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Discussion starter · #281 ·
The parts are looking incredible! Nice job on the prep and painting!:thumbsup: Yes, those parts look all original except for maybe that bumper bracket that has a large "R" stamped on it. That looks like a repro to me. (here come the chimers)...:rolleyes:

I can't wait to see your final product there, all assembled. You too I bet. It will look awesome. You may not want to drive it after it's so clean. Make sure to replace any gaskets on the engine or tranny that would contribute a leak possibly. It's a good time to now that it's all apart and accessible anyway. Just a thought/idea. I don't want to put a speedbump in your progress rate (incredible by the way)... but I thought I would mention it.

Thanks Todd. I am going to post more pictures of parts with identification marks so I can find out just how original this car is. So far the car has zero leaks so I am not sure which seals and gaskets you are referring to. So far the only gasket I need to replace is the thermostat gasket, as that is the only part that has come off the motor that has a gasket. On Monday I will assemble all of the motor parts and start the car up again to make sure that it still works and I didn't screw anything up. Then I will mount the rad support and attach all the parts to that. So far it has taken me twice as long as I planned and I t wil probably take 3 times as long to finish it. If I am lucky that is!
 
Discussion starter · #282 ·
hey mike, looks great, just read all the posts...doing a great job....can't wait to see the finished product....i have a brand new wiper motor ground ring with rubber mount, let me now if you would like, i can send it over from the island...:thumbsup:
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Hey Mike that is awesome news. I would love that part. Send me a PM and I will take it for sure. I might go to Vic to visit my daughter next weekend, so I might be able to pick it up. I love this website. Nothing but great help and support here for sure!
 
Thanks Todd. I am going to post more pictures of parts with identification marks so I can find out just how original this car is. So far the car has zero leaks so I am not sure which seals and gaskets you are referring to. So far the only gasket I need to replace is the thermostat gasket, as that is the only part that has come off the motor that has a gasket. On Monday I will assemble all of the motor parts and start the car up again to make sure that it still works and I didn't screw anything up. Then I will mount the rad support and attach all the parts to that. So far it has taken me twice as long as I planned and I t wil probably take 3 times as long to finish it. If I am lucky that is!

I was referring to the oil pan gasket, intake manifold gasket, rear main seal, front pump seal on the tranny, dipstick o-ring on the tranny, or the valve cover gasket. That's great that it was leak-free though. Less downtime! :yes: :thumbsup:

I am looking forward to this weekend. More progress! :hurray:
 
Discussion starter · #284 ·
After all your hard work I would paint the car silver and be done with it. You like it the market likes it and the car will like. Just think next year when you put that BB in it it will run faster and better in Cortez Silver. Shoot some PPG Omni and then Concept 2002. You will save a bit on the Omni and it is still a very good product. The primer and top coat are the most important. Shoot 3 coats of clear instead of 4 or 5 will save a bit as well. If you do go with white you need not clear coat as it is not necessary with a solid color. Then go with PPG. I have done both. My Hugger Orange car was painted in 1990 with Dupont Centari and it still looks great and this 38K all original RSSS sat outside for a year and was my daily driver for that year and now has 54K miles, 24 options Calif car that is all original except paint, carpet, tires shocks and exhaust. They were meant to drive and enjoy. Remember they are just a cars and they were 250,000+ built and they are all over the place, real or not, who cares. I have had the big buck ones and the plain janes. Sometimes we get carried away, me too sometimes and then we have to step back and do a reality check. I like all 4 of my current 69's but my 32nd Camaro is 100% not original and I love it and now that it is almost done we might just take it to the track and race it!!!! Just an old Camaro guy talkin!!

Thanks Bruce you read my mind perfectly. This car will be 100% driver and there will most likely be another motor going in it at some point. This is a very low buck partial resto because I don't want to sink a pile of money into a car that will be driven everyday. If I had a car that was too nice, it would seriously limit my ability to drive it that often, because I would be too worried about preserving it. The only thing I want to preserve is the thrill factor, and I love the stories and threads of the cars that are driven. No disrespect to the trailer queens and super rare high end collerctor cars and show cars and all. I am with you guys that I just think these cars were created to be driven and enjoyed as often as possible. However for the next little while I will be driving one sweet little six that I know is going to threaten the streets and make people quake in there boots. I already know that someone will say to me. "Start that thing up and lets' see what she's got". And I will reply " it is running" Thats how quiet the six is. Its as smooth as glass and slicker than butter. I feel like I am part of a minority. I wonder how many guys out there actually have six cylinder cars. I assume that if the do, they are all original.
 
Discussion starter · #286 ·
What makes you think the bumper brackets marked L & R are aftermarket?
Hey Scott how durable should the SEM Trim Black be? I just shot it and it seems to scratch easily. Just curious if I sprayed enough or I may have missed soemthing or done something wrong. perhaps it just needs more time to dry. I love the look the color tone looks perfect. I am just hoping it is not a cosmetic product and that it will have some durability.

We are currently going through a water based compliance converstion up here. I am not sure if it is in the states as well. I have been trying to find the right paint for the air cleaner and heater cover and some pullys, but so far no luck. I only have a few parts to paint and buying the flattening agent seems to be expensive. I am curious if I can spray boms anothr product on top of the trim black or clear it. I am pretty sure that if I do clear it that it will need a flattening agent to get the right texture. I don't need it to be perfect, but I find the regular full gloss and clear to be too much for those parts. Looking for an inexpensive solution.
 
Discussion starter · #287 ·
DAY EIGHTEEN PROGRESS

Not much to report today. Just starting to get organised for the assmbly of the motor, rad support and all of the parts that mount on it. Probably the inner fenders as well.

Here are a few more pictures of some parts. Just trying to determine how original my car is.

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I got a few new parts today. A new rear package tray, a subframe bushing kit and a front end bolt kit. I have all of the original bolts and nuts, but they are in rough shape, so I thought it would make more sense to use new stuff. We will find out when the assembly starts next week. Once all of the loose parts are back on the car, I am going to strip the roof, drivers quarter and doors, to see what evil lurks below. I amy have to call in a afavour from Master Blaster, who knows!

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SEM will get harder, you just shot it, of course it will scratch. It's not fully cured yet. You answered your own question in your statement. It does not dry to a porcelain hardness in a couple days. It's paint, not pottery. Neither will the clear you shoot on your exterior, you will be able to scratch that too right after. Cooking it in their booth or under their infrared lamps will dry it faster. I addressed the differences in catylized and non-catylized paints already. And that shop owner should as well. Is he explaining anything about paint to you? If you don't think paint scratches before it's fully cured, you'll be upset right after your car is shot. Or paint it black instead of silver and drag your fingernail on it 48 hours later.

I know about the waterborne. Dec 19th up there isn't it? That's only basecoat, you will still be using low VOC clears. No more DBC as I stated in one of your other threads. I'm not on your dirt and can't help you with your changing product limitations. Your jobber can and the shop owner. Send Crazy Canuck a PM here or at Team Chevelle. He's up there and has been shooting Sikkens for 26 years. He built that Dynacorn in his thread. If no one at that shop or your jobber is capable of helping you matching sheens, you have to do it on your own. Or just live with the 30% for now. I don't know of any ready to shoot inexpensive product that is 60% gloss. I make my own. I'll bet you can't buy lacquer up there either, I can for now. Yes products are expensive and time required to do these jobs is often underestimated also. Learning anything? Thought so. The crush of time and money should have your head spinning after this job is done.
 
Discussion starter · #289 · (Edited)
SEM will get harder, you just shot it, of course it will scratch. It's not fully cured yet. You answered your own question in your statement. It does not dry to a porcelain hardness in a couple days. It's paint, not pottery. Neither will the clear you shoot on your exterior, you will be able to scratch that too right after. Cooking it in their booth or under their infrared lamps will dry it faster. I addressed the differences in catylized and non-catylized paints already. And that shop owner should as well. Is he explaining anything about paint to you? If you don't think paint scratches before it's fully cured, you'll be upset right after your car is shot. Or paint it black instead of silver and drag your fingernail on it 48 hours later.

I know about the waterborne. Dec 19th up there isn't it? That's only basecoat, you will still be using low VOC clears. No more DBC as I stated in one of your other threads. I'm not on your dirt and can't help you with your changing product limitations. Your jobber can and the shop owner. Send Crazy Canuck a PM here or at Team Chevelle. He's up there and has been shooting Sikkens for 26 years. He built that Dynacorn in his thread. If no one at that shop or your jobber is capable of helping you matching sheens, you have to do it on your own. Or just live with the 30% for now. I don't know of any ready to shoot inexpensive product that is 60% gloss. I make my own. I'll bet you can't buy lacquer up there either, I can for now. Yes products are expensive and time required to do these jobs is often underestimated also. Learning anything? Thought so. The crush of time and money should have your head spinning after this job is done.
Thanks Scott very helpfull as always. I am spinning everyday from the amount of extra prep, time and cost. I was way under prepared for all of it. Just trying to keep up right now, stay sane and get the job completed. I have a whole new respect for those who ahve done this before or do it for a living. A real eye opener for sure.
 
Discussion starter · #291 ·
Alternator date code pics?
Ah yes I think you are referrring to the other stamping on the side. I forgot to shoot that angle. I will post on Monday. So far from what I have seen a lot of this car appears to be original. Kind of refreshing for a change. I am gaining a lot more respect for original cars than I previously had.
 
Discussion starter · #292 ·
DAY NINETEEN PROGRESS

A bit of progress today. Starting to re-assemble the engine and soon to hang the rad support and all the parts that mount onto it. Once that is done, strip the paint off the car and prep for paint. I am sure I am doing everything backwards, but this is just how it ended up working out for various reasons.

Look at that evil fire breathing six banger! Who wants to race?

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The one downside I am learning about doing a resto in this type of shop enviroment is that I get all of the parts prepped and painted and they looks great, but then they get covered in dust, because evertything happens in one big room. So after I get my engine, firewall and subframe complete I have to bag it to keep the dust off as I will be sanding the body and prepping for paint.
 
Mike-- I must say.... Your engine compartment is looking SWEET! Very nice detail work there.:thumbsup: I always wanted to make my '68 6-cyl look like that. Very nice and clean. It really makes it POP when you pay close attention to all of the different paint codes and sheens. We're lucky to have great people on here to help guide us along in the right direction when needed. Really sweet engine bay there!:yes:
 
Discussion starter · #294 ·
Mike-- I must say.... Your engine compartment is looking SWEET! Very nice detail work there.:thumbsup: I always wanted to make my '68 6-cyl look like that. Very nice and clean. It really makes it POP when you pay close attention to all of the different paint codes and sheens. We're lucky to have great people on here to help guide us along in the right direction when needed. Really sweet engine bay there!:yes:
Thanks Todd. I hope to have the engine bay finished tomorrow and start the car up. I didn't take any pictures today. I was doing small stuff like hood hinges, wiper motor, rad support, head light buckets etc. Hopefully it will fire right up. I hope I got all my notes right for the wiring harness.

You are right about the help. So far Scott has been bang on with his advice and the car is looking very stock, which is what I was going for. No chrome on this build for me yet. At least as long as I have the six in there it will appear correct and have all original/stock. It will also be ready for another motor and I won't have to much work to do when and if I drop it in.

I won't know about the exterior color until we strip the paint and Don will let me know what he thinks. It is going to depend on how much work is required. You never know what is under paint, even if it looks good. I hope to start stripping by Friday.
 
Wow eh ! Looks sharp Mike....some mighty fine work in relatively a short amount of time.. impressive.:thumbsup: Curious what you're protecting the alternator with ? clearcoat or ??

Just to clarify, that ain't just a "6-banger" ya know...it's a Turbo-Thrift...and a purdy one at that.:yes: Sure would make for an economical, classy driver as it is. Maybe the right cam, exhaust and some carb work, would make Gramma feel like she's wearin' some new underpants !
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Speakin' of Gramma... think maybe she should be the first to go for a ride ?? Prolly have tears of joy to see her old cruiser like new again. :) Not sure what she'd think of Z-stripes tho....
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Ah, screw it !....give 'er a ride after ya get the Big Block in place.:D
 
Yea! Mike's right. You are making the right choice choosing to paint it silver. :yes: ..........;):D Go for it!

SIL-VER!:hurray: SIL-VER! :hurray: SIL-VER!:hurray: (No pressure)
 
Discussion starter · #298 ·
Yea! Mike's right. You are making the right choice choosing to paint it silver. :yes: ..........;):D Go for it!

SIL-VER!:hurray: SIL-VER! :hurray: SIL-VER!:hurray: (No pressure)
Thanks Todd. I found a sweet 427. I will post some pics. I hope I can go Silver. If not White with Black Z-28 Stripes.
 
Discussion starter · #299 ·
UPDATE*****

Looks like I have found a 427 for the car. I will get all of the specs and post it for verification. It is a 1969 block fresh rebuilt never started with a 780 Holly. Let me know what you think.

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