[ZLP955]

Mike, I'd take a look at either the Hotchkis/Bilstein HPS1000 or Koni adjustables - I've just bought the Konis

Here's a pic of the Koni shocks, they are similar to the 'Classic' range but the valving gives a slightly better ride - came highly reccommended by a suspension shop guy I know.

 

[69z28freak]

Here's a pic of the Koni shocks, they are similar to the 'Classic' range but the valving gives a slightly better ride - came highly reccommended by a suspension shop guy I know.

Thanks Tim I will check them out.

 

[Sauron67MM]

Available from all the usual suspects, such as:
http://www.rickscamaros.com/chevrolet-chassis-service-shop-manual-1969.html
You might also find a good deal on ePay; I managed to get the Factory AIM, Fisher Body Manual, Chassis Service Manual and Factory Wiring Diagrams delivered (to Aus) for around $95

Amazon. Rarely gets mentioned for some reason. They also have many other items besides books at greater savings than other suppliers. Service Manual is cheaper than Rick's or any of the other vendors.

 

[Edgemontvillage]

I found a shifter and trans and am wondering if they would be correct for my conversion.

Mike, the shifter you are looking at ISN'T a factory 69 Camaro Hurst shifter:

- the original 3138 shifter body didn't have a stop bolt treaded in the front or the back.
- the original 5325 shifter handle is retained with wedges and not bolts so the factory handle will not work with this shifter. You may want to consider an aftermarket shifter however if you want the factory look you will not be able to achieve this easily without modifying the shifter handle.
- of what I can see of the mounting plate it's not factory correct and may position the shifter so that it may not work with the factory console.
- the reverse lever should have 3 holes, 1 to attach to the shifter rod, one to bolt to the transmission and the third attaches the linkage rod to the reverse bellcrank. The one in the picture has only 2 holes.
- original factory 3138 shifters, complete and in good condition (trans mounting plate, rods, levers and handle) sell for $500+, if restored $800++. Aftermarket Hurst shifters are valued much less.

Here is an excellent posting on how they compare (Posting #12) http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54774

 

[69z28freak]

Mike, the shifter you are looking at ISN'T a factory 69 Camaro Hurst shifter:

- the original 3138 shifter body didn't have a stop bolt treaded in the front or the back.
- the original 5325 shifter handle is retained with wedges and not bolts so the factory handle will not work with this shifter. You may want to consider an aftermarket shifter however if you want the factory look you will not be able to achieve this easily without modifying the shifter handle.
- of what I can see of the mounting plate it's not factory correct and may position the shifter so that it may not work with the factory console.
- the reverse lever should have 3 holes, 1 to attach to the shifter rod, one to bolt to the transmission and the third attaches the linkage rod to the reverse bellcrank. The one in the picture has only 2 holes.
- original factory 3138 shifters, complete and in good condition (trans mounting plate, rods, levers and handle) sell for $500+, if restored $800++. Aftermarket Hurst shifters are valued much less.

Here is an excellent posting on how they compare (Posting #12) http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54774

Thanks Lloyd perhaps an after market shifter is the way to go. I want the correct shifter lever loacted in the correct position. Thanks for the valuable info.

 

[69z28freak]

Mike, the shifter you are looking at ISN'T a factory 69 Camaro Hurst shifter:

- the original 3138 shifter body didn't have a stop bolt treaded in the front or the back.
- the original 5325 shifter handle is retained with wedges and not bolts so the factory handle will not work with this shifter. You may want to consider an aftermarket shifter however if you want the factory look you will not be able to achieve this easily without modifying the shifter handle.
- of what I can see of the mounting plate it's not factory correct and may position the shifter so that it may not work with the factory console.
- the reverse lever should have 3 holes, 1 to attach to the shifter rod, one to bolt to the transmission and the third attaches the linkage rod to the reverse bellcrank. The one in the picture has only 2 holes.
- original factory 3138 shifters, complete and in good condition (trans mounting plate, rods, levers and handle) sell for $500+, if restored $800++. Aftermarket Hurst shifters are valued much less.

Here is an excellent posting on how they compare (Posting #12) http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54774

Hey Lloyd here is an after market shifter from Heart Beat City. It does not look correct either, compared to the vintage 3138 shifter I posted. The Heart Beat City one looks like a cross between the 67 and 69 model. It also has a bolt in shifter lever. Do you know if there are any other after market shifters out there that would be more compatible and closer to original.

Thanks

Also here is the shifter from Ricks.

Camaro 4-Speed Shifter, Hurst, Round Bar, 1969
Hurst Authorized Reproduction
3128 Hurst Offset Shift Body
Round Bar "HURST" Shift Handle
Original Style Mount Brackets And Shift Linkage Sold Separately
Correct look factory shifter authorized by Hurst. When installed, this shifter works, looks and performs like the factory original. Originally, the shift handle was pressed into the shift body with shims. This shift handle is bolted into the shift body with two bolts like the new style Hurst Competition Plus shifters with the flat, rectangular handle. If you are looking for a shifter you cannot tell from original until you take the car apart and don't want to spend big money for an original, Rick's Hurst Round Bar shifter is for you!

 

[rszmjt]

Hey Lloyd here is an after market shifter from Heart Beat City. It does not look correct either, compared to the vintage 3138 shifter I posted. The Heart Beat City one looks like a cross between the 67 and 69 model. It also has a bolt in shifter lever. Do you know if there are any other after market shifters out there that would be more compatible and closer to original.

Thanks

Also here is the shifter from Ricks.

Camaro 4-Speed Shifter, Hurst, Round Bar, 1969
Hurst Authorized Reproduction
3128 Hurst Offset Shift Body
Round Bar "HURST" Shift Handle
Original Style Mount Brackets And Shift Linkage Sold Separately
Correct look factory shifter authorized by Hurst. When installed, this shifter works, looks and performs like the factory original. Originally, the shift handle was pressed into the shift body with shims. This shift handle is bolted into the shift body with two bolts like the new style Hurst Competition Plus shifters with the flat, rectangular handle. If you are looking for a shifter you cannot tell from original until you take the car apart and don't want to spend big money for an original, Rick's Hurst Round Bar shifter is for you!

Mike , Be carefull with some of those reproduction round handle shifters, I have installed a few and the upper handle is way taller, it sticks through the consol way too far up into the car, maybe the current repos have rectified this problem.
You can buy a NEW after market Hurst from Mopac in Langley, but it will have the incorrect square handle. Both the shifters shown with the bolt on handles will bulge the factory boot somewhat where the handle bolts are, it is not very evident. The aftermarket Hursts with the stops and bsgs in the arms are the way to go IMO for a driver, unless you are building a 100% numbers correct resto. Original shifters have no shifter stops and rubber anti rattle bsgs and are 40 year old parts typicaly that need restoration. The part numbers for the current after market Hurst are -
Shifter Body - 391-7438 $243.95 on Summits site
Install kit - 373-7437, this gives you the brkt/rods/tags/bolts/bushings etc etc. $133.95 on Summits site. This is for 69 style bolt on tags, the trans you posted has 68 tags, I think that hurst gives you stud adaptors now in the current install kit, if not they are available from Hurst. Mopaxcs price should be very close to Summits price.

 

[69z28freak]

Mike , Be carefull with some of those reproduction round handle shifters, I have installed a few and the upper handle is way taller, it sticks through the consol way too far up into the car, maybe the current repos have rectified this problem.
You can buy a NEW after market Hurst from Mopac in Langley, but it will have the incorrect square handle. Both the shifters shown with the bolt on handles will bulge the factory boot somewhat where the handle bolts are, it is not very evident. The aftermarket Hursts with the stops and bsgs in the arms are the way to go IMO for a driver, unless you are building a 100% numbers correct resto. Original shifters have no shifter stops and rubber anti rattle bsgs and are 40 year old parts typicaly that need restoration. The part numbers for the current after market Hurst are -
Shifter Body - 391-7438 $243.95 on SummiCcfts site
Install kit - 373-7437, this gives you the brkt/rods/tags/bolts/bushings etc etc. $133.95 on Summits site. This is for 69 style bolt on tags, the trans you posted has 68 tags, I think that hurst gives you stud adaptors now in the current install kit, if not they are available from Hurst. Mopaxcs price should be very close to Summits price.

Thanks mike that is great info. I don't want to spend good money on any product to be disappointed. The shifter is such a main component, and I only want to install it once and have it work correctly. I will call mopac. I just want to make sure that all the components are matched and function smoothly and make driving enjoyable, not a chore or a curse!

 

[69z28freak]

Mike , Be carefull with some of those reproduction round handle shifters, I have installed a few and the upper handle is way taller, it sticks through the consol way too far up into the car, maybe the current repos have rectified this problem.
You can buy a NEW after market Hurst from Mopac in Langley, but it will have the incorrect square handle. Both the shifters shown with the bolt on handles will bulge the factory boot somewhat where the handle bolts are, it is not very evident. The aftermarket Hursts with the stops and bsgs in the arms are the way to go IMO for a driver, unless you are building a 100% numbers correct resto. Original shifters have no shifter stops and rubber anti rattle bsgs and are 40 year old parts typicaly that need restoration. The part numbers for the current after market Hurst are -
Shifter Body - 391-7438 $243.95 on Summits site
Install kit - 373-7437, this gives you the brkt/rods/tags/bolts/bushings etc etc. $133.95 on Summits site. This is for 69 style bolt on tags, the trans you posted has 68 tags, I think that hurst gives you stud adaptors now in the current install kit, if not they are available from Hurst. Mopaxcs price should be very close to Summits price.

Hey Mike here is a picture of the Summit unit which looks a bit different that the others I posted in my other thread "Correct Hurst Shifter for 69Z28?". Which is the correct shifter lever for the 69 Z28. I have seen both posted as being correct.

 

[rszmjt]

Hey Mike here is a picture of the Summit unit which looks a bit different that the others I posted in my other thread "Correct Hurst Shifter for 69Z28?". Which is the correct shifter lever for the 69 Z28. I have seen both posted as being correct.

That is the correct shifter, if it is 391-7438. Any difference might be because of the angle picture was taken, or the vendor used a generic picture. It does however have a square upper bar, originals have a round bar. White Ball is wrong for 69 Z28 originality, but you can use a repo Chrome Ball, it threads rite onto that shifter. If you want round bar you have to buy from Ricks or another vendor.

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-4-speed-shifter-hurst-round-bar-1969.html

Here is the correct round bar shifter handle -

http://www.heartbeatcitycamaro.com/store/product/20641/Camaro-Hurst-shifter-handle-rechromed-69/

You can use this and the above round bar handle to convert the aftermarket hurst to round bar, that way EVERYTHING is new.-

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-C...230689205536?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b625ed20

Heres the correct Ball for a consol application-

http://www.rickscamaros.com/camaro-...-transmission-chrome-ball-3-8-thread-for-cars-with-hurst-shifter-1969-1981.html

 

[69z28freak]

Thanks Mike. The Hurst catalog shows just a shifter body for sale. The shifter body, with the shifter handle body would work great. I will also need the shifter rods and mounting plate to the trans as well as shifter boot. I pretty well need the entire set up, minus a shifter handle as I have access to an original handle.

 

[rszmjt]

Thanks Mike. The Hurst catalog shows just a shifter body for sale. The shifter body, with the shifter handle body would work great. I will also need the shifter rods and mounting plate to the trans as well as shifter boot. I pretty well need the entire set up, minus a shifter handle as I have access to an original handle.

The original handle will not fit, unless you drill it or use this -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-C...230689205536?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b625ed20

Here is the CORRECT FACTORY REPO INSTALL kit -

http://www.drclassic.com/catalog/Camaro/Transmission/Z20028.html

 

[69z28freak]

The original handle will not fit, unless you drill it or use this -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-C...230689205536?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35b625ed20

Here is the CORRECT FACTORY REPO INSTALL kit -

http://www.drclassic.com/catalog/Camaro/Transmission/Z20028.html

Thanks Mike that is exactly what I need.

 

[69z28freak]

Here is a revised list of parts. I am sure I am still missing stuff. This list will be over 100 items by the time I am done. I had no idea when I started that I would require so many parts to complete this project. The next phase may not include all of these parts as I may have to do the drive train conversion on several phases. The winter phase will be dictated by the Final costs. Now knowing how much just a drive train conversion costs I can only image a full frame off or building a car from scratch would cost. It is a scary thought. Sometimes it seems to me when I see cars listed for sale that are fully restored and they cost less than 50K, I wonder how that is possible. However in this market I would say that it is a far better deal to buy a restored car than to restore one. As the car market continues to go down, unfortunatly it seems like the cost to restore them is going up. Very important to manage ones project accordingly. I hope I succeed! If anyone has any parts they want to unload at a fair price from the list or any advice how not to loose my shirt, feel free to chime in. :waving: :clonk: :wacko:

1 12 Bolt Diff BU 373
2 12 Bolt Diff BU 373 Rebuild
3 Accelerator linkage
4 Alternator
5 Alternator Belt
6 Alternator Bracket Kit
7 Alternator Pulley
8 Alternator rebuild
9 Battery Cable Negative
10 Battery Cable Positive
11 Battery Y55 45 Amp Delco - Late side post Y77
12 Bolt Kit AMK
13 Brake Booster Drum 3972
14 Brake hoses
15 Carb-Rebuild Holley 780 CFM 4053 List
16 Clutch & brake Pedal Assembly with new pads
17 Clutch Flywheel
18 Clutch Fork & Throwout Bearing
19 Clutch Linkage
20 Clutch/Presure Plate
21 Coil
22 Console Wiring Harnesses
23 Console with Gauges & shifter plate
24 Cowl Air Cleaner & Cowl Induction System Kit
25 Cowl Air cleaner Cowl Top & Bottom
26 Cowl Air Cleaner Extension
27 Cowl Air Cleaner Filter
28 Cowl Hood flapper assembly & Solenoid Actuator
29 Crank Pulley Deep Groove
30 Disc Brake Conversion Kit
31 Disc Brake Line Conversion Kit
32 Distributor
33 Drive Shaft, cut balanced, blasted & clear coated
34 Engine LT1 350, 375 HP, 140 Cam, 1182 Crank, 492 Heads
35 Engine Frame Mounts
36 Engine Motor Mounts
37 Exhaust Chambered System
38 Exhaust hangers
39 Exhaust Tips
40 Front Coil Springs
41 Front Lower Ball Joint Kit
42 Front Shocks
43 Front Upper Ball Joint Kit
44 Fuel pump
45 Headers
46 Hose Clamp Kit
47 Intake Winters Factory
48 M 20 Transmission 7 bolt side panel
49 M 20 Transmission Rebuild Kit
50 Master Cylinder BS/CT
51 Motor Oil
52 New Gas tank, with Straps, Sending unit & Pads
53 Power Steering Belt
54 Power Steering Box Close Ratio
55 Power Steering Column
56 Power Steering Gear Box Close Ratio
57 Power Steering Pulley
58 Power Steering Pump
59 Rad 4 core-re core
60 Rad Fan 7 Blade
61 Rad Fan Clutch Assembly
62 Rad Hose Lower
63 Rad Hose Upper
64 Radiator Fan Shroud
65 Rear Axel Brake lines
66 Rear Brake Drums
67 Rear Brake Proportioning valve
68 Rear Drum Backing Plate
69 Rear Drum Backing Plate
70 Rear Drum Brake Kit
71 Rear Leaf Spring Install Kit
72 Rear Leaf Spring Shackles
73 Rear Leaf Springs (4 Leafs)
74 Rear Shocks
75 Rear Sway Bar
76 Reverse Lock Out Assembley
77 Shifter boot
78 Shifter Handle Adapter
79 Shifter Linkage & Mounting Bracket
80 Shifter Mounting Bracket
81 Shifter Unit
82 Spark Plug Wires
83 Spark Plugs
84 Starter
85 Tachometer
86 Throttle Rod Assembly
87 Transmission Bell Housing 403
88 Valve Covers
89 Water Pump
90 Water Pump Pulley

 

[ZLP955]

Mike,
Have you costed out this list? Some of the items are going to be very expensive if you go after original part # and date codes (like 837 alternator and 480 distributor), I haven't spent any time on it but would guess you'd be up for $15-20k on the basis of that list. Make sure you have a couple beers on standby when you get to the bottom line.....
Just a couple of observations:
Item 59, z/28 rad was 21" 3 core.
Item 75, rear sway bar not factory fitted item.
Items 53-58, power steering setup - you will need the delivery and return hydraulic hoses for the pump, and you will need a pitman arm to suit (unless you already have one)

 

[Sauron67MM]

I had no idea when I started that I would require so many parts to complete this project.Sometimes it seems to me when I see cars listed for sale that are fully restored and they cost less than 50K, I wonder how that is possible. However in this market I would say that it is a far better deal to buy a restored car than to restore one. If anyone has any parts they want to unload at a fair price from the list or any advice how not to loose my shirt, feel free to chime in. :waving: :clonk: :wacko:

You must have, it's complete conversion and resto. Shopping for parts reduces cost. If you don't have contacts, or cannot get parts cheaply or at a fair price, you will have to crack open your wallet. People rarely give away valuable "correct" parts. Often, people can build cars for less than others because of years of accumulation, they do all the work themselves, and/or have an extensive network. You're the one in charge of finances. Perhaps buy another complete car(s) you can scavenge and sell off the carcass(es), delay the build and find deals, build it quickly and spend all the coin, or just buy the car you want already done. People do indeed buy quality authentic correct cars for what you will have into this project, and sometimes for less.

If you are married to this car due to sentiment, then money is of no consequence and you will happily take it on the chin.

 

[69z28freak]

Mike,
Have you costed out this list? Some of the items are going to be very expensive if you go after original part # and date codes (like 837 alternator and 480 distributor), I haven't spent any time on it but would guess you'd be up for $15-20k on the basis of that list. Make sure you have a couple beers on standby when you get to the bottom line.....
Just a couple of observations:
Item 59, z/28 rad was 21" 3 core.
Item 75, rear sway bar not factory fitted item.
Items 53-58, power steering setup - you will need the delivery and return hydraulic hoses for the pump, and you will need a pitman arm to suit (unless you already have one)

Thanks Tim. I guess the rear sway bar is a 1970 thing. I was going to re core my original harrison rad. I currently have power steering but was going to upgrade to the close ratio unit.

Some parts I have linned up used, some I hope to find used and some I may have to buy after market.

The spreadsheet I made also has a price list column and it is quiet scary. (Insert Beer Here! :beers I am going to have to get creative and start editing or find better deals!

 

[69z28freak]

You must have, it's complete conversion and resto. Shopping for parts reduces cost. If you don't have contacts, or cannot get parts cheaply or at a fair price, you will have to crack open your wallet. People rarely give away valuable "correct" parts. Often, people can build cars for less than others because of years of accumulation, they do all the work themselves, and/or have an extensive network. You're the one in charge of finances. Perhaps buy another complete car(s) you can scavenge and sell off the carcass(es), delay the build and find deals, build it quickly and spend all the coin, or just buy the car you want already done. People do indeed buy quality authentic correct cars for what you will have into this project, and sometimes for less.

If you are married to this car due to sentiment, then money is of no consequence and you will happily take it on the chin.

Thanks Scott, advice appreciated. I am not attached to the car, but attched to not spending more than I can afford for a 69 Z 28. I am working on the list to see if I can get some deals on some parts. The list I prepared was for a complete drive train conversion. I have costed out all the parts at the worst case scenario using Heart Beat City as a costing guide line. So far some guys have come forward with some parts. As you know I kind of did this project backwards and did the body work first. The thought has crossed my mind to buy a real z many times. I was loooking for the longest time and when I could not find one I decided to go this route. Right now I am into my car for about 10K. I was hoping to complete the drive train conversion for 10K. That would give me a pretty nice little clone for around 20K, that would be virtually brand new for the most part or rebuilt at the minimum. I think that if I can build my car for that much I will not have to take it on the chin. However the parts list is currently over 15K as it sits, so I either have to start dropping items or find some pretty good deals. The search continues and hopefully old Santa has a few parts up his sleeve that he will slip into Grandma's old stalking.

Much like I didn't know how much all the parts would cost until I added them up, I had no idea how much work would go into to shopping for these parts. Now I know why it can take so long to build/restore a car. That is why I don't want to start the conversion until I have all of the parts on hand. Hopefully all of this work can be done in 4 weeks. That would be the goal.

If you know of where I can find a decent 69 Z 28 for 20-25K, please let me know as I have not been able to find one.

 

[Sauron67MM]

If you know of where I can find a decent 69 Z 28 for 20-25K, please let me know as I have not been able to find one.

You won't. If you are paying someone to do all the work on this car plus parts for cloning, buying a Z would be an option.

 

[69z28freak]

You won't. If you are paying someone to do all the work on this car plus parts for cloning, buying a Z would be an option.

I am doing the work with friends. I just need the parts. Top end of the budget is 25K all in. That is why I am going the clone route. What kind of a real 69 Z 28 can I get for 25K. Finding a decent Z will probably cost 50K. No point in buying one that is not documented. Might as well stick with a clone in that case. 25K for a documented Z would be a project probably requiring another 25K at least. That's my hunch!