program as a starting point? I still need to lock out the dizzy, I will do that once I get a program. I don't have any vacuum hooked up to it either.

I probably should have bought the MSD 6-BTM but I will need to learn how to program what I have.

Any help would be great.
Thanks

 

You did the right thing getting the 6AL2 programmable. I ended up getting one and love it.

Update us on your combo.
When can you lock out the advance on the dizzy? That is a must first IMHO.
What is your timing set at today?
Still 8 PSI?
Did you ever get the meth kit?
Do you have the MAP sensor hooked up?
Have you looked at the software on the PC yet?

The instructions are TERRIBLE (non-existant really) but we'll get you fixed up.

I can help you out but need to know the starting point.

 

Same combo as listed but 9 lbs. boost according to Procharger. I have a boost gauge I still need to install.
I will lock out the dizzy when I have a program to install. No vac line installed.
I think my timing is about 35, I need to verify that.
No meth kit yet, any recommended ones?
No MAP sensor, is it recommended? Bung on the collector?
I have looked at the programming but I can’t make sense of it yet.

Thanks for getting back to me. I will respond as I can.

 

The MAP sensor is a must for programming the timing. The MAP sensor tells the MSD how much boost the engine is making and the program tells the box how much timing to pull based on boost. No map, no pulled timing.

Get a 2 bar MAP if you never plan to go over 15 PSI. 3 bar if you want to go higher.

PM me your e-mail address and I can send you a curve file, but like I said it doesn't matter until you get the MAP. And you need to have the distributor locked FIRST otherwise evrything is a guessing game.

As for the kit, www.alcoholinjectionsystems.com is the way to go. Give Rodney a call.

What size blower pulley are you running? Have you had it to the track?

 

Which MAP sensor should I get? Factory style one or is there something that looks cool out there?

Pulley is 4.38"

No track time.

PM'd

 

This one: http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/23121/10002/-1?parentProductId=758144

You need the one that the MSD will plug into.

I bet you have more than 9 PSI with that pulley. I have 8 PSI at 6,000 RPM with the 4.75 pulley. Was thinking I would be around 12 with the 4.38.


E-mail on the way.

 

Great, I will pick one up. I will check back in once I get it installed.

Thanks,

 

When you lock out your timing adjust your start retard at 20* up to 600rpm. So say your locked at 34* like me when you crank over the engine it will be at 14* until it gets over 600rpm. I set my table at 1.5lbs per pound starting at 2 pounds. So my boost is maxed at 6lbs right now. My timing will be 28* then. Safe at 6 lbs. 1.5 x 4 = 6 - 34 = 28*

 

mnm, How is that build coming? Haven't seen an update in a while.

 

DONE!...I'm only running 6lbs for now. No bugs... Everything worked perfect. I just finally installed my 3rd converter. Took a couple times to get what I wanted. Also installed subframe connectors. Between the Turbos, Converter and connectors. It feels like a whole new car. With the stock GM crate and 6lbs with the 3000 stall I could break the tires loose at 20mph. I was lucky to do that from a stand still with the motor stock and stock converter. I'm already starting to put together a 383...LOL never enough! Here's some pics.

Oh and about the 6AL2...keep playing with it. I didn't understand it in the beginning also.

 

6AL2 in glove box with 3bar MAP.

 

whoops, meant 700 rwhp with the 750 carb.